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| We purchased a 196? JD 4010 gas this last summer that we are going to use as a loader tractor. By serial # it was built during the last year they were made, but I can't remember what year that was. It has what appears to be 2400 hours. The tractor is not beat all to pieces, so we think that the hours are right. While it has been run, it has not had a lot of use for the last 15+ years. As we want a good starting, reliable loader tractor we have tried to update/redo the tractor without spending big $$$ yet. We had to clean and reline gas tank, new fuel pump, installed electronic ignition, new plugs, all new wiring harnesses, and a new long skinny battery, (which won't hold a charge for more than 2 weeks). We did clean the carb which appears to be the original aluminum bodied carb. While the tractor will eventually start, it certainly isn't the easiest/most realiable starter on the place. It also wants to cough and it seems like I have to be adjusting the choke way more than any other tractor. We priced a new carb from mother deere and it was $700+, so that wasn't a real desirable solution at this time . Is there a fuel injection unit that we can convert it too? I read somewhere that the long skinny battery was kind of junk and to install a regular sized rectangle battery on it. Good idea or bad? Shortly after we bought this tractor we were at another place and the guy had the same type of 4010 gas as ours and it ran like #$%# also, and he was a JD mechanic. That kind of makes me wonder about the tractor. Thanks for the help. |
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| Fuel injection for gas engines was a dream when those tractors were made. Reason there is only 2400 hours is that they were a fuel pig. |
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Pontiac, IL. | You have to have a drain on the battery somewhere, or a bad battery. the shape has nothing to do with it. As for the carb, don't know what to tell you, we had a 3010gas, and a 4020 gas, both ran terrible till you got them fully warmed up. |
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Schlegel Farms, Hagerstown Indiana | Just a thought, but you seem to be saying it has starting issues as the main concern.
When its running spray some starting fluid around and make sure the intake gaskets are all good.
................................Mark |
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Texas | Im thinking about changing our 4010 lp to a gasoline burner , It runs perfect ,i might have to rethink that .
The 4010 LP uses ALOT of fuel .,mine is a loader tractor too . |
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ND | Deere never could make a gas engine that you didn't have to fiddle with it all the time. |
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| Roberts Carb down in Iowa has new Zenith carbs that are supposed to improve the running of those gassers. Not cheap. But if this carb works as good as their highly regarded two cyl rebuilds it should be the ticket. http://www.robertscarbrepair.com/display.asp?id=629&sra=8 |
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Walnut Grove MN USA | The long skinny batteries are junk in my opinion, swap it out for a regular and then you don't worry about it so much. Did that on my 4020 diesel and lots of starting issues went away. You can convert it to fuel injection but it isn't likely to be a bolt on affair. Check out this site http://www.fuelairspark.com/ they can maybe help you out. They work mostly with cars but who knows? |
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Hagen Brothers farms,Goodrich ND | I run a 64 4020 gas, first year for 4020 so your late 4010 would be a 63.
The aluminum carb was a real bad deal, the big iron carb with vacuum accelerator pump was not much better.
In my opinion the carb on the 4020 was much oversize for the application and runs poor at anything but full load. I fitted a smaller carb off a Moline U model which makes it a much better and cheaper running engine for partial load yard work . I use it to run a 13 inch grain auger so power is down little if any.
You already did the electronic ignition thing, so I need not go into how weak the stock point ignition was.
If you still have the original Delco 10MT starter, I don't have to tell you about the poor cranking / starting. I put a spiral cell Exide Orbital AGM battery with heavy cables in a box right by the starter and replaced the whimpy 10MT starter with a direct replacement 20MT starter that has twice the cranking power of original. The starter , battery, carb and electronic ignition makes it start at 30 below with no protest, no steering wheel winding during starting or any such crap.
The small carb does better fuel mixing at less than full throttle and the hot electronic ignition lets me lean out the mixture for cheaper running engine where you don't need to run it overly rich to compensate for the stock weak ignition system.
With the carb and ignition mods they run dead smooth, never know it is the same former slobbering, smoking at low speed tractor
Edited by Jon Hagen 1/2/2011 00:19
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Brazilton KS | Tommy, don't do it. Everything about LP is better. |
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| That Marvel-Schebler die cast carburetor is a bear to tune. There's a big diaphragm that tends to split but not be replaced. It was such a b to tune that I have a service bulletin from Deere that says change to the Zenith. Many were changed. Zenith was also shipped from the factory, I don't know how they determined which tractors got which carburetor.
Get thee an operator's manual and the SM-2039 shop manual and ye can make it purr, though the section on tuning the MS carb is several times larger than the section on tuning the Zenith.
You can buy a new Zenith from Abiline, Shoup, and others for about $500 I think yet. Prices have been going up on that option.
Reading the op manual you'll find that carb heat needs to be on up to about 90 degrees unless plowing then it can be turned off at 70 degrees.
You need to check the intake plumbing to remove all the mud daubers, wasp, and bird nests. And then make sure the sheath of the choke cable is anchored near the carburetor, else you won't be getting full choke for starting or getting choke off for smooth and economical running. With anything but a NEW Zenith carburetor, its worth the few bucks to replace float needle valve and seat because it tends to wear from vibration and over feed the engine with fuel.
