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| Any tips on how to go about changing this belt? Have not changed this one before so thought I would ask. |
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ecmn | you will need to make a tool, nothing hard to do, if you have an old heavy duty adjustable wrench you might be able to trim it narrow enough to fit.
we took some 1/2" flat stock and cut a tight 5/8 notch in it, then welded a solid 1" about a foot or so long handle. when you lift the panel under the seat you will see the pump. on the shaft there is a flat spot, that is where the tool goes. make sure you tool fits tight on that flat spot. then you take a hammer and beat it loose. standard thread so you hit the handle down.
1. remove seat and lift access panel.
2. on the big shield around the rear pulley there is 3 bolts, remove them 1 from the cab and the other two you can get from the ground.
3. take your homemade wrench, and losen pump shaft.
4. remove pump from bracket.
5. you should be able to sneak off belt and new one on.
6. move your engagement handle and you will see the linkage where you adjust the tension on the new belt.
set your adjustment. and reverse all steps.
if you have a second hand to help you its not a bad idea. in the shop this would be about a 1 hour ticket. |
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| thanks that will help out. |
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| You missed out on ALOT of steps..... |
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ecmn | yeah you have to unplug the wires that go to the electric clutch. ha! there are the ground drive belts but i would like to think that he will be able to see that they are in the way?
not to much more to put down as its a pretty straight forward deal.
Edited by easymoney 10/1/2010 15:01
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| 1 Lift seat , remove top shield directly under seat. loosen and remove 3/4 head bolts on shield directly under seat. Loosen 2 9/16 head stub bolts, remove burrs and shield
2 Loosen the spring that controls tenson on the hydro belts with an impact wrench. These 2 belts will have to be removed as the drive belt will have to be slipped under the belts
3 remove electric clutch module on end of primary countershaft. Loosen bolts on shield around electic clutch
4 If you do it quick and fast , only loosen oil hoses to pump on end (have NEW or the old one at the ready) and slip old/new past pump. A little oil mess but no need to pull pump off shaft. Connct oil hosesback up (On 8820 s there is no pump on said shaft)
5 Lift up on hydro belt pulley to jump top matched belts off and jump /put new drive belt on electric clutch pulley
6 slide belt onto front pulley (helps to have a helper to turn electric clutch till belt is in grooves)
7assemble shields to original settings and put hydro belts back on
8 impact tighten spring tightener till hydro belts are tight enough
9 should take around 30 - 45 minutes with 1 or 2 helpers
Easy money , get a clue as to what has to be done.... |
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NESD | You forgot to put the electric clutch module back on also the seperator drive belt tension adjustment should be checked. lol |
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ecmn | sorry I have never changed a combine belt, saw pictures of it done once.
relax a little there girly, no need to get your pig tails all in a bunch.
I have only changed out about 50 of them belts when i was at the dealer but excuse me that i didnt go get the book just wrote down how in my head I go about it. |
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| One q , if you changed 50, why no mention of the hydro belts?? hmmm bs flag thrown |
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| Good info posted so far. It's also a darn good time to replace unloading auger belt and platform reel pump drive belt and look carefully at the condition of all the other belts that you are removing to replace the separator drive belts. Also make sure you get your belt traps adjusted properly to avoid burning and scuffing the new separator drive belts. It helps to have the special heavy tool for removing the hydraulic pump but is not necessary. I always use anti-sieze on the threads of the pump when I put it back on too. I think I remember you said you did not have the correct manual for your machine. I'm always willing to help out a fellow 20 series machine owner with any details or help I can provide. Here are the pages out of my 6620 TII book describing the process. Your 7720 should be the same. Sorry for the huge pics but wanted you to be able to clearly see the dimensions and details.
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| Think you had also previously asked about the single range vs dual range and how to change the dual range. Here are the pages for that as well. 
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Palestine, IL 62451 | After 15yrs of running red the green nightmares return. Real nice location of reel pump drive belt. |
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| wow von we,re lucky to have you |
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| Did get belt changed. Could not get the pump off end of drive shaft so had to remove the hoses instead. ( threw a plastic sheet under to keep oil off machine. If anyone is looking to complete follow the book for the most part ( hoses off vs pump ). Only extra thing I had to do was move a brace that the eletric clucth ground is wired to as the belt would not bend and fit in. ( small job ).
Just a slow process with limited space.
Thanks again to all the above who posted. |
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| The special pump removal tool really helps as it fits very tight and you can really hit it good with a hammer. I've had limited luck using any wrench they always want to spread or round over the shaft.
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ecmn | deere_9600 - 10/1/2010 17:46
One q , if you changed 50, why no mention of the hydro belts?? hmmm bs flag thrown
when i was at the dealership the big question was always "how do we get the belt around that pump?" they all could easily see the other belts and things, that is why i made a point to describe how to make the tool. |
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Lenawee Co Michigan | Solution: Link-Belt® |
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7720 - separator drive belt change
