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SW MN | I did a search and found a few things but I have a few questions. I have a gear and it has 6x6 stringes on it already just have to add a bed and back. I am going to use 2x6 for bed and put some flashing down on stringes first. Should i screw or nail the 2x6's to the stringers down. It will be 18-20 feet long and probably have a inch and a half gap between 2x6's with about 2 feet over hang on front and back. The back I am not sure yet on as ther are many ways to build so I was looking for some pics. Also do I bolt the stringers to the gear in opposit corners, all four or just back and tie down in front. It will be used for small squares. Thanks |
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| I know you say it will be used for small squares but if you have any thoughts of ever loading it with big squares or rounds 6x6's aren't big enough stringers for a 20' long bed.
6x8's minimum, 8"x10" better.
A big load of heavy small squares could be too much for 6x6's.
I'd screw the deck boards on, makes replacing a broken one so much easier.
We don't put backs on racks anymore, they just get in the way all the time.
Just tie the bed down to the front of the gear so it doesn't slide back or tip up. |
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Eastern Ia. | Bolt it all together. |
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SW MN | Thanks for the info. It won't be used for big squares or rounds anytime soon and if I would go to rounds or big squares I would build bigger. I will have to double check the stringers on size but they may be bigger. It was used for a round bale trailer before I bought it. |
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| Your stringers (sills) are too small. Mine are 8 x 8 nominal. I'm also rebuilding one, the new sills are still at the sawmill. A friend suggested covering the tops of the sills with used roofing sheet metal, if the wagons sit outside unused 9 months of the year; keeps rain/snow from standing and rotting them out again.
Building a safe wagon should be the first consideration. Don't nail -- they'll come loose and you'll trip on the raised nailhead. I use galvanized lag screws and washers, countersunk in for a flat surface. Use a 2x4 on both sides, bolted on the boards with carriage bolts. It will keep the ends of the boards even and not flexing, spread the load and you can feel the edge of the wagon with it without looking (can't see your feet if carrying a bale, avoid falling off the wagon.)
Are you towing the wagon right behind the baler? Do you want the chute to overlap the wagon or come out short? If the chute goes right over the wagon, bevel the front edge of the top to make the chute slide easier should it touch. Round off the front edges of the corners of the aforementioned 2x4's so the chute can't snag them on low corners when the chute touches.
My racks are bolted down on all four corners --- it seems to flex OK. Avoid surprises should inexperienced help misbalance the wagon if they unloaded all one side first. |
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| http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=175155&mid=126... |
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| I use 8 inch I beam or a 10 inch channel iron for my runners, |
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| Those edging 2x4 also help keep the load from sliding off.
Gerald J. |
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Shaftsbury, Vermont (SW VT) | Getting started on rebuilding a flat wagon on an old Case gear my Father-in-law bought when he first started farming. He'd sold the gear, and I found it and bought it back. Cleaned it up and painted it 13-14 years ago and built a 7x14 rack on it. I used 4x6 Douglas Fir that the power company took down from a transformer support. Free wood is best, you know!! It wasn't treated and the carpenter ants made a mess of it; the hemlock deck rotted off, too.
Going heavier duty this time. Had some White Oak stringers sawed out, just got going on it Sunday afternoon. Going to use treated 4x4's for cross pieces, with a 2x6 on the outside edge. I may make the whole deck with 2x6's, but since it's going to not see much weight, I might use 5/4 decking boards. I did price them, and the 2x6 is cheaper.
 (wagon and tim's mower 008.jpg)
 (wagon and tim's mower 009.jpg)
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 wagon and tim's mower 008.jpg (53KB - 444 downloads)
wagon and tim's mower 009.jpg (45KB - 453 downloads)
wagon and tim's mower 010.jpg (53KB - 416 downloads)
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SW MN | Got it built and I sandwhiched the 6x6's with 2x10's and it is 18' long. Will be baling straw soon so we will tel how it hold up. Thanks fo all the help. |
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Building a Hay rack ?'s. Post some pics of yours.
