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South Dakota | Is anybody running the curvetine metal closing wheels on a corn planter? We were thinking of trying them but im not sure if they would benefit us, we are mostly conventional tillage corn on corn with some no-till or minimum till soybeans. Any information on different set ups people are running and what the advantages are would be greatly appreciated Thanks! |
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West Union, IOWA FLOLO Farm 52175 | The search function is your friend.....
http://talk.newagtalk.com/search/query.asp?fid=0&action=search&sear...
Should be an expert,if you read them all *grin*
Personally, I run 2 per row......very happy, and if you'd like to try a used set.....my email works. I'd love to upgrade to the new M series.. |
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SCPA | I use them here, I think they do help in wetter no-till conditions, not sure if they would help in conventional tilage, but we have done, very, very little tillage to make any comparisions. Overall in our conditions YES they work, and work as promoted, |
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Central Il Morton | I started with 1 then added second one. Mostly all conventional tillage. Thing I like about them the most is no crusting if I get a hard rain before emergence. |
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Appomattox/Fredericksburg, VA | I run 1 ct and 1 rubber. I stagger the rubber behind the ct to try and give trash room to flow
100% no till. Very pleased with the job they do. |
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Crawfordsville, Arkansas | I'm curious to see the replies.
I'm running a 16/32 1790 JD all stock now. Has wavy coulters up front with no row cleaners. Factory rubber closers. I plant about 60% tilled ground and the remaining 40% a mix of no till and stale seedbed from spring tillage. Early spring will be wet and can be sticky then no till double crop beans into wheat straw in June concrete.
I'm real curious about the new wheels that can be easily changed over although I sure don't want to be changing them often. I sometimes swap between 3 or 4 different types of situations in a day. I can see changing the wheels taking up huge chunks of time.
My dirt is anywhere from gumbo to sand. Have planted way too early when I shouldn't have and way past when I should have. |
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VA | I put two rows on my 8 row Kinze this year. I am all no-till with some corn planted behind double crop small grain, some into covers. My other 6 rows were cast iron and spike wheel. Overall I was impressed, saw a bit of mud build up but not bad enough to inhibit their closing function. I would say they performed a little better in damp clay loam conditions than the spokes. Trying to decide whether to try the Thompson wheel or just go with the CT. A number of guys are using the double spoke with drags around here and say they work well. |
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Driftless SW Wisconsin | The Curvetine, because of its unique wide back swept tooth, functions differently from other closing wheels. It does work well over a wide range of tillage conditions as long as you don't have grossly too much spring force on it. I suggest people start with one Curvetine plus one OEM rubber per row except on one end run two ct per row with less spring force and compare emergence for yourself. Merry Christmas Jim at Dawn
Edited by Jim 12/24/2012 12:48
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Crawfordsville, Arkansas | Jim - 12/24/2012 11:46
The Curvetine, because of its unique wide back swept tooth, functions differently from other closing wheels. It does work well over a wide range of tillage conditions as long as you don't have grossly too much spring force on it. I suggest people start with one Curvetine plus one OEM rubber per row except on one end run two ct per row with less spring force and compare emergence for yourself. Merry Christmas Jim at Dawn
Any reason to run drag chains behind a Curvetine? Any reason not to? I think they helped me cover behind a factory setup. Just wondering if that's another $35 a row I can put towards something else. |
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West Union, IOWA FLOLO Farm 52175 | No chains needed with Curvetines, a chain would actually defeat the roughness aspect which helps to avoid crusting.....to some degree. |
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SE ND | I've heard they work great although when I look at used planters with them on there are always a few fingers that are broken. They are twice as expensive as Martins. We went with the Martins and have been VERY happy, will buy the Martins again |
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Driftless SW Wisconsin | +1 on that. Curvetines also do NOT require a seed firmer to get seed/soil contact. You can use a seed firmer if you wish but one is not required as it is with some straight, pointed spike tooth closers. The Curvetines work very differently than a straight, pointed, spike tooth closer. I think of the way the Curvetine works as being like the way I plant sweet corn in the garden by hand. Planting sweet corn in the garden I poke each seed into the soil down to my second knuckle with my index finger which provides good seed to soil contact at the bottom of the seed slot. The wide tip of the Curvetine wheel does the same but at row crop planter speeds. In many soils, leaving the surface a bit pock marked behind the planter (but seed at constant depth and in good seed/soil contact) greatly reduces crusting-related emergence problems. Jim at Dawn |
