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N14 cummins shut off, won't start. pics. Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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Virginia Veg. |
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Eastern VA. No such thing as too many Magnums. | This Cummins N14 engine is in a '93 Freightliner. The last couple weeks it would kind of sputter momentarily and the dash lights would come on for a second or two, then it would resume normally. Today it was idling in the yard, and shut off. Now it just turns over but won't ever fire. I don't think it's getting fuel. (yes fuel in tanks) I'm convinced its an electric problem. In the picture below, should there be power to the terminal where the screwdriver is pointing, in order to run? Or is that something with the air compressor. They have some components piggybacked and this ain't no Magnum, so I'm a little lost. Anything in these pictures I should tap with a hammer? I checked fuses and I don't know what to do next. (N14engine.jpg) (N14engine2.jpg) (N14controller.jpg) Attachments ---------------- N14engine.jpg (81KB - 3065 downloads) N14engine2.jpg (34KB - 2105 downloads) N14controller.jpg (45KB - 1946 downloads) | ||
Mark@Northern Iowa |
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Floyd County, Iowa | Yes, you should have 12 volts at that wire with the key on. It is the fuel shut off solenoid. No power, no fuel. and That whole assembly at the back of the compressor is the fuel pump. Edited by Mark@Northern Iowa 12/13/2011 18:57 | ||
tommyw-5088 |
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Texas | Check in the battery box ,there should be a fuse feeding the ecm , we always check to see if the gagues sweep with key on . Does it have a coolant probe ,jump across it if it does . | ||
ks8780 |
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Jewell County KS | There should be a couple of fuses in the harness that runs to the ECM in your last pic. right at the back of the head. If you can pull the connectors at the ECM and check all pins. I burnt up the ECM pins and wiring harness on a N14 that was kinda acting funky like that. | ||
ih7140 |
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We have had two shafts sheer in the pump of an N14 before it was fixed right... It would run fine and with no warning randomly shut down. Then not start back up because it wasnt pumping fuel to the machine. Not sure on your case because of the warnings it shows but its maybe something to look into if all else fails !! good luck !! | |||
Hayhauler |
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Northeast CO | Do like tommy suggested, but while you're doing that make sure the battery cables and lugs aren't broken or cracked. | ||
Lucky2Farm |
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Indianola, MS | i bought a truck with that motor, 94 model. Went to pick it up and it suddenly wouldnt crank. Turned out to be that solenoid and a week later there was a engine position sensor just in front of that solenoid that went out and it did same thing. both are rather common i was told. the sensor screws into side of block, if i temember it has more than one function and you have to test it in three spots , mechanic had one in his tool box to make it easy, he put his in-fired right up! | ||
Virginia Veg. |
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Eastern VA. No such thing as too many Magnums. | I dont think battery cables or charge are an issue. It cranks fast and strong. I'll check it for kicks. | ||
Hayhauler |
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Northeast CO | The truck I had issues with cranked strong too, and I cranked on it for quite a while hoping it would start. Hope its something simple | ||
junk combines |
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mine had a fuel problem, crap in fuel , new pump, new filter, a bigger filter, now its fine | |||
mmaddox |
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Crank the manual override knob, if it starts then, it is the solenoid. Not an uncommon failure, keep one on hand. | |||
Joey_swtexas |
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coolant level sensor possibly? I have had that happen before. Check to see if there is a screw on the opposite side if the fuel pump from the solenoid, if so you can bypass the fuel cut of solenoid with it. | |||
Fla Veggie Farmer |
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Southeast Florida | A buddy of mine had one of them, he spent enough money he could have bought another truck. He swore that a match in the fuel tank was the cheapest way out. | ||
Radiehl |
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Colorado | Same problem? http://www.batauto.com/Forums/index.php?topic=10573.0 http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f33/n14-cummins-celect-267263/ Unhook the wire on the solenoid if you try jumping it so it doesn’t back feed through the ECM. | ||
Bern |
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Mount Vernon, WA | Coolant level will only shut it down after 30 seconds of run time, not prevent it from starting. | ||
mafrif |
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NC Iowa | Some of the ECM's were programmed to not turn on the fuel shutoff solenoid until engine position was found during cranking. Most of these were reprogrammed with the key on/fuel on program. But just one thing to check before you get to deep. I'm assuming you don't have power to fuel shutoff terminal with key on? Those fuel shutoffs regularly fail. Typically the plunger gets hung up on the worn surface, after a couple key cycles it will work for another 100 starts. A couple taps on the shutoff solenoid can help IF you have power to it. | ||
Virginia Veg. |
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Eastern VA. No such thing as too many Magnums. | That sounds the same Radiehl, but I checked both of those 10 amp fuses and they're good. I think I didn't hit it hard enough with the hammer. I will jump 12V to the solenoid tomorrow. What a nusiance. | ||
Virginia Veg. |
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Eastern VA. No such thing as too many Magnums. | Correct, no power to the solenoid while key is on. | ||
milofarmer1 |
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Texas/New Mexico Stateline | I don't know about Cummins but my '93 Freightliner with a Detroit has two wires for the ECM going direct to the batteries. I have had them break from corrosion from road moisture. Just make sure they are all hooked up and clean and tight, fuses in battery box ok as Tommy suggested. Edited by milofarmer1 12/13/2011 20:43 | ||
Silver Shoes |
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Seneca Kansas 66538 | Check your fuse down in the battery box, if something is wrong with that wire it wont start. | ||
AltFarm |
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Elmwood Nebraska | Use that screw just as much as the key, some day I might replace the solenoid. | ||
ChrisTN |
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Ethridge, TN | There will be a wire that is grounded to the frame in the battery box. It's the ground for the ECM, and if it isn't good, it doesn't take much for the ECM to not allow it to start. Depending on how your ground is attached to frame, it can drive you nuts. | ||
DixieDeere |
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Jackson County, AL | Dad had coolant level low in his recently. His was a M11. Same symptoms and it wouldn't start until it cooled off, then would start and run good. Lots of fuel filters over the summer. Took it in to shop and they found it. Again, not sensor. Coolant was actually low. Will know next time...Maybe. | ||
RodInNS |
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Have you checked the various fuses that supply power to the ECM? Mine is in an IH chassis which will be different but I think there was a couple different fuses to check... Beyond that I think I'd check those big multi-pins and the harness in general... Or disconnect the wire from the fuel solenoid and feed 12V directly to the solenoid and see what happens? Rod | |||
jeff gordon |
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Mather, Manitoba | Did you try changing windshield wiper blades? | ||
farmboy99 |
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SE South Dakota | Mine cranked fast and strong too, and no start, right until I had to put in a rebuilt ecm. 1995 N-14 Also that little wire that connects to the fuel shutoff, make sure that the crimped on end to this wire is in good shape. This was a problem for me once also. Let us know what you find. Jim J Edited by farmboy99 12/14/2011 08:26 | ||
seedcleaner |
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Mid-Missouri | Does it pop off with ether? | ||
malhibros |
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The problem is you are not getting fuel to the heads because an o-Ring is messed up on one of the injectors. That is the problem.put in new o-rings and you should be good to go. | |||
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