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IL | Is there a reason to use a Bluejet Subtiller 4 over a subtiller II?
Will either mount up to a cat4 3pt of a CIH 9130? |
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| Is a Subtiller II auto reset? I'm not familiar with Blu Jets models but you most definitely want auto resets even if you "don't have rocks". |
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| I've got a sub tiller 4 and it's a beast. At the time it was more steel for less money than the DMI or JD. The sub tiller 4 has twin 7" x 7" x 3/8" tubing while subtiller II has twin 4" x 6" x 1/2" tubing. I would think you would want the 4 for that tractor. From their web site it specifically says the sub tiller II has pins for Cat II or III. Doesn't say anything about the sub tiller 4. I looked at a used sub tiller that was all beat up and they told me it was from using it 3 pt mounted on an articulated tractor. The side to side motion during turning was hard on the shanks. For articulated tractors they recommended pulling with a caddy. Mine has the spring reset as well as 3/4" shear bolts. The only time I've sheared a bolt is when pulling out roots in new ground. If you don't have rocks the shear bolt should be enough. If you ever trip it you've got to replace a 3/4" x 4" bolt. No big deal and nothing damaged. http://www.blu-jet.com/
Edited by bob1968 8/17/2011 07:56
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IL | makes sense. The sub II I was looking at has shear bolts, with the extra in between coulters. Like I was looking for. A friend has a 7 SH with a caddy. Maybe I can trip 2 shanks so I can pull it, but it does have the wide points on it, which I would want the narrowest |
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Graymont Illinois | I think the sub2 has gauge wheels behind, which can leave tracks in the lifted soil.
The sub4 has wheels in front, I think.
I was told my sub2 would benefit from the added coulters but I have not done that yet |
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| Neighbor here pulled a 7 shank CaseIh with an STX 285. How many ponies ya gor? |
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Ravenna Ohio | SubII can run gauge wheels front or back. Depends on vehicle clearance. I run rear. |
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Ravenna Ohio | I would skip a shear bolt only model. I have mouse trap trip. Gets agravating enough with those at times. I liked the weight transfer on the 3pt for a new field. Just had to be darned careful not to turn and twist shanks. You will be suprised just how much side force you can put on one. Only ever damaged one shank and it was a huge rock. Blu Jet came out before they warrantied it. I pull it mostly on a cart.
Don't let a mouse trap get worn. It will not hold. |
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IL | 220 |
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SESD | This might not be a good reason not to buy a Bluejet but last year at Dakota fest they took my name and information and promised me a demo machine last fall..... Well,,, i never heard from them and now own a 2500 case inline 5 shank ripper and really like it !! |
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IL | I am opent to either. Just like to break the compaction layer with out roughing up the surface. I found a used SubT II with the extra coulters on it, like a neighbor that did a quick demo for me last fall had, on a SubT 4. The one I spotted has the rear spike roller too. |
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Ethridge, TN | The rear roller will help if you have alot of compaction at breaking the chunks you are going to heave up.
With the horsepower you've got, 5 shank is about all you will want, especially if you get it down where you need it. If you don't get "below the compaction layer, it'll look worse than a chisel plow at what you are going to blow out. Get below the layer, and it should look like a "wave" going thru the shanks, soil raising up, breaking, and then falling back down.
Articulated tractor, you are best off with a pull type unit. If you really keep in mind that you need to stay straight when it's in the ground, you can do the 3-pt., but it's not really recommended, as you can really side stress the shanks.
As other poster mentioned, the Sub-tiller 4 is a heavier framed unit. We do have a Sub-tiller II, 11 shank, pull type, that I pull behind a STX485, and given the right conditions, can stop her dead in her tracks. |
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Blue jet in line ripper, which one?
