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SW Michigan | How did you do it? I have a real nice 42x76 that was built in 1990 for livestock, its 100 percent insulated already has heat ect... problem is it only has 10ft eves, its all white steel inside and looks like new. I'd like to turn it into a shop, but its got to go up at least 8 or 10 feet. I had a house mover look at it and he told me they set up inside and shove the barn stright up suck the poles out of the ground. take it up to height and then you put new poles cut to length back down the holes and attach. I dont know if I like that idea. What about a poured wall and set the barn on that? or cut all the poles the same height and build a new wall and attach the barn that way. They want about 13,000 just to raise it. then of course you have everything else on top of that to finish it back out, including a big door. I dont know, Its got to be way cheaper than a new shop. (brother wants a new shop) What do you guys think?? |
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East Central MN | Friend of mine did it with bin jacks |
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southern ohio | done it with a covered feed shed one time. cut all poles took loader tractors and lifted it to wanted height. then put 2x6 on all four sides and put bolts thru boards and post to secure it. had a lot of movement after so i x braced it and every thing is tight now. wind storm this year ripped roof off barn next to it but didn't damage the feed shed at all so its still strong |
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Centralia, MO | Just the opinion of a non-engineer but I think raising it 8 to 10 feet would be dicey. The building is not engineered for the extra wind load. Seems to me you would have to add a lot of structure. I think you could maybe stand to lift it 2 to 4 feet which would make room for all but the tallest equipment. |
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Westside | What if you added a small taller shop to the side of this building for your big stuff and use old building for office, parts , drill press, etc.
if you have land area. Risky and costly to go higher with your building, not that it can't be done. |
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EC IA | Had a neighbor just down the road do that with a shed, only add 4 ft or so, he said he woulda been better off building a new shop, or at least it would have cost the same. He did have to add insulation and finish the inside to make it a shop. |
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Maryland | Wonder if you jacked it up and put a poured wall for the bottom 4 feet of so. I would think it would be like sitting on a foundation. Probably not the cheapest, but pretty strong. |
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central - east central Minnesota - | Bigboyfloyd - 1/3/2013 20:07How did you do it? I have a real nice 42x76 that was built in 1990 for livestock, its 100 percent insulated already has heat ect... problem is it only has 10ft eves, its all white steel inside and looks like new. I'd like to turn it into a shop, but its got to go up at least 8 or 10 feet. I had a house mover look at it and he told me they set up inside and shove the barn stright up suck the poles out of the ground. take it up to height and then you put new poles cut to length back down the holes and attach. I dont know if I like that idea. What about a poured wall and set the barn on that? or cut all the poles the same height and build a new wall and attach the barn that way. They want about 13,000 just to raise it. then of course you have everything else on top of that to finish it back out, including a big door. I dont know, Its got to be way cheaper than a new shop. (brother wants a new shop) What do you guys think?? A couple considerations . . . The insulation is likly shot - mice and condensation ......The inside and outside sheeting is too short, when lifted . . . .I would consider demoing it and saving material, then starting from scratch, doing it right. You for sure have truss's for the new shop and some lining steel for the inside, with new insulation, where it needs to be. If you have time, you will save considerable amount of money demoing your self and setting up for some one to build the new one.
Edited by iseedit 1/4/2013 07:13
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| My stepson did that a few years ago for his business but I don't recall now if it was a frame or pole building, I think it was a frame wall. I will try to remember to question him about it and post back. I know he did pretty much over a weekend. I recall on the Successful Farming Machinery show they featured one that was an old hog building that as I remember it they made frame walls on the floor and then raised the roof and then stood the walls up. Seems like it was around 200 foot long and they did it in two sections I think. It seems like it was in Missouri. |
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Sac & Story county IA | I raised up a building 9 feet. It was an extremely strong building to start with or I probably wouldn't have messed with it. 2x6 studs, sheeted outside of studs and inside. Every 10 feet the stud is a 4x6. We raised it up on 6 sets of 12 inch piling. The pilings outside of the building were set in holes 3x3x3 and filled with concrete. Those structures are part of the foundation/wall, now. The wall below the existing building is 10 inch thick poured concrete with double curtain rebar.
The tough part was keeping the building secure for 3 weeks while the walls were built.
Insurance guys acted like I wanted to insure a house on the moon.
It involved drilling 400 5/8 inch holes in 3/8 thick steel with a hand drill.
Edited by E718 1/4/2013 08:15
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central PA | E718, that was some project. You obviously are not shy to work. How big was your original building and how did you raise it. |
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Sac & Story county IA | 30 x 60
Forklift at 6 points around the building. 3 inches up, block it. Then, on the next 3 inch lift, move the brackets up 6 inches.
It wants to get real unstable up there.
My kids were about 14 15 at the time. We were very slow and deliberate. They WERE going home with all 10 fingers after the job. Safety was #1.
Grader man going by while we were doing it told me "if there is a tornado, I know where I am going to hide." |
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NW Iowa | I raised a hog building 12 feet to make a shop out of it. It was a 36 X 62 fully insulated. I filled the pits with sand and gravel and let them settle for 3 years before I poured the floor. The walls were laminated 2x6 posts that had been set on a foundation with 2x6 nailers in between the posts held with joist hangers. I cut 2' of 2x6 off on side of the post and 4' off the other side and spliced in. The 2x6 nailers on edge with the joist hangers make for a very strong wall, but I am adding lean to's on the side for cold storage and to alleviate the wind load on the side walls. The tin, insulation, and liner on the walls all needed to be replaced. If you plan on doing most of the work yourself, I think it might be worthwhile. At $13000, I think you will be ahead starting from scratch. It cost a little over $3000 to have mine raised by a pro during the off season. He just got it in the air. I was responsible for everything else. It is VERY difficult to keep the stucture secure while it's in the air. |
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New Brunswick, Canada | Home built pole barns unless done to ag extension plans are normally underdesigned for wind. They use the length of pole in the ground to resist the wind loads on the building. Going taller increases the wind load. Cutting them or splicing weakens them. Setting them on a slab completely undoes their purpose of being in the ground meaning you have to add sheathing or x bracing and struts up into the rafters.
You can do a lot of work in a 10 ft tall shop. Maybe pour a big apron for the big stuff out front? |
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candor ny | Wouldn't it be easier to pull the roof and run a clear span higher pitched roof to get the height in the center at least |
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SW Ohio | a few explanations..
56X56 with one end 16' wide already tall, rest short
Was a dairy freestall barn for a long time, concrete around posts almost since the beginning.
Did not even empty it all the way, notice baler is still inside during move, extra trusses are for future project
You can never have too many braces, several failed and caused a few missing heartbeats, also do not do when windy!!
About four foot total raise, just enough to match the tall part, went from not being able to get 4020 with rops inside to now packed full of tractors and combine and stuff.
Took the low budget route and used inventory only, no new stuff purchased except for the new 8' poles. That little skylight at the top of west wall sure lets in a lot of light, and made using orphan tin a little easier. Only cost was time, about a week off and on for me and one day for the lift.
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Anyone ever rasied a pole barn?
