AgTalk Home
AgTalk Home
Search Forums | Classifieds (130) | Skins | Language
You are logged in as a guest. ( logon | register )

1910 JD air cart questions
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
View previous thread :: View next thread
   Forums List -> Machinery TalkMessage format
 
mennoboy
Posted 12/30/2012 16:19 (#2786152)
Subject: 1910 JD air cart questions


Rivers, MB
Have bought a new to us JD drill w/ 430 bu 1910 cart. Few questions as we don't have it home yet with the manuals but am thinking ahead to spring.

1. Rollers - what rollers do we need to seed canola, wheat, oats, peas and sunflowers and some starter fertilizer. Rates would be as follows:
wheat - 120 lb/ac
oats - 3 bu/ac (135-150 lb/ac)
canola - 5 lb/ac
peas - 3 bu/ac (180 lb/ac)
sunflowers - 3-4 lb/ac (25 000 plants/ac)
starter fertiilzer - 40-100 lb/ac
ESN (w/ a few crops) - 100-200 lb/ac

2. calibration / monitor use (using the brown/orginal display) - it has the power calibration
Once you've calibrated a certain lot of seed or blend of fert, does it give you a calibration # that you can re-enter into the monitor the next time you use that product so that you don't have to re-calibrate every tank every time. We sometimes will switch from seeding wheat to canola to peas to oats to wheat and then back to canola.

How close is the calibration? Once its calibrated and then set to 120 lb/ac (for wheat as an example), will it actually meter out 120lb/ac or will it always be out one way or the other? Our Morris tank we have used for the last 16 years always applied about 5% heavier than what it was set for. Will we need to actually set the monitor on our JD for 110 or 130 (or some #) to get the actual desired rate?

3. Auger vs. conveyor. It's coming with an 8" auger but we have the chance to trade a neighbor for the conveyor. How much faster is the conveyor over an 8" auger?

Sorry if that was long winded. I won't be the guy running the drill but will need to get it set-up and working this first season. Thanks in advance.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Big brother
Posted 12/30/2012 16:22 (#2786155 - in reply to #2786152)
Subject: Re: 1910 JD air cart questions


southern ontario
get conveyer for sure
Top of the page Bottom of the page
mennoboy
Posted 12/30/2012 16:34 (#2786173 - in reply to #2786155)
Subject: Re: 1910 JD air cart questions


Rivers, MB
any idea on actual % increase in speed over 8" auger? We treat some of our seed through the auger on the air cart currently so I need to be able to justify the extra work/expense of treating our seed some other way with an appreciable increase in filling speed.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
mikejd4020
Posted 12/30/2012 16:40 (#2786179 - in reply to #2786152)
Subject: RE: 1910 JD air cart questions


Bainville, MT
Yellow, black, and green roller. Might need a blue for high rates. You can split tanks. like peas 100 lb green roller, 50 lbs black roller. total 150 lbs.

Yes you can save the calibration number for a crop. It is the mdv or meter displacement value for a certain crop. With power cal it is very easy to calibrate.

Just follow the on screen instructions. Might not hurt to have a guy that is done it before walk you through it the first time. After that it is like riding a bike.

Mike

They go in sizes
Yellow smallest roller
Black med fine
Green medium
Blue big.

Mike
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Big brother
Posted 12/30/2012 16:44 (#2786189 - in reply to #2786173)
Subject: Re: 1910 JD air cart questions


southern ontario
The conveyer will clean out better then the auger I always have 2 pails to run up ladder or throw in wagon with auger when switching from fert to seed
Top of the page Bottom of the page
prefred
Posted 12/30/2012 17:14 (#2786242 - in reply to #2786152)
Subject: RE: 1910 JD air cart questions


Manitoba
Ron, Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. I see that you don't even give Ag Talk a rest over Christmas :). The 1910 cart with respect to accuracy has been a disappointment to me, we seemed to be consistently 10% higher in application rates than what we set it for--this year I finally changed the calibration numbers to coincide with the actual GPS reading of the auto steer, and that brought us a little closer to accurate. For all the crops you are seeding, you will need the yellow, black, blue and green rollers. We have two green rollers, as that seems to be the one we use the most. The secret here, especially in seeding large size seed is to use the smallest grooved roller at the highest speed for desired population so that you can even out the seed distrubution (at least as well as you can with this system). We do not have hydraulic drives on our cart for meter calibration, we crank it out by hand, but we have found that the only time that we will re-use previously established calibrations is if we are using exactly the same product, meaning the same type of wheat. Other wise we will calibrate for each seed change. Especially with canola, you cannot assume that if the setting for a L130 is 8 on the meter, that you can switch to L150 without re-calibrating.
Augar over conveyor--definitely the conveyor, especially for peas a/o soybeans--it is a must for least destruction of seed coat. We have used a short augar in front of the conveyor for treating in the field--but for most part all seed treatment is done in the yard.
AND watch the lids--IF they are not sealed a/o closed properly, which is easy to do, because you can swing them around backwards and they will lock down, but not be sealed--your time spent calibrating will be worth nothing!! Your seeding rate will be half to three quarters of intended.
Comment on seeding oats--constantly monitor seed flow--these tanks have a tendency to bridge with oats and you will have skips. Make sure the agitator is on high and what we do is shut off fertilizer flow every half hour or so to see if the blockage monitors indicate loss of oat seed flow. Then at seed fill, close the seed flow gates, pull the roller to check for bridging across the grooves. Make sure you open the seed gates AGAIN!!! (just lessons learned over the years)
You were worried about being longwinded--I topped it!!
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Detroit
Posted 12/30/2012 20:32 (#2786757 - in reply to #2786155)
Subject: Re: 1910 JD air cart questions


