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3" plumbing on water truck
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casetech
Posted 1/16/2012 07:02 (#2164616)
Subject: 3" plumbing on water truck


Just bought a truck to make a water tender with a 3125gal tank. Its our 1st time with 3" hoses to fill sprayer, we will be doing 28%, was wondering if you guys with such a set up how or do you empty the hoses, the trucks that bring our 28% bulk use truck air to blow out the hoses easily and no mess or do you bother.
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Oliver88
Posted 1/16/2012 07:34 (#2164634 - in reply to #2164616)
Subject: RE: 3" plumbing on water truck


Sw Ohio
We plumbed in an extra air tank into the air brake system with a one way check valve.Then ran a air line up to the transfer pump discharge.When done filling we close the liquid supply valve and open a small valve to blow the liquid out of the fill hose, works well.
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farmboy99
Posted 1/16/2012 09:03 (#2164784 - in reply to #2164634)
Subject: RE: 3" plumbing on water truck


SE South Dakota
I did about the same thing with my 2" plumbing system on the tender trailer. It does work very easily and well. With a 3" system and fertilizer you would need to empty the hose out. It would be very heavy and messy trying to handle it full.

Jim J

Edited by farmboy99 1/16/2012 09:04
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mike in sw mn
Posted 1/16/2012 09:25 (#2164822 - in reply to #2164616)
Subject: Re: 3" plumbing on water truck


Walnut Grove MN USA
Just a simple portable air tank will hold enough air to do the job 5-6 times. If you are not aware 3 inch stuff is a lot more expensive than 2 inch and can be a bear to work with. Seems like it always leaks just a little, consider using the oring type clamped fittings.
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bleedred
Posted 1/16/2012 10:54 (#2164956 - in reply to #2164616)
Subject: RE: 3" plumbing on water truck



East Central Ia
I built one last winter and had an used air line from removing the bunk. I just plumped it in past the valve that I use to switch from recirculating or unloading the truck. I did not add any additional tanks and it works great.

I used all 3" with the clamp and gasket type fittings. They are a bit more expensive but made it much easier with complex plumbing. If something leaks I can simply pull it apart anywhere without having to unscrew anything.

Working with 3" is a whole new ball game though... something as simple as sliding a hose barb into a hose becomes very difficult with 3". I had a heat gun handy to warm up the hose, and used dish soap to lubricate things.
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casetech
Posted 1/16/2012 11:46 (#2165049 - in reply to #2164956)
Subject: RE: 3" plumbing on water truck


Thanks for the replies guys very helpful glad I'm in the right train of thought. When you fellas talk about the o ring fittings I'm assuming your talking about the ones with the rubber washer style gskt and a gear clamp style band to hold the flanges together. Thanks again.
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BSchroeder
Posted 1/16/2012 11:57 (#2165063 - in reply to #2165049)
Subject: Re: 3" plumbing on water truck


Devils Lake, ND
Yes.
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Dennis SEND
Posted 1/16/2012 12:15 (#2165096 - in reply to #2164616)
Subject: Re: 3" plumbing on water truck



Another thought is use 3" right up to the end and then have 2" hose to hook up to sprayer/applicator or whatever, a 2" hose on the discharge end will flow at least 85% of what a 3" pump can "suck" in through a 3" hose, if you are going to make any 90 turns or anything else on the discharge end do all of this in 3" plumbing as each 90 degree reduces flow by about 5% also, then right at the end go to 2" hose much easier to handle and the end result will basically be the same at a much reduced cost. Dennis SEND
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brewster
Posted 1/16/2012 12:29 (#2165116 - in reply to #2164616)
Subject: RE: 3" plumbing on water truck


NW Kansas
Wow, you mean we've been lugging 3" hoses around for increased capacity and only needed to use it up to the pump with 2" after? We are using high output 3" pumps to fill with fertilizer fast and have been well pleased. We also just connected a air hose to the lines going to the trailer, works great to blow out the 3"hose, no spillage when unhooking and makes the hose much easier to handle. Plumbed a front fill on the sprayer so can hookup and fill while staying on the nurse trailer bed, never having to climb up or down on the trailer.
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dpilot83
Posted 1/16/2012 13:51 (#2165229 - in reply to #2165116)
Subject: RE: 3" plumbing on water truck



brewster - 1/16/2012 12:29  Plumbed a front fill on the sprayer so can hookup and fill while staying on the nurse trailer bed, never having to climb up or down on the trailer.

That is a very interesting idea.

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dpilot83
Posted 1/16/2012 13:53 (#2165230 - in reply to #2165116)
Subject: RE: 3" plumbing on water truck



Are you saying you fill out of your semi most of the time rather than directly out of your cone bottom tanks? We normally fill directly out of our cone bottom tanks...

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mschultz
Posted 1/16/2012 14:31 (#2165282 - in reply to #2165096)
Subject: Re: 3" plumbing on water truck


Oregon
Yeah but... If you ever need to use the SP sprayer pump to self-load, you may need 3" in order to not destroy the sprayer pump. The Deere 4930 requires 3" if self-loading. -Mike
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brewster
Posted 1/17/2012 06:28 (#2166535 - in reply to #2164616)
Subject: RE: 3" plumbing on water truck


NW Kansas
Yes, We generally have the nurse truck fill out of the cone bottoms and then follow along on the edge of the field. That way the sprayer is never driving around to get more fertilizer. Whenever he gets to the end rows the truck is waiting. Makes pit stops very fast. On long fields he may only make two passes before filling!!
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dpilot83
Posted 1/17/2012 08:48 (#2166700 - in reply to #2166535)
Subject: RE: 3" plumbing on water truck



What do you use for a nurse truck? We are always concerned about running a fully loaded semi over terraces, etc along the edge of the field. We have considered getting a tandem axle truck for a fertilizer tender of some sort, but have never pursued it.

Sure wish we had a sprayer with a bigger tank. With only 750 gallons on the longer fields we don't even make it down and back. In those situations we try to park a set of cone bottoms on one end and the semi on the other end. I guess we could fold our booms and change our track spacing from 90' to 60' and then we could make it.

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