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Central Kansas | I am running a sprayer with raven valves. I am running a standard control valve with a three section boom shutoff on a raven 440. It seems we are having two problems. First when turning and shutting off master switch it can take up to ten seconds for the tips to quit running. I thought maybe it was the diaphragms but have moved that to the back burner because it doesn't matter which section and it is all the tips. The second problem is the pressure doesn't come up quickly when the booms are turned back on so when I speed up coming out if the turn I actually am not applying the correct rate which causes some streaking issues.
So my question is what is the problem? I have had a wire break on the control valve and fixed it at home. It still controls but could I have caused a resistance in the fix that is causing this issue?
I am lost right now and need to think this out while I am planting corn so when it comes time.to spray again I am ready to go.
TIA
Kevin |
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Amherst WI | Are you getting a full 12 volts at the valves? Sounds like the reaction time of the ball motors is slow both ways. |
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SC North Dakota | All from my poor memory but one of the digits that is used in the valve calibrations is how fast the valve closes. It can be programed. Will be a couple of days before I get back to the farm to find the book. Pressure coming out of a turn depends on speed. I usually flip it to manual be for a corner and it will maintain a constant rate of application. When you slow down the pressure has to drop to compensate for theslower speed. Entirely my thinking. hth |
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Baldwin City, KS | Do you have the 440 connected directly to the battery (ie, no power strip or other hot connection in the cab)? Seems like half the issues with a raven system can be traced to the 12 volt connection. We used to have similar issues when running raven valves controlled by a JD rate controller and 2600 display. It always got blamed on the 2600 not talking right with the raven valves. I bet if we would have had a Raven controller running direct to the battery, it would have worked perfectly. |
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NW IL | Once a year I usually have that happen and if I take all the connections apart and put then back together a couple times it starts working again. |
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Southwestern Ohio |
Fought a bad control valve a week ago. I would set it on manual and have somebody hit the increase and decrease switch while you listen to the valve turn to see if it acts normal. If not unhook it and see if you are getting 12 volts to the connector.
Larry |
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Northwest Iowa | Sounds to me like you have to much stretch in your sprayer line hose. As pressure increases it causes the line to stretch therefore taking longer to get it up to your pressure set point. When you shut the valves off the pressurized line will continue to dispense product until the pressure drops below the the tip shutoff point. This happens with my 60ft boom with 3/4 inch rubber hose, just not to the extremes of yours. If you run a pressure guage back to the actual boom you will know if that is the case. Hope this helps. |
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Northern CA | I agree with the earlier posters. I know there is a valve cal number for the speed of which the valves open and close. Also, 12 volts are very important. Lastly, are you sure you are turning the boom valves off and on and not the rate / flow control valve? I bought a machine wired once where the controller was opening and closing the rate / flow control valve. It made it act similar to your situation. |
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NEWTON, IL (SE IL.) | If you have screens above your spray tips, I'd be checking them. Has nothing to do with the servo, unless your 440 is set for fast-close valve. - otherwise the servo doesn't open & close when you shut the booms off. |
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SE SD | I have no idea about your problem but I found an online owners manual the other day and thought it would come in handy. http://www.agexpress.com/pdf_files/scs440.pdf |
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| I have 12v power coming directly from battery into the cab, and then have everything on the sprayer wired into that (contoller and hydraulic switches) and haven't had any voltage issues. But ust had flow meter and contol valve problem. Fixed flow meter (bad ground) and waiting on new valve to come in. Mine was locked up and I got it loose but replacing it anyway. You can disconnect the harness from the control valve, insert voltmeter, and with everything powered up and in the manual position, increase and decrease your rate. You've got to hold it for about 10 seconds to fully cycle. Volt meter should read 12volts when you push the switch to increase and decrease the rates. That will tell you if harness/contoller are good. If they are, control valve may be bad or sticking. Try tapping on it with a hammer lightly and working the switch. You should be able to hear or feel it move. If you have to replace it the orignal pn for the 1" valve is 063-0159-445, which I think is repalced by 063-0172-125. If it all seems to be working okay you can modify your calibration. Control valve cal for that monitor is factory set at 2123. 1st digit is valve backlash, 2nd digit is valve speed, 3rd digit is brake point, 4th digit is dead-band. You can try and program it yourself to get better results. Backlahs controls time of the first pulse after a change in correction, 1 is short and 9 is long. Speed digit contols speed of control valve motor. 1 is slow, 9 is fast. (too fast causes oscillation). Brake point is when the control valve motor starts breaking as to not overshoot. 0 is 5% break, 1 is 10%, 9 is 90%. Dead band is the allowable difference between target and actual application rate when rate correction isn't performed. 1 is 1%, 9 is 9%. I haven't been able to find a spec to test the resistance of the valve motor itself. This of course only deals with the control valve and not your shutoffs, not sure the troubleshooting procedures on those. |
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Raven problems
