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SWOH | The PTO shaft on our 4840 bent and the new shafts sub out to a different shaft...to put the new shaft in we have to machine out the housing so the race for the front bearing will fit in the housing. Does anybody know where I might find a used shaft, parts number is R58001 and the new sub number is RE238222. I need a used R58001. Apparently they are a popular item because every salvage yard we've called said they know exactly what we're talking about and they've sold lots of shafts and don't have any. So I need to broaden my search outside of Ohio and Indiana. Thanks for any info. |
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| You would be better off doing the update. That was a common problem back then with the high horse power PTO work back then. I think the new shaft uses tapered roller bearings so there isn't any endplay in the shaft. Its been a long time so my memory is a little fuzzy on this but I do recall the new shaft was quite a bit better. |
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SWOH | New shaft does use roller bearings. Is it possible to ream the housing out rather than take the whole thing back apart to take the housing somewhere to get it machined?
Edit: sorry, new shaft uses tapered bearings not roller bearings. Old shaft uses roller bearings.
Edited by boa628 1/26/2013 07:49
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ECMN | Did you try Abilene Machine? Here is another one Don's Tractor Salvage 1997 Pony Express Hwy Beattie, KS 66406 (785) 353-2581. |
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West Central Iowa | boa628 - 1/25/2013 18:01
New shaft does use roller bearings. Is it possible to ream the housing out rather than take the whole thing back apart to take the housing somewhere to get it machined?
An on site boring service could do it with the housing in the tractor..........but are you aware that you have to double split the tractor just to R & R the PTO shaft? By the time you do both of the splits, you are not far from having the clutch housing out of the tractor. Just for reference, here is a link to a bore repair service from Western Iowa.......I know they are too far away to of be any help for your location.
http://www.midwestbore.com/
How bent is the shaft.......have you tried to straighten it? I have straightened a few of the 46 & 48 shafts using a dial indicator and a bottle jack on the drawbar support. If you are patient, you can get them darn close. It takes a little time but is WAY faster then tearing the tractor down.
edit to add forgotten link
Edited by pirlbeck 1/25/2013 19:55
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SWOH | Thanks we'll see what they got. |
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SWOH | We already split it twice, we were just getting ready to slide the new shaft in when we noticed it was different and after doing a little reading in the instructions (should've read them all the way through first I guess) we found out what we have to do. Our shop guy worked for Deere in the late 70's and early 80's and had changed out shafts before on 4840's and he didn't know they subbed out the shafts on them. This deal kind of threw him for a loop. He knew there was a serial number break and we had the old style shaft but wasn't expecting the new shaft to be different. It wouldn't be that hard to take the clutch housing back off the tractor but he wants to see if we can find a used shaft that fits or see if we can ream it out without taking it off first. The shaft has a pretty good bend in it. If it's not straightened back perfect will it constantly eat the seals up? Thanks for the advice, we're just trying to find out what the options are at this point.
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Medora, IL | Try Cook Tractor in Germantown, IL |
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West Central Iowa | It would have to be bent a fair amount to take the seal out........enough that it would have a wobble in it and a vibration. The ones I straighten, I was able to get within a couple of thousands of an inch.... probably as straight or straighter then they came from the factory.
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Need a PTO shaft for a '79 4840....
