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SW Iowa | Do you take blades off to sharpen or can you sharpen them on the machine with a hand grinder? I bought a used batwing and the bolts holding the blades on have not been removed in awhile. |
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Chebanse, IL..... | We use electric or air grinder as you stated. We don't remove the blades until it's time to change them.
Remember to use your mechanical locks! |
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Lincoln County. NC | I used to sharpen them on the machine until I had a close encounter with a 7" grinder one day. Since then I figure if my customers want their blades sharpened on the machine, they can have at it; if I do it, they come off. If the blades come off even as seldom as once a year, they come off pretty easily and quickly if Never-Seize is used on the bolts. If you leave the blades on for years and have to fight to get them off to replace, the time is probably similar to removing them to sharpen each time. |
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Athens, Illinois | If you have a 3/4 air impact, take them off. ou can do a beter job sharpening and its safer. |
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| Ron..NE ILL..10/48 - 7/27/2011 19:06
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Remember to use your mechanical locks!
I remember seeing a guy sharpen blades on a rotary mower that he had hoisted in the air with a tractor loader. When I saw that, I thought now there's a Darwin award recipient.
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Brazilton KS | I can't say I've ever felt a need to sharpen blades on a brush mower. |
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Central Il Morton | In this area we are fortunate to have a blacksmith shop that can repair and sharpen blades for about 1/3 of new price.
I rotate a set 1 or 2 times each year. |
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SE Nebraska, Near Misery and Cans Ass! | I've got three sets. Takes 20 minutes too change them and a machine shop in town sharpens them in the winter with an old trip hammer and retempers them. I can't imagine not having sharp blades. Takes way too much horsepower. Maybe that's why I've yet to replace a gearbox on my 20 year old rhino. I have rebuilt the sides twice.
Edited by nebfarmer 7/27/2011 20:21
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Southeast Florida | Find someone or buy a tungsten powder coating kit to apply to the bottom side of the blades and they’ll sharpen their selves as they wear out. |
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mora | you got any more info on this? how does it tolerate rocks?
thanks!
kevin |
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Southeast Florida | What happen is the tungsten is harder than the metal used on the mower blades thus wears less. Somebody really good applying it will make the blades like razors as they wear down. The idea is to apply it as thin as possible to the bottom. I don’t know about running in rocks, but I have pretty good knowledge of running in sand. |
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Virginia | I've done them both ways. It's much safer and easier to remove them, clamp them in a vise, and sharpen with a 7" grinder. |
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Lincoln County. NC | plowboy - 7/27/2011 19:48
I can't say I've ever felt a need to sharpen blades on a brush mower.
Some folks actually mow grass with these machines, and blade sharpness (and edge shape) has a direct correlation to cut quality.
If the user doesn't care about the look of the finished job, sharpening is a waste of time. |
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Lincoln County. NC | Fla Veggie Farmer - 7/27/2011 20:19
What happen is the tungsten is harder than the metal used on the mower blades thus wears less. Somebody really good applying it will make the blades like razors as they wear down. The idea is to apply it as thin as possible to the bottom. I don’t know about running in rocks, but I have pretty good knowledge of running in sand.
Sounds interesting, but I'll bet stones and bedrock outcroppings would chip the tungsten and make that method less than useful in my area. |
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central - east central Minnesota - | RickB - 7/27/2011 19:28 plowboy - 7/27/2011 19:48 I can't say I've ever felt a need to sharpen blades on a brush mower. Some folks actually mow grass with these machines, and blade sharpness (and edge shape ) has a direct correlation to cut quality. If the user doesn't care about the look of the finished job, sharpening is a waste of time.
I find in brush clearing, sharp blades make as much difference as in grass . . . . takes less power and shreads better . . .
This is with a skidsteer low flow brush cutter ~
I do sharpen them mounted, with a hand grinder - untill they are so unbalanced that it shakes the deck. Then it's time for new ones.
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central - east central Minnesota - | RickB - 7/27/2011 19:30 Fla Veggie Farmer - 7/27/2011 20:19 What happen is the tungsten is harder than the metal used on the mower blades thus wears less. Somebody really good applying it will make the blades like razors as they wear down. The idea is to apply it as thin as possible to the bottom. I don’t know about running in rocks, but I have pretty good knowledge of running in sand. Sounds interesting, but I'll bet stones and bedrock outcroppings would chip the tungsten and make that method less than useful in my area.
Yup . .. rocks are harder then the tungsten. They still chip out ~ |
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Greenwood MO | forget that heavy dangerous grinder we use the torch and make them look like saw blades ,very easy and effective |
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sw corner ia. | my rhino is older than that and I sharpen them every year on the machine with a hand grinder.Takes less than 30 minutes. Love my old flex 20. |
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Southwest Missouri | I had that idea. We had some dull blades. I made a quick jig so that I could hold the torch at a proper angle. I "sharpened" all six blades much quicker than I could ever have sharpened them.
When I started using it here in the Ozarks, I hit a few rocks. Not many because our fields are pretty good. Yet, the blades broke. It appears that the torch changed the metal and made it brittle. I bought new blades and now either use the Plowboy philosophy or buy new ones. |
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Edson, Alberta, Canada | I have a 7 foot Farm King, (now Buhler I think?) and I removed the blades the second year I owned it to try and sharpen them. I don't think they had ever been removed as it was a battle to get them off the first time. Since a liberal application of Never Seize and a cleaning they are easy to get off/on.
I tried to sharpen my blades with my grinder but damn that is hard steel! About the best I could get is an edge about as thick as my baby finger. We have lots of rock here so not sure a nice fine edge would last long anyways but it would be nice to have some sembalance of an edge for cutting the grass and light brush. I have found any rock "coffee cup" size just turns to dust upon impact. Some a bit larger get broken into pieces and scattered and anything larger than that generally causes a ruckus back there and I have to lift over it. All I have ever done to balance my blades is balance them across dead center then beam balance the two together. Close is close enough and away I go. I think I should buy new blades so will have to find a Buhler dealer nearby I guess.
Regards,
Dave. |
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Sharpening blades on batwing
