|
|
| Is there a right way and wrong to set up a Vermeer R2300 rake if you are moving heavy hay that is going to be baled and wrapped compared to moving dry hay and baling it for dry hay? If rake is brand new what is the proper way to set it up and what ground speed do they work best at? What other kind of tips should we know on these rakes? |
|
| |
|
Northwest iowa | I like to change the pitch of the baskets. This is done by lengthening the threaded rods that hold up the back of the baskets. Mine have maybe 3/4 inch of thread left on top. This will make a big difference in how the rake operates in both wet and dry hay. Ground speed will depend somewhat on crop volume, but 6-8 mph is a good place to start. Just keep it out of the dirt and it will last forever. These rakes are the most trouble free equipment we have here. I run two R2800s, but have had R2300, R24a, and R23a. I think we fixed a bearing on the R23a once, otherwise just replace some teeth now and then |
|
| |
|
Huntley Montana | If they start bunching in heavy hay remove the rear stripper on both sides. I now own R2800's. Have had R2300a & R23's befor. Kinda impressed with the new prototype 2800 w 3 tines so far. It'll pick up light hay without slowing down much. |
|
| |
|
Wallis, TX | To add to IA Haymaker's comment, if the hay is flying up and/or the windrow is too loose you need to shorten the rods. The rake will then make rope like windrows, not the best to bale but they will stay together better.
As for the speed, we rake as fast as ground will let us. Usually high 1st or high 2nd on 1086, 1500-1800 rpm, faster if baler is catching up. |
|
| |