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Western NY | I want to buy a no-till drill to plant about 90 acres of soybeans and 20 to 30 acres of wheat and for a little hay seedings each year. (15 foot drill would be plenty wide enough for me). I know it is not a ton of acres but it is enough for me. I was wondering what performs well in a no-till situation. After a quick look it seems like I would have to spend like 20,000 or more for a used drill. I was thinking at first I could find a used older no-till drill for around 10,000 but I am having a hard time finding one.
If you all could tell me what you use and what the pros and cons are of the one you have used or are currently using that would be helpful for me to decide which one to buy. And to justify spending 20,000 on a drill would mean it would perform a lot better than the rest.
Thank you!!
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| should be able to find a fairly decent jd 750 for a l0k. I bet a few people will tell you just rent or have it custom planted, in some areas that doesnt work. |
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| Another vote for the JD 750. They work good. |
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Macon, IL | I have seen a lot of Tye and Marliss 15ft drills with coulter carts sell here for $7,000-$8,000. May not be as heavy as Deere but for the acres you are talking I wouldn't think twice about one of those. I have used 15ft Tye in beans and wheat-done a good job for me. |
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WCIN | Great Plains makes a very good notill drill. Lots of them around the midwest. I have owned one since 1991, they are heavy built and do a great job. Never cared for the JD750 but they all have pros and cons. Pro for the coulter drills you can plant into wetter conditions than the 750. Pro for the 750 it will plant into hard dry ground that the others will not and handles conventional tillage much better. If you want to travel, I will sell you my old 1991 drill that needs to be rebuilt for $5K. Seems that most notill drills are selling cheap in the midwest. 750's holding value better than the coulter drills. Good luck. |
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| wondering what gp model you have that you like. My experince with gp drills, is very poor, built light and gp dont want to update known problem areas. |
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| 10 ft HayBuster should work good for you. The staggered disk opener's , like the one's on the IH early riser, go in the ground very well. Stand up well here in Ky under rental condition's. Narrow enough to hit the road with no problem. Just ran some bean's yesterday for a neighbor, good stand and th ground was hard when they were planted. |
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Western NY | I was looking at the Tye Drill and they look pretty good and are much cheaper than the 750's. I wonder though how hard it would be to get parts for it vs. the JD where dealerships can be found everywhere around here. I had never even heard of the Tye brand but am entertaining the thought for now at least.
Thanks for your help everyone. |
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swohio | I have a early 90's 10' Great Plains notill drill. Is very easy to transport and will plant into almost any cond.. Has had no problems in 3000+ acres other than normal man. I have used a 750 a fair amount over the years and I would take the GP over it in a heartbeat! |
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| what model of gp |
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Oklahoma | Depends on what model of Tye. Others have mentioned the coulter cart type, ours is not, it is an older 13 ft Stubble Drill. I think we paid $2K for it at auction about 15 years ago. Plant mainly wheat, oats, ryegrass, vetch, and some soybeans, milo, and millet. Average probably 100-200 acres a year with it. I totally rebuilt it about 4 years ago, new seed cups and openers, replaced a few press wheel bearings, and a few coulter bearings as well as new paint and poly lined the bottom of the boxes for about $1700. Seed cups were the only part I had to wait on as the Agco dealer had the rest on hand. I have also pulled JD 750/1560 drills, if I was rich and had the acres, we would own one. I have bid on several of of them but can't justify the cost with our acres.
From my perspective on the Tye Stubble Drill we have
Pros - 1) Cheap 2) Ours is heavy enough to cut through quite a bit of residue and some tight ground if the coulters and openers are good.
Cons - 1) Wheels on the outside so you loose a little on the outside laps and the wheels run the drive chains so there are times where to get it in the ground, the wheels are off the ground thus no seed 2) if you are use to searching for parts on the internet and shopping around you will be disappointed, find a good agco dealer with a good parts guy and you will be fine. 3) In pasture overseeding situations, if it is dry, the press wheels don't do anything to back fill the trench, we added the wavy coulters and a drag and that has helped. |
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| I am a red guy, but I have to say that a 750 will do a nice job. The big downside to them is they require the owner to be a bit more fussy with upkeep because they don't work worth a darn when parts are worn, and they aren't cheap to rebuild. But, if you get one cheap and go over it, it will be a long while with those acreages before you'd have to worry about it again if you keep after it with a grease gun and check it over after every season. |
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Person County NC | I'm happy with my gp 1006nt so far. I have 80-175 acres of soybeans/wheat depending on what the demand is for cash crops. Only have 700 acres on it, but not a hiccup yet.
Edited by hrcarver 11/3/2011 20:13
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Hertford, NC | Another vote for the 750. I know you can get a good one close to your price range also. I just sold a 15' that had almost no acres since all of the expensive wear items were replaced for $13,500. If you don't want to hire your planting done, you can justify the expense by planting with the 750 for others. There is always someone needing a no till job done for them (at least around here). An added bonus is that nearly every wear part is available aftermarket from Shoup. You can also make a really nice hot rod drill with aftermarket parts from Needham, Martin, Yetter, and others. |
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CO, NE | Seems like a lot of folks like the 750's. I'd like to get a used 20' one with 10" spacing and fertilizer. Pricing seems to be 15k-20k. (winter wheat, Nebraska Panhandle, 125hp tractor).
In a full no-till is it better to have something that's built for no-till like the 750? I've seen a lot of of DD opener drills with coulter caddy's. I wonder how they do in comparison.
On either, are they able to plant fairly deep? My dad always liked to plant 2-3" deep a couple of weeks later than everyone else. His reasoning was to prevent blowout and prevent against a late-season freeze.
My IH 150's get plugged up with weeds just sitting in the field, lol. |
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CNY | Have a GPNT. NT coulters controlled separate from drill with cylinder stops. Can run them deep to deal with stalks or keep raised for conventional. Set depth of individual drill openers separately same as corn planter. Previously had some custom NT done with a 750, seemed like a pain to adjust. Really heavy and rugged machine.
Edited by skicker 11/4/2011 08:18
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CO, NE | skicker - 11/4/2011 06:16
Have a GPNT. NT coulters controlled separate from drill with cylinder stops. Can run them deep to deal with stalks or keep raised for conventional. Set depth of individual drill openers separately same as corn planter. Previously had some custom NT done with a 750, seemed like a pain to adjust. Really heavy and rugged machine.
What model is your GPNT? Or is that just the model number? |
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Which no-till grain drill to buy???????
