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Upstate New York | I'm not sure what the correct name for them are but who makes the best piece for applying nh3 that bolts on the back of chisel plow shanks and uses a regular points on the front. I used to get really good ones from someone that made them on EBAY but now I can't get them anymore. I found a 94' Fertilizer Dealer Supply catalog today that had some that looked to be good quality, I'll call them tomorrow to see if they still carry them. I've tried the ones that Shoup carries and their garbage! Thanks! |
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| They still sold them as of last year. Good Luck! |
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Middle Tennessee | Try Wako in Enid OK they make most of the knives and plow points on the market. |
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Yates , MO (north central) | Wiese has them.
http://www.wieseindustries.com/documents/reference/December2008_Kni... |
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Upstate New York | I want the ones that do not do any tillage, bolt on the back of the shank and my own chisel point goes on the front of the shank. All the ones in the wiese catalog were doing some type of tillage. I'll take a pic tomorrow. |
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Slicker than a Yes album. | What flavor of shank? These are wiese on Deere's Tru Depth. We had the knives shipped as is, welded on an extra long tube to get the hose joint out of the residue flow.
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Dalhart Texas | We have used home made adapters that bolt on the back of a sunflower coulter chisel or Landoll coulter chisel to inject NH3. The pics are on my other laptop. I will email them to you tomorrow. You can run any point that will bolt onto their shank. Less than $10 to make per shank, never plug and last 10,000 acres or more... |
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| Find some black 1/8 inch pipe and weld it to a small rectangle piece of flat that fits on your chisel point bolts behind the shank. Weld the pipe so it goes beside your bolts and lays against the shank. Get is as close to the center as you can and still be able to get the nuts on the point bolts. Bend the bottom of the tube toward the middle so the NH3 sprays toward the end of the point. It doesn't need to be very long under the bottom bolt. Leave the pipe open on the end and cut it off at a sharp angle leaving the long side on the front. it is a lot easier to clean out if it plugs. If the ground is dry it won't ever plug.
Make the 1/8 inch pipe about 14" long. Long enough to reach above the thrown dirt or it will be hard to keep your 3/8 rubber hose on the top end of it. All the top end needs is a loop of wire tying it to the shank.
It is cheap and easy.
MoTerry |
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Brazilton KS | Get some black 1/8" pipe and simply weld it to the back of the points. Bend around the back of the shank and away you go. |
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Upstate New York | Plowboy, I have been thinking about doing just what you said but do you stop above the nuts ? I just worry about sealing if I don't go below them. |
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Sumner County Kansas "The Wheat Capital" | http://www.fairbankequipment.com/ has tubes that bolt to back of existing tooth. I use them on my field cultivator. |
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Brazilton KS | I weld the tube to the back of the point below where it bolts to the shank, then bend the tube back about 90o to clear the shank, then bend it again to go up. Been doing them that way for quite a few years and it eliminated a lot of trouble. About the only time one gets replaced is if it gets smashed. Also, just miter the bottom end of the tube. Nothing it gained by drilling holes and pinching the end, it just makes them more prone to plugging. That's to crowbar for that bit of wisdom.
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NH3 and chisel plows
