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pole building using 2 7/8" oil pipe? Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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jfqc |
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se montana | Anybody seen this done before? Have more pipe than money. I like the idea of steel poles for longevity, but not sure if they are rigid enough. Planning on 8' spacing on the poles. 16' walls. 20' pole, 4 feet deep in concrete. Wood trusses, wood perlons. Would a big wind move this building? | ||
krantz |
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NM | Depends on the truss length (span) will try to get a pic tomorrow | ||
Pofarmer |
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Compressive strength would be find, but, I wonder about buckling. Truss it with two a foot apart and zigzag some rebar between em would do it. | |||
t-boss |
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sc ia | Place your 2 7/8" x 16 pipe on the floor with a block under each end and then jump on the pipe in the middle. Repeat procedure with a 16 ft. 6x6 post. You'll see the difference. | ||
pete37921x |
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NE SD | Build the whole thing out of pipe, rafters to, lots of them in the southern oil states, if your a better welder than carpenter might be cheaper | ||
SteigerSt320 |
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Northeast Louisiana | Lots of sheds here built with oilfield pipe. Put two together with braces zig zag between pipe. Works well here. | ||
School Of Hard Knock |
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just a tish NE of central ND | That pipe.......... seems to me it sells for like 35-40$ a stick around here...It can come in handy .I have 24 foot free standing cattle panels framed out with it .Wish I had more of them. If you have lots of pipe, don't skimp and brace it allot. | ||
Ben D, N CA |
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Whiskey, Tango, Foxtrot | With enough bracing it should work fine. By putting an X brace in between the poles (even cable works well, under tension) you can take the front to back (parallel to the ridgeline) sway out. Hard part is the side to side sway if you have a clear span building. It is going to be pretty hard to brace that properly without taking out much of the usable space inside the building. Almost going to need a brace running from ground level on one side to the top on the other. | ||
Hay Wilson in TX |
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Little River, TX | You are describing my "new" hay barn, more or less. 40' Wide, 125' long, 17' height to truss. 5 reinforced piers to a side. 4" steel pipes for poles, bolted to the piers, this is a whole lot stiffer than drill stem. Upon reflection I would have used 5" steel for the poles. but this was designed by an engineer at a local manufacturing plant and a couple of their mechanics. Trusses were built on site using stubs on post plus a temporary post to put the bow in the upper pipe. Pipes the drill stems were welded together for the length. The sheet metal on the roof is one long piece to go from side to side. The sheet metal are screwed to real pear lings not local manufactured. These pear lings running the length of the building adds a lot to the strength. Pear lings on the sides also tighten things up. I thought about putting in some flying buttresses to take out any side sway. Have not felt the need. Took two to locate the piers. To pour the piers needed 4 men who knew what they were doing. To put up the trusses and pearling took 5 men two welding machines, a rented crane and a couple of cherry pickers or man lifts. To put the sheet metal on took three roofers, and 3 men on the ground to keep them supplied with material. Plus at least one flunky and go for to run errands and fetch and carry. We also used two tractors with reasonable good front end leaders. The only complicated part was finding the time when all the needed men were available. They all had jobs or farms, One farmer friend was an artiest with a cutting torch and another was an artiest with a welder. | ||
sdnotill1983 |
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SE SD | Take a look at a couple old threads of mine, this is a building a local builder built for me out of oil well pipe. http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=225204&posts=1... http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=225467&posts=6... http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=233908&posts=9... | ||
jcs |
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Oklahoma | Finishing up a shed on my place out of 3" ID oil pipe poles and used commercially built trusses with 3" perlin. Mine is 10 ft centers, set 3 ft in concrete but once concrete floor is poured it will be 10 ft walls and ~3.5' in concrete. We put extra cross bracings in both in the roof and in the walls. My Dad has a 100 x 36 lean too built out of same pipe but each bay is ~20 ft wide and the short end of the lean to is 14 ft, high end is ~20 ft. We did the same thing, lots of angles in the walls, he used smaller perlin than I did but ran them closer together. Since the bays are so wide he went back in prior to putting metal on and made running W trusses in for the roof line as the pipe was sagging more than what he thought it would. He made the W trusses from two sticks of the pipe and heating sucker rod to the pattern and welding it in place. We finished that barn in 04 and it has withstood 1" inch of ice with 6 inches of snow on top of that and also had a tornado pass overhead, its still standing. | ||
jfqc |
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se montana | was that 2 7/8"? | ||
sdnotill1983 |
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SE SD | Mine was built out of 3 1/2 pipe. Weighed 15 lb a foot. It was some heavy thick stuff. | ||
Jim-HansenPoleBldg |
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Consider a hollow metal pole vs. a solid wood pole = probable building failure. These poles will work for a fence but a building structure is a whole different animal. At a 16' building height, no matter what the wind-speed design criteria requirement is in your area, this is significant wind pressure on any building. Feel free to visit this pole building learning center for many design answers http://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/pole-building-faqs.htm. | |||
jfqc |
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se montana | Our wood pole buildings have sagged, rotted, and leaned in as little as 10 years. Thanks for the reply, but convince me again why I wan't to pay twice as much for wood poles? I understand the possibility of pipe folding over, but I think I could put it on closer spacing and still beat a wood pole building. | ||
pete37921x |
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NE SD | Southern guys will be more help lots of building made with pipe, yes closer together and bracing will help, have seen 16 ft wall built with 2x6 studs, no reason why pipe won't work, sdnotill is your best source here so far, maybe bigger pipe for corners, or two pipe together perpendicular to the wall | ||
jfqc |
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se montana | Do you know of any built with 2 7/8"? That is the biggest question right now. | ||
jfqc |
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se montana | I'm kind of stuck to 3" oil pipe max size. Going to 4" gets really expensive, and kind of kills the point of pipe. I'm planning 8' spacing on the poles, 4' on trusses, and x brace w/rebar between all of the poles. 40 wide, and 120 long. 2 rea poles per side will be used toward the middle third of the long walls. Maybe just a little insurance for that big west wind. I'm kind of wanting to somebody to tell me it's plenty stout, but I might just have to chance it. Tks for all the help, guys. | ||
sdnotill1983 |
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SE SD | Shoot me an email if you want, i can get you the number to my builder. I know he built a bigger barn last year (80x160)? where he used 2, 3 or 4" posts with the truss sandwiched between the two. If you are on facebook, check out TRC steel buildings and fence. My posts are 3.5" and are 12' on center. My building is all steel, and all welded. Edited by sdnotill1983 11/16/2012 09:15 | ||
Pole Barn Guru |
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jfqc ~ If you have had a wood pole building sag, rot or lean over in even 30 years, then someone made some serious misjudgments in either the design or construction phases. A properly engineered and erected pole building - should easily outlive any of us who are reading this thread. | |||
jfqc |
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se montana | I agree with your statement, however I don't know which of those mistakes were made on ours to cause it to lean over. It was an s bar s building erected in the mid 80's , and by the mid 90's, it leaned so far west, we had to set cable dead man's in concrete to slow it down. Looks like hell, and really didn't stop the leaning. I'd like to hook the cable onto the tractor and pull as hard as I can, but I'd probably break the building into a big pile. | ||
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