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Driftless SW Wisconsin | Any broken teeth on a Curvetine are possibly a warranty item and we will replace any wheels with a defective broken tooth. I sure haven't seen nor heard from customers with broken teeth recently that I can recall. Please send me a picture of it next time you see a Curvetine with a tooth broken off. And we have 48r20" and 54r20" planters with 96 or 108 Curvetines per planter in rocky areas with no reports I am aware of. On planter with this many of any sort of closing wheel, many customers like our regreaseable, triple lip sealed Timken tapered roller bearing hub on the Curvetine. One thing about closing wheels on wide planters - if one bearing goes out you have to stop to replace it. What is downtime at planting time worth on a 60, 80, 90+ ft wide planter? Our new 1202 hub with separate interchangeable Curvetine ring (no rights or lefts) should be even better. Jim at Dawn |
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Crawfordsville, Arkansas | Jim - 12/24/2012 19:29
+1 on that. Curvetines also do NOT require a seed firmer to get seed/soil contact. You can use a seed firmer if you wish but one is not required as it is with some straight, pointed spike tooth closers. The Curvetines work very differently than a straight, pointed, spike tooth closer. I think of the way the Curvetine works as being like the way I plant sweet corn in the garden by hand. Planting sweet corn in the garden I poke each seed into the soil down to my second knuckle with my index finger which provides good seed to soil contact at the bottom of the seed slot. The wide tip of the Curvetine wheel does the same but at row crop planter speeds. In many soils, leaving the surface a bit pock marked behind the planter (but seed at constant depth and in good seed/soil contact) greatly reduces crusting-related emergence problems. Jim at Dawn
Sounds like I will be getting a set before spring rolls around. Best to buy them directly from Dawn or through a dealer? |
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South Dakota | I was thinking of putting a curvetine on the left and leave the stock rubber closing wheel on the right and see how that works since we are all over the spectrum when it comes to tillage. how long do these wheels last acre wise before they need to be replaced? we have a set of dawn row cleaners that we had put well over 50,000 acres on over the course of 10 or 12 years and never had an issue with a bearing going out that's the reason I will stay with the dawn. Thanks |
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Driftless SW Wisconsin | I would run half of the rows with the Curvetine on the right, half with the Curvetine on the left side of the seed just to avoid any chance of pulling one way or the other, as remote as that might seem with closing wheels. Please leave one end row with two rubber tires and the other end row with two Curvetines run at a lighter spring setting than the other rows. This way when you turn you will have two rows together to compare no Curvetines, most rows with one Curvetine and two rows together with two Curvetines. This will give you some first hand experience with two vs one and what one is doing for you compared to two stock rubber. I'll bet you see a visible emergence difference in many spots in the field if not all. One of our goals with the Curvetine is to provide a closing wheel that works well in a variety of tillage systems. Few people want to go changing closing wheels on a 24 row planter when they do the worked headlands, etc! A point to keep in mind is that Curvetines have intermittent and less ground contact area than a smooth rubber tire and do not require near as much down force as the stock rubber tires. This also reduces tailpiece pivot wear, etc. The new 1202 version of our Curvetine should last on a par with our Trashwheels. Hub bearing arrangement is the same except has a regreasable cap with protected zerk left in. We grease Curvetines more often that Trashwheels, more to purge dirt than lube the bearings. Closing wheels are in a bit of a different environment than row cleaners. Thanks for the kind words. Merry Christmas. Jim at Dawn
Edited by Jim 12/25/2012 09:55
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| apbeery - 12/24/2012 09:57I put two rows on my 8 row Kinze this year. I am all no-till with some corn planted behind double crop small grain, some into covers. My other 6 rows were cast iron and spike wheel. Overall I was impressed, saw a bit of mud build up but not bad enough to inhibit their closing function. I would say they performed a little better in damp clay loam conditions than the spokes. Trying to decide whether to try the Thompson wheel or just go with the CT. A number of guys are using the double spoke with drags around here and say they work well. Thanks for the interest in our Thompson wheel. I will just quickly point out that the T-whls never break any teeth, and have a 5-yr warranty on the bearings. The bearings last so long that farmers say they forget there are even bearings in our T-whls. As for closing action, sidewall breakage, and accomplishing these without overpacking, the Thompson wheel compares quite favorably.best regards, |
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Dawn Curventine closing wheels