Crawfordsville, Arkansas
Check your email Ron.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
glensts
Posted 12/30/2012 20:35 (#2786768 - in reply to #2786173)
Subject: Re: 1910 JD air cart questions



We treat as well with our auger, we had a conveyor on the demo we used, I didn't care for it but maybe because I wasn't used to it. It was not faster than the 8 inch auger but close to the same, it would be better for peas if you are throwing them in dry but we use a water and peat mix, tagteam and that quietens the auger down nicely

I have the yellow, green and black rollers, Don't need the blue unless you want 4bu/acre of peas or similar,

Edited by glensts 12/30/2012 20:37
Top of the page Bottom of the page
mennoboy
Posted 12/30/2012 20:39 (#2786785 - in reply to #2786242)
Subject: RE: 1910 JD air cart questions


Rivers, MB
herman,

Thanks for the reply and merry Christmas and a happy new year to you as well. I have actually not spent much time on NAT over Christmas. But it was nice and quiet in the house this afternoon with kids having quiet times so figured it was time to ask stuff I had thought of all Christmas.

Thats good to know that we can use the same cal. #. I was thinking only for the identical lots. We've found that bushel weight between seed lots can make a big difference in lb/ac applied. but we sometimes will do a few fields of one variety of wheat, do some peas/canola and then go back to the same lot of wheat and was hoping we would not need to re-calibrate.

Didn't know those lids spun all the way around.

If you have the same type of fert or seed in more than 1 tank, do you find it easier to have both of them applying at the same time or do you run one tank at full rate and then switch to the next tank.


Thanks for the heads up on the rollers. I forget what ours is coming with. Will probably need to order a few more rollers. We didn't buy this used drill from Enns Bros so won't have quite the same support as if we had. Brian couldn't find anything like what we wanted so ended up with one from south of Regina.



Edited by mennoboy 12/30/2012 20:42
Top of the page Bottom of the page
billybob77
Posted 12/30/2012 20:40 (#2786786 - in reply to #2786152)
Subject: RE: 1910 JD air cart questions


Southern MB
My uncle has the same cart and has said it works pretty good for everything except canola. Seems it will never put out what they want it to. Always to heavy or to light. They have had that cart for many years and still can't solve it.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
prefred
Posted 12/30/2012 22:04 (#2787018 - in reply to #2786785)
Subject: RE: 1910 JD air cart questions


Manitoba
The theory of running two tanks simultaneously seems like a good idea, but we have instead used the extra tank to carry extra product and just switched from one tank to the other as the one nears empty. I would sooner have one tank go empty and have the other tank with lots of product in it, than have both tanks with product left over--especially if you don't plan on cleaning it out before starting the next field. Also, if you only have one roller that works, then you can switch rollers.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
kholman
Posted 12/30/2012 22:29 (#2787078 - in reply to #2786152)
Subject: Re: 1910 JD air cart questions



We've had a 3 tank 250 bu for 6 yrs now. I think it's quite accurate if u take the proper time to calibrate a bunch of times. Seed will always settle after a few rounds so your calibration in the yard will be out as much as 10 percent. I like to see 2-3 calibrations within 1-2 percent before I just run it rest of the season. I would still check it once a day just to make sure it's not hanging or plugged or something. Write down your calibration factors all the time so u can see trends and compare over the yrs. Makes you more confident in your numbers.

Make sure your wheel speed matches gps speed exactly. Fastest and easiest way is have the cart half full and take it on the road at 10 mph or so. Adjust the tire circumstance until speeds match exactly. The 400 ft course calibrations are so so in my books

Make sure u set the agitators to high for oats and barley. Neighbors found out the hard way this yr.

We have the 8" auger and I put an air seeder hopper on it 2 yrs ago. Works awesome with semi now. If u use semis don't get a conveyor.