The first year my 4020 burned 400 gallons, after I tuned up and cleaned up, it got down to 250 doing the same field work plowing and all. It as a consumer of gas, though I plowed, disked, and planted the same ground with a MF-135 on about 135 gallons a year but it took 4 times as many operating hours.
Be sure the new plug wires are copper, not carbon. That will make a difference too. And forget that Champion made spark plugs they don't last in a vintage engine anymore.
The old generator wasn't great at charging, its only 20 amps and that takes a while each start to charge the battery. When I added an ammeter all I got was it bouncing from peg to peg even after I cleaned up the commutator and replaced the very worn generator pulley. My 4020 has an alternator and it charges in about 20 minutes after a hard start and batteries last three or four years instead of one with the long skinny battery and the generator. While ampere hours of the long skinny battery are comparable to a short battery, the long connecting bars inside cut down the cranking amps and the cold cranking amps. I built a new step and battery shelf for my 4020. It uses a side terminal battery to keep mud on top from drawing the battery down. I've different tires than any factory option too. Better for spraying.
Gerald J. |
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Ohio | I'm really surprised some mechanical tinker with McGiuger capabilitys has not put together a fuel injection/crank sensored ignition/ computer controlled system from a automotive application that could be picked up in junk yards. This wouldn't be for the " keep it all original" bunch. But with all the gains that these improvements have made on the auto side, why couldn't they have the same effect on these older applications? |
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NE Mo | We had the same problem. Rebuilt the MS carb several times, but still had the same problem.
The problem is, - -- the new carb kits do not include the diaphram on the back of the carb. It is a bad/difficult design to understand even for the best carb man you can find. But that diaphram, if bad will make the tractor run bad. ( always loaded up on gas ) that little diaphram is expensive and not really easy to change, but it will make a difference in how the tractor runs.
It took several rebuilds, and a couple of different people working on this carb to finally find the problem.
Hope this helps |
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| i've read that a carb off a olly makes the run good, I think off off of 1800 olly.. |
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North Central Iowa | I finally ended up replacing the gas engine in my 4020 with a diesel out of a combine. Best thing I ever did to that tractor. It took a lot of time but the end result was worth it. I've still got the gas engine if anybody is looking for one. Any ideas on what it's worth? I'd like to put it on Agtalk+ but I have no idea what to ask for it. |
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NW Iowa | I'd recommend roberts carburetor in spencer or Jon Hagen!! the will drain your wallet in fuel and maintaince expense otherwise!! |
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| Three duces side draft carbs ought to work well and have a vacuum tap for a vacuum advance for the ignition for part load that would show a significant increase in fuel economy. Like off a vintage 6 cylinder Corvette. That lack of ignition advance for part load is one thing most farm tractors show, and then the yard long intake manifold on the 4020 leads to condensation on the way to the end cylinders and three side draft carburetors would work better. Condensation means, the mix for the center cylinders is different from the end cylinders so its hard to lean it for efficiency.
Gerald J. |
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west tn | yeap we rebiult several 430 4020 420 4010 630 an all of them have roberts carb put on them we rebuilding a 430 u now |
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nw Iowa | To GregIn NCIA-- What combine engines work in the JD tractors? Is there a way to tell by serial#. I have a fairly low hr. 7700,113,000 serial #, trying to sell combine or junk it out. Thanks, jps |
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nw Iowa | To GregIn NCIA-- What combine engines work in the JD tractors? Is there a way to tell by serial#. I have a fairly low hr. 7700,113,000 serial #, trying to sell combine or junk it out. Thanks, jps |
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Hagen Brothers farms,Goodrich ND | jps51248 - 1/3/2011 12:15
To GregIn NCIA-- What combine engines work in the JD tractors? Is there a way to tell by serial#. I have a fairly low hr. 7700,113,000 serial #, trying to sell combine or junk it out. Thanks, jps
I have a late 105 combine engine in my 4020, 241 CI I believe. Bought a nice running 2400 hr engine for a few hundred $$. I much perfer the combine spin on oil filter compared to the tractor engines cartridge in the pan type.
Had to reuse the manifolds and governor linkage from the tractor engine along with the hyd pump driver pulley and water pump. The combine oil pan fits the tractor mounting flange. |
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nw Iowa | Thanks for the reply, Jon!!! jps |
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| Not sure if this will help but we have a 63 4010 gas with the marvel carburetor and up until 2 years ago it was the loader tractor we used everyday for chores and it always started and ran good but last year it started running like crap and was hard to start. Our problem ended up being the air cleaner pipe as above the oil bath canister there is what looks like a doughnut in the pipe going up to the air intake above the hood and that doughnut was full of debris. The only reason we found that was because we had a shed go down last winter and it bent the air stack so we had to replace it. I know when I was younger we would plow with the 4010 gas and a 4020 diesel with both pulling a 4 bottom plow and the 4010 would take about a gallon an hour more than the 4020. I've had the best luck with ngk spark plugs. |
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JD 4010 gas ?
