We apply NH₃  with our 41', JD 1610 plow.  Just about everyone around here has a tube that goes off the side of the sweep...we are sweeping while fertilizing.  As far as spacing goes, seems like we have tubes on every shank on the back row, and one or two tubes somewhere's in the front rows...  Moisture must be 'just about perfect', or one can lose a bunch of NH_3.  I like Plowboy's method of chiseling better.  The 1610's shanks are much heavier than a 1600.

 And yeah, the 1610's shanks are just like the 610's.  I have a JD 610, also, and do not like it NEAR as much as the 1610...even though the 610 is "new(er) and improved".  There has been MAJOR rockshaft trouble with these plows!  If a person ever thinks of buying one, make sure it has the solid rockshaft.  I can show you several junk 610 rockshafts around this part of the world. (I have not had trouble (yet), but have neighbors who have had to replace them..)

Plowboy:

So, which do you like better?  The Wiese's or the 2 inch chisels?  When you say 'chisel' are you talking something like a chromium-carbide (c.c.) chisel (BIG triangle point on the end)?  If so, how did you attach the tube to the c.c. chisel?  Did you simply weld it (on the back side?), and have to cut it off, or simply replace it when it is time for a new chisel?  I sometimes put my c.c. chisels on my 1610, and 'mini-rip' things.  My c.c. chisels can also be used in conjunction w/ some 'special' sweeps, that have a notch in them so you can sweep while using the c.c. chisel.  I do not have those 'special' sweeps...just the chisels...Thanks for the advice.

The chisel had Deere 5/8 x 2 reversible points on it when we got it, with one side worn out and the new side down.  No cap on them, but otherwise I think similar to what you are describing.    I elected to go ahead and use them because we had a bunch of corn stalks which we thought some more residue coverage would be good on.  We just welded the 1/8" pipe to the back of the point and bent it to clear the shank.  I expected it to not seal well in heavy clay or wet ground compared to the Wiese knives.  Actual experience this year showed the points to seal better then the knives in clay or mud.  I haven't really figured that out myself.  The advantage to the knives is that they don't disturb the nasty clay very much, so if you work something a little wet it does relatively little damage....we have the shanks on 18" centers (basically removed the center row) which helps some in that regard, too.  Which one do I like better?  Well, they both have their place, but I am seriously considering putting the chisel points on both of them for next year. 

Plowboy:

Funny how farmers in close vacinity of one another seem to have simular practices.  I see you are in KS, and I am in the panhandle of TX.

I understand your reply, and I appreciate it.  I may weld some tubes on the back side of my c.c. chisels.  My c.c. chisels are made by Nichols.  If you are thinking about getting a set (or another set) to rig up some NH₃ tubes, these Nichols would make a fine choice.  I have run mine over hundreds of acres, and they show very little wear!  I can not believe how hardy these chisels are.  It would require a fair amount of time & labor to fab. the NH₃ tubes, so one would want to start with a quality chisel.

Below is a picture of my chromium carbide chisels.  I got this pic. from Nichols' site.  I do not [currently] have the sweep(s).  Again, it is notched so you can mount the sweep & chisel at the same time...do two things at once..(if I had the NH₃ tubes welded on, I would be doing three things at once!)

So, you think that things centered at, or about 18" will suffice?  I have chisels for every shank (OEM is set up on 12" centers, as you well know), but I do not have enough outlets on my NH₃ manifold to go with 12" (or even 18") centers.  I could easily put a "Y" or "T" in each line, and effectively double my outlets.  If starting with a "blank sheet of paper", what distance would you use for center-to-center?  A lot of NH₃ 'rigs' use 2 feet as the center-to-center distance...so you sure might be barking up the right tree at 18 inches..

One more thing: as far as mounting the tube, did you burn the tube directly to the chisel, or use something like a half chain link (at top & bottom) to hold the tube on?

Thanks

Our primary purpose it to apply the NH3, so 18" is fine.  We have put it on at as much as 36" in the past, and if you index to the rows and put the shank between the rows, there is no reason 60" wouldn't be adequate.  Wheat would be  a different deal. 

We welded the tubes straight to the points.  

Heck, we put them on half worn out think points which I expected to break before the season was over, but they lasted better then I expected.  As far as the fabrication goes, basically I bent a 90^o in the tube and welded them on, then bent them to conform to the back of the shank as close as possible once the points were installed.  Wasn't too much work involved in it.  I had an extra shank in the vice and stuck the point on it while fitting the tube, to make sure of clearances.  Didn't bend them very close until they were actually installed, so that they could be as close as possible without having to worry about clearing the socket for installation.