I use yellow for canola, black for wheat and most fert, and green for oats and barley. You don't want the transmission to run out of range for your rates, especially if u do VR. I put a couple tuning rings on each segment of my black phos roller to make it spin a little faster. I'm gonna do the same to the yellow for canola but likely 3 or 4 rings. Thinking it will make it more accurate to calibrate and perhaps smooth out the flow a bit more. You one pass guys will ha e different fert rates so will need different rollers. Also depends on machine width and # of runs. Need to do some figuring and asking around.

I win on the long winded part I think...
Top of the page Bottom of the page
kdt_4x4
Posted 12/30/2012 23:49 (#2787208 - in reply to #2786152)
Subject: Re: 1910 JD air cart questions


As said before calibrate once after you fill, then seed 5-10 acres, then calibrate again. Canola can take 3-4 calibrations but usually can get get within .2lbs of 5lbs/ac fairly quickly using a calibration number from a previous year, just write down the calibration number and the seeds/lb for that calibration so you can adjust it accordingly in the future . Always try and keep the transmission close to 50 by adding or taking off tuning rings from the rollers, if the transmission is running real slow (below 20) it can get jumpy where it will dump alot of seed out and then leave a skip, especially on suflowers.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Luckyfarmer
Posted 12/30/2012 23:53 (#2787219 - in reply to #2786152)
Subject: RE: 1910 JD air cart questions


Central South Dakota
Like other have said get the speed calibrated to match your gps. Calibrate your tanks like the instructions say but go plant a few acres and then do it again after the product has settled. Map and Urea I can get ours to plant within 1-2lbs/acre of my desired rate. For some reason I can never get the wheat to plant at the rate the computer says. Once I get it calibrated if I back it off 8-10lbs an acre from what the moniter says it will be right on the money. We plant both spring wheat, winter wheat, oats, peas.......doesn't matter, its always about 8-10lbs heavy on our drill.

Also make sure your urea feeds through the top runs of your cart and the mesz and seed feed throught he bottom runs when planting because the urea will bridge up trying to run to the bottom set of runs running around the top tubes.

If your drill has an all run moniter never assume everything is planting if your running different products from different tanks into the same run. When I stop to fill I always turn the crank a couple times and then walk behind the drill and look because if the mesz is still running, but you catch a slug between the meter agitator and roller and block a run, it will tell you it is still planting.

If you have swath pro, take the time to do the measurements and input the different times so that your tanks will shut off or come on when needed. You'll be amazed at how much seed and fertilizer you'll save. Just make sure when your counting the seconds it takes to get to the drill your looking at the furthest seedboot on the furthest rank for your on/off time so you don't have skips. If a clutch starts not wanting to come back on when using this make sure the rubber hasn't rotted out of it letting dirt into work into it causing it not to engage.

If your pulling with a newer deere tractor with the high capacity hydraulics, I like to plug my fan into port #4, #5, or #6 and the wings and raise/lower into #1 & #2 that way when your lifting openers you don't see fan surge on the cart.

On the all run blockage system be prepared to spend about a $1000 a year replacing the master module to either tower # 5 or #6. IMHO deere has a problem, but won't admit it. We've replaced one of these modules every year since the drill has been new and it is stored inside.

If for some reason you have a tank that suddenly stops seeding make sure the nut that keeps the tank lid tight didn't come loose letting the lid lift and depressurizing the tank.

Make sure you own a good pair of leather gloves when you want to remove the little pin that is the saftey lock that locks the auger up other wise your hands will be raw by the end of the day from the wire slicing it up.

If you have to rehose your drill think long and hard about changing to the newer style manifold. A good investment IMHO.

We put got rid of the OEM auger hopper and put on one manufactured up there by airseederhopper.com Very happy with it.

Put the full weight kit on the drill, even in the middle. My boss and I thought we didn't need it, but were convinced to put it on and we are so much happier with our stands.

Your probably going to need a yellow, black, green and blue rollers probably multiples of both looking at what your going to be seeding.

If you want to feed the same product out of two different tanks and one ends up fuller than the other you just need to go into the moniter and do a % adjust on the variable rate and after one or two tankfuls I can have them emptying out pretty close together.

If your meters are used, I would pop them apart and check the condition of the brushes in the rollers and see if they need replaced because on the lower seeding rates if seed is leaking past, it can cause you to be off quite a bit.

The last thing to check is make sure the hoses are putting pressure on the correct rank. We've gotten drills before where the down pressure box for the seed ranks was actually applying pressure to the fertilizer ranks and the fert pressure gauge was applying pressure to the seed ranks. Was plumbed wrong at some point in the setup process.

Sure I missed something, but that's a start. Good luck.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
mennoboy
Posted 1/1/2013 23:22 (#2792354 - in reply to #2786152)
Subject: thanks guys


Rivers, MB
I will be printing off this thread and going through it once we have the drill home. you've been lots of help.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
Jump to forum :
Search this forum
Printer friendly version
E-mail a link to this thread

(Delete cookies)