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rowcropper |
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SC | I have a pole barn with concrete floor thats always had mice and I haven't done much about it. I'm going to be putting pallets of bagged soybean seed in next week and they will be sitting until next June. I usually put a box of mothballs in every pallet and around the floor but always get damage. I though I would build a curtain out of old roofing tin to circle the pallets about 4 feet high. I screwed some sheets together today with sheet metal screws and they seal against the floor pretty well. Can they climb where the joints overlap on 5V tin? Can they jump over 4 feet? I did a search and saw where some others have enclosed other stuff. Did it work? I also built three of the 5 gal. bucket traps today that I read about on ag talk. Time to get poison too. Any advice welcome. | ||
Rusty6 |
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S.E. Sask. | Well I know they can't jump out of a 20 litre (5 gallon) pail once they are in it. | ||
Gifford |
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East Kansas, DeSoto | I had to mouse proof a food factory once and they seem to be able to run and jump up about 2 feet and then climb quite a while before they fall off. I put a stainless steel 3 feet wide about one foot off the ground completely around the plant, spaced the steps away from docks and sealed all cracks and spaced ladders to dock away from platforms. They can disjoint and go through unimaginable small cracks. Spent something like $30,000 to do it. Big plant. 25 percent of our budget was sanitation. We still had tunnel traps everywhere inside and out. Gifford Edited by Gifford 11/25/2010 22:15 | ||
iseedit |
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central - east central Minnesota - | rowcropper - 11/25/2010 20:23 I have a pole barn with concrete floor thats always had mice and I haven't done much about it. I'm going to be putting pallets of bagged soybean seed in next week and they will be sitting until next June. I usually put a box of mothballs in every pallet and around the floor but always get damage. I though I would build a curtain out of old roofing tin to circle the pallets about 4 feet high. I screwed some sheets together today with sheet metal screws and they seal against the floor pretty well. Can they climb where the joints overlap on 5V tin? Can they jump over 4 feet? I did a search and saw where some others have enclosed other stuff. Did it work? I also built three of the 5 gal. bucket traps today that I read about on ag talk. Time to get poison too. Any advice welcome. Ya, that may work. I had a couple live ones in a deep window well. I climbed down there to get them out (kill them). They were able to jump as high as my knees (about 2ft). They were "excited" when jumping that height, as I was trying to stomp them. One thing that makes a difference (here anyway, with our climate). Is pre baiting (feeding) them. Our mice don't move too much in the depth of winter, so prebaiting them with poision blocks in bait stations work well for me. Bait stations keep the mice from hording, bringing the food back to their nest for consumption latter. Bait stations force them to feed right then and there, causing death faily soon there after. As Gifford pointed out, mice can get through holes/cracks as small as a #2 pencil eraser. So your metal barricade needs to be very tight against the floor. They shouldn't be able to climb or cling on to the metal, if it is clean and bright. Heres a pic of a bait stattion with secured chunk bait ~ TomKat or Hawk bait chunks is what I use . . . Edited by iseedit 11/25/2010 21:47 (mouse_49.jpg) Attachments ---------------- mouse_49.jpg (16KB - 443 downloads) | ||
MOjeeper |
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NEMO | Pretty high I guess, I'm still trying to figure this one out. (101_5473.jpg) (101_5476.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 101_5473.jpg (22KB - 466 downloads) 101_5476.jpg (40KB - 432 downloads) | ||
nd mike |
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wahpeton, nd | I would guess that the mouse was on top of door when it was up, he rode the door down and got his tail caught when the door bottomed out. | ||
tommyw-5088 |
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Texas | The secret is to kill off a generation of mice , about the only thing i have ever had work was poison . It does not seem to matter what brand , they all work . A good plan would be to bait outside the shed before you put poison inside . Mice stink when they die in a shed . Cats help too , i have 2 cats , but despise them almost as much as mice . | ||
swcil |
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Macoupin County IL | When you use moth balls do you cover the pallets I have always heard to cover the pallets with clear plastic after you treat with moth balls don't make it a dark place let light in has worked for me in the past. | ||
Ron..NE ILL..10/48 |
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Chebanse, IL..... | Do you think the TomCat or Hawk bait chunks work? I have doubts on the potency of the product. I buy them from local Farm & Fleet in little 5# buckets. Have for a long time. I fed a few (apparently) mice in a little enclosed building for 4-5 weeks this fall. They just ate the chunks. I kept expecting to find dead or dying mice. I didn't. Just a LOT of mouse crap. I probably spent $50 or more on chunks. I could've fed a steer to butcher weight cheaper. They did not seem to be slowing up at all. Finally gave up & bought BIG sticky traps. I caught the 2 (or maybe it was 3) offenders (now dead) & there is no more evidence of mice in the building. Same in our shop building. Bait chunks just disappeared (in portions). Sticky traps are immediate. I realize bait doesn't kill them on the spot, but I think I'm patient enough to know when it's time to give up. When I was a kid in the FFA in the early-mid '60s, we sold "rat bait" that killed mice & rats. No doubt about it, it worked. I'm sure it was probably too potent for today's green society. | ||
SamsDad |
