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Kinze 2600 Seed Box Sizes. Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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coconutfarmer |
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Eastern Ontario | What is the largest size available. Thinking about a 2600 interplant for doing our beans but don't want to mess around with small seed boxes. Would like a 3 bu box at least. Thanks. | ||
jdflyer |
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Centralia, MO | Kinze only offered 1.9 bu boxes but I see lots of them with extensions that make the box hold about 3 bu. | ||
Sodbustr |
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Western Iowa | I don't think you can put a bigger box on the pushers for sure. You can add extentions to the standard 1.6 bu box to get you to almost 3 bu. I am pretty sure that is your only option. I found that the 2600 fiberglass boxes with extensions full of beans no-tilling at 6-7mph will break up the boxes and extentions. They are not strong enough. Also the toolbar doesn't like it either. I have busted rims, broke the frame off on one side of the post laying the planter over on its side, other side cracked but I caught it in time, replaced the whole bearing holder for the upright post. I never went down the road loaded with it either.......... | ||
GrainTrader |
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20 Miles West of Indianapolis Indiana | I have a 12/24 2600 with extensions. I think they are originally 1.6 bu boxes with 1 bushel extensions. I use bags so i just put 2 bags per box and go. You can plant 40+ acres per fill.... I wouldnt be suprised if someone doesnt make a box like your wanting. As far as the 2600's go its a great planter. I plant both corn and beans with mine. My long term plan is to get a 16 or 24 row planter some day for corn and use my 2600 for just beans.... | ||
coconutfarmer |
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Eastern Ontario | So loading and then traveling probably isn't a good idea with the extensions added? | ||
KMech |
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Missouri | It depends how far you travel and over what kind of terrain. If you have one of the newer tractors that will go 30mph, and you're going to haul down a bumpy back road, then no, I definitely would not transport loaded. I see a good number of them with hopper extensions on the push units. They do just fine with it. Problems at the post base casting do occur, but they're usually due to negligence more than loaded transport. We replace two a year, on average. It's usually a guy who will admit to folding out the planter while driving across the field. It is a very strong planter frame when it is locked in transport. It is also a very strong planter frame when folded out, with the winglocks unlocked, and the wing wheels on the ground. While it is in between, it is vulnerable. The other common cause of problems at the post is when one or more of the bolts holding the post base casting down break. If they are replaced, there is often times no problem, but if the planter continues to be operated with the missing bolts, it becomes much more likely that the casting will break. Bolt breakage is rare, but we replace several every year. 6 to 7 mph is too fast for planting, even in tillage, and especially for finger pickup meters. If you no-till at that speed, I apologize for my bluntness, but you are both doing a poor job, and abusing your equipment at the same time. Do some test plots some time, planting the same seed, the same population, and at varying speeds. the results are surprising. | ||
GrainTrader |
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20 Miles West of Indianapolis Indiana | ive usually got plenty of help to move field to field and move seed, so its not an issue for me to move without filling up first. but i would recommend transporting as empty as possible. i think the 3600's are built heavier for this, but i dont see the need to hammer down on a bumpy road just to get to the next field to go 5mph..... | ||
Sodbustr |
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Western Iowa | I appreciate a lot of what you are saying. My casting for the center post did have some broken bolts, almost 1/2 were gone actually when we replaced it. I can't remember but I thought all but 2 or 3 were very recently broken. I feel I should have caught it sooner, but I was not greasing the planter this spring as I was having back issues. The guys greasing it did not catch it. My planter has been on a 20 mph tractor until this year. Now a 26mph. I can see where that affects the planter. Good to slow down on a bumpy road. A good number of pusher unit boxes do fail. Not just on my planter. There is a reason they have plasic boxes now. Since we are talking about pusher units, I was assuming soybeans. If a planter can't take going 6-7 mph in a reasonably level field doing soybeans I don't want it. It should be able to take it. Kinze made a neat machine when they came out with the 2600 16-31. Great way to have the best of both worlds and a narrow transport. Kinze got leapfrogged by Deere when they came out with the 1790 series. I have put about 13K acres on my 2600. I understand it well. It is also getting to be a old planter and I expect it to have repairs. I do not however drink the coolaid that they are heavy built. Not bad, but not perfect by any means I looked over real hard planters this summer, having a deere in the yard here next spring. In my opinion only thing keeping kinze in the planter market is loyalty and the hydraulic wieght transfer for the toolbar wings. Without the wieght transfer they do not stand out at all. | ||
KMech |
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Missouri | The frame will take 6-7mph just fine. My point about not traveling that speed was planting accuracy. If you're bouncing the row unit hard enough to cause damage to the hopper boxes, think about what that's doing to the seeds in the seed tube. As for the fiberglass boxes, well on a 2600 they are anywhere from 14 to 20-something years old now, I could see them starting to show there age. I can't say how well they hold up, because we don't sell any. People must either be buying used, aftermarket, or I have had great results using a fiberglass patch kit from napa on the only one hopper I have had to repair in 30 years. The only strength issues we see with that frame are the one or two post castings we replace a year, and periodically an older trade in will show some stress cracks near the wing hinges, or where the top truss rail is welded to the center tube frame. I've never seen any of those get to the point of actual breakage, although it does stand to reason if they were run long enough, it would eventually happen. 1790 to 2600 is not a fair comparison. The X600 frame was updated and reinforced with the introduction of the 3600. It was updated and additional bracing added again around 2010 when ASD was added to the 3600 line. The frame also got minor updates in 2011, but I don't know if that was for structural improvement. As far as I am aware, just incorporated the weight transfer system mounts as in integral, welded part of the frame, eliminating the bolt-on brackets and related bolt on bracing. If you're going to make a fair comparison, you need to weigh the 1790 against the 3660 | ||
Sodbustr |
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Western Iowa | I agree on comparing a 3660 with a 1790. That is what I did and came away thinking the deere was a better built planter. Keep in mind I have a kinze planter and have a good dealer. I just didn't feel right about getting a new one without looking at others and I am glad I did. It wasn't a salesman that sold me on the deere planter. It was spending 4 hours on 2 lots about 1/2 mile apart crawling all over the planters on a sunday afternoon. My decision wasn't based on worring about the frame breaking on the kinze. Looking at the newer series you can see they have made some changes and are likely improved. I personally think the 3600 series might have some issues but the 3660 with the mainframe wheels I can't really tell, but it looks heavier built. I didn't like how the toolbar 'latches' to the trasport subframe when in planting mode. I think that will become an issue as the planters age but I am not positive. There are some other negatives in my mind about the kinze bars (at least on the 40ft bars) but no piont in hashing it out. | ||
KMech |
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Missouri | I'm not looking to argue your points. I just like to hear the observations of others. Both make good planters, and there is no one machine that is best in all things. Often, one is better for one situation, while another is the better choice in yet again a different one, and they're often by different manufacturers. I haven't taken the time to look over a 1790 in detail. I wouldn't mind knowing what it's potential advantages are if you care to share. I hadn't thought about where the top and bottom frames come together. We haven't seen any problems there yet. I like the new frame design. It carries the tongue higher off the ground for greater ground clearance, and the rockshaft lift of the main frame axle carries it even higher in the raised position. I think the biggest drawback of the 3660 is the unavailability of contact ground drive. Hydraulic drive is great, but not everybody wants or needs it. If you're not variable rate planting, then hyd drive is little more than a convenience that lets you change rate from the touchscreen instead of changing transmission sprockets. | ||
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