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Western EC Iowa | Restack the bags so there is airspace between them. If they are stacked 6 in a layer, instead of four one way and two the other, just do 3 one way and two the other and alternate. If they don't have to burrow, they won't and won't make as big of a mess. First time dad said 'go restack all of those bags' I just shook my head and did what I was told. No more shaking head, we just do it. For some reason it works. I would certainly kill the mice too. Ben | ||
Mlebrun |
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SW MN and Gold Canyon AZ | I had a mouse get into one of my curtain controler boxes in my finisher barn. It was a 2 ft gap from the curtain to the box. The box had a small hole from the factory. Saw a mouse jump from the curtain into the hole effortlessly. He made such a mess in the curtain box eating the wires I had to replace all of it. I never underestimated them after that. I use bait boxes ,sticky traps, regular traps(baited with peanut butter) ect... One must constantly keep after them. Recently started up a hot water presure washer and COOKED A MOUSE and nest inside the burner coils. This washer was stored inside my finisher office that has traps everywhere and bait boxes !! Evidently he avoided all my deaths traps for awhile. Never underestimate what they can get into. | ||
movit |
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NC Iowa | IF they did their job, they just send the mice elsewhere... Aannd, I've taken sacks off pallets, with plastic around them, to find nests right over a bunch of mothballs... My best luck has been to throw some poison sacks under the pallet.. | ||
iseedit |
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central - east central Minnesota - | Ron..NE ILL..10/48 - 11/26/2010 06:11 Do you think the TomCat or Hawk bait chunks work? I have doubts on the potency of the product. I buy them from local Farm & Fleet in little 5# buckets. Have for a long time. I fed a few (apparently) mice in a little enclosed building for 4-5 weeks this fall. They just ate the chunks. I kept expecting to find dead or dying mice. I didn't. Just a LOT of mouse crap. I probably spent $50 or more on chunks. I could've fed a steer to butcher weight cheaper. They did not seem to be slowing up at all. Finally gave up & bought BIG sticky traps. I caught the 2 (or maybe it was 3) offenders (now dead) & there is no more evidence of mice in the building. Same in our shop building. Bait chunks just disappeared (in portions). Sticky traps are immediate. I realize bait doesn't kill them on the spot, but I think I'm patient enough to know when it's time to give up. When I was a kid in the FFA in the early-mid '60s, we sold "rat bait" that killed mice & rats. No doubt about it, it worked. I'm sure it was probably too potent for today's green society. They work for me. Are you secureing them? If they are just tossed in a corner or along a wall loose, the mice will drag'em back to the nest for a future picnic - I had dead mice all over the outside of sheds this fall. I know I had dead mice in the shed walls and such (smelled them a couple different times), but seen, I bet, over 100 dead ones outside, around the different builds I poision. I do believe it good to rotate the different types of poisions in the bait. I have never had good luck with D-Con type baits . . . . . I do not have livestock anymore on this farm so seeds/feed is limited as to weed seeds and such out away from the buildings. It's easier for me to keep things cleaned up and the mice have to travel out away from the buildings to forage for food or eat what is supplied in the buildings. Keeping pet food sealed in containers helps also. | ||
Dirtfarmer Jake |
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Drumheller, Alberta | I seen one jump up a ring in a steel bin we where cleaning, then ran up the seem of the next across another and started up again till the rattling walls made him fall to his death under my shovel. | ||
feelnrite |
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northwest tennessee | The Tomcat works real well but I dont like the bar. I use the pellets and just throw the packs out and they eat through the package. They dont seem to eat the bar as well or as fast on the front end. | ||
Ron..NE ILL..10/48 |
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Chebanse, IL..... | Actually, we use both. I get more mouse activity out of the bar. Sometimes they don't mess with the pkg. iseedit, I'm not sure why there's a need to "secure" the bar? I put the bar (it's a green chunk about 1"x1"x2") out one day & then check on it the next day. I can see a 1/2 eaten bar with crumbs & crap everywhere nearby. Then, the following day there's only a few crumbs remaining, but more crap. I'm guessing that if I were to put out 100# in 30 days, they'd eat it. I gave up & trapped them on stickys. They're dead now. Actually, it wouldn't be prudent of me to describe my lack of compassion for their suffering while 3 or 4 of their feet are stuck. Also, mice are cannibalistic, if anyone cares. Also, mice will freeze when temps dip below freezing & they're stuck to sticky traps. OK...sorry, I'll quit. This is a new day & compassion is the key word....right. | ||
QuAppelle |
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Sask | We've got mostly deer mice around here and some voles or field mice. I think the occasional deer mouse can jump out of a 5 gallon pail, but a jumping mouse can with the greatest of ease. We used to see jumping mice back when we were still cutting oats with a binder and threshing them. They'd be under the stooks and would make a jump for it when we picked them up. I'd say they could jump at least 3 feet. The last one I saw cleared the edge of the pail by close to a foot. BTW, Rusty, I'm not that far from you. You know the old stone school on 310? I took my grade school there. | ||
Rusty6 |
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S.E. Sask. | QuAppelle - 11/27/2010 19:44 We've got mostly deer mice around here and some voles or field mice. . BTW, Rusty, I'm not that far from you. You know the old stone school on 310? I took my grade school there. I know that school, the name escapes me now of course. Yes, deer mice are the biggest plague here although not so bad this fall. Guess my 9 cats are earning their keep. | ||
QuAppelle |
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Sask | Violette School, named after an early teacher. | ||
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