|
|
Chebanse, IL..... | It fell off on pg 2, but I was going to ask Mike Hofer (redline) how he wired his lights. http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=154461&mid=1108734#M1108734 He doesn't show an email, so I'll ask here. How does one go about making an adapter or whatever so you can operate gooseneck trailer (5th whl) from a conventional semi-tractor? Most of the goosenecks have combination brake/turn vs separates for the semi-trailers...right? Also, how do you get a brake light to the gooseneck? We also wire our goosenecks & bumper hitch trailers using a semi-type 7 pin, but we use a wiring pattern similar to those of farm equipment. Except, we use the "1-o'clock" position for elec brakes & the center pin for +12V. So, how is the turn/brake problem solved? Here's our 7pin wire diagram for our trailers/goosenecks, obviously not for the semi-tractors however. Thanks 
|
|
| |
|
| On my volvo I had to wire in one of these then to a 7way trailer plug
 (118158.gif)
Attachments
----------------
 118158.gif (11KB - 1960 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Aberdeen MS | My goose neck is a 6 pin. I just tapped into the tail light assembly (brake and turns are combined) on the Pete and put an extra plug in the back.
I added the GN ball at the back of the frame for the GN, sits lower than the 5th wheel, and my clearance with the Pete's back axle was tight for the mud flap clearance. Also, this way, I don't have to change the GN from the PU to the Pete for height of the latch.
I have a flat blade 7 to 6 pin converter, but don't think I've seen a 7 round to a 6 round, probably out there someplace tho. |
|
| |
|
Central Iowa | Oh no! My cover is blown! Just kidding ya. I ended up tracking circuits back to the firewall and ignoring the pigtail that has the 7 pin connector. I instead have a 6 pin connector installed that is only used with the gooseneck, and a 7 pin on a pigtail for standard trailers. The tractor is set up to operate the brake lights and turn signals on the tractor itself with the typical dual filament bulbs, much like a straight truck or pickup. The pigtail, as you are aware has the turn signals separate from the brake lights, and would require an adapter to combine the brake and turn currents. Probably could get creative with diodes and such, but more than likely you could tap into the tractor circuit near the rear tractor lights. The brake controller is wired just like the controllers in pickups, by finding the brake light switch. The two tractors I have done are both Macks, an R model and now a CH 613, I can only assume the other brands are similar. 
|
|
| |
|
doland sd | IM WONDERING WHO THE THE MIKE HOFER IS I MIGHT HIM AND CAN TELL YOU IF HE KNOWS ANYTHING
[email protected] |
|
| |
|
| When we wired our old FLC 120 ('86) to use on the gn a few years ago we had to purchase a similiar adaptor to make the wiring work. Evidently Freightliner changed their wiring as when we wired the '00 FLD 120 for the gn we didn't have to use an adaptor, just wired into the existing wiring, though if I remember right we did have to run a wire back from the controller for the brakes (not brake lights).
Edited by boog 3/7/2010 13:19
|
|
| |
|
Central Illinois | Ron, I have an purchased adapter Male 7 round to Female 6 round. Problem is that it combines the upper and lower clearance light circuits on the semi together. You can imagine the nightmare this created back feeding the circuits on the truck or farm tractor when used. Use extreme caution when trying use these. I ended up making specialized adapters for use with the AG tractors only, and for Trucks only. |
|
| |
|
Athens, Illinois | Greywolf has it right. Also some trucks have a wiring harness to the back of the frame just for that.
Edited by another round 3/7/2010 13:22
|
|
| |
|
Ethridge, TN | Ron,
I started to do what you are talking about one time. Took me very little time to decide it isn't worth the effort. Forget about the standard trailer pigtail. Go to your rear tractor lights, and pick up your light wires there. Run separate wire from your brake controller back to your gooseneck plug for the electric brakes. I do the same, separate wire, if I want a hot 12v lead to the trailer. You'll pull less hair out of your head this way, and keep more green in your pocket over buying adapters. |
|
| |
|
| Well, what I did, and I know it's not technically "right" was to run a separate wire to the back of the trailer, and I have 2 round lights in the back that work like the semi taillights. When it's on the pickup, the inside lights are "dead", but they work on the semi. This is on a 40' that spends most of it's time on the semi anyway. |
|
| |
|
Brazilton KS | Same as Greywolf....changed the truck wiring to feed the trailer plug from the truck tail light circuit instead of the trailer circuit, then you have stop/turn. on our FLD it was a simple wire change in the cab. On a normal semi trailer it makes your turn signals light as brake lights also...which I consider to be an added benefit.
|
|
| |
|
| plowboy - 3/7/2010 13:17
Same as Greywolf....changed the truck wiring to feed the trailer plug from the truck tail light circuit instead of the trailer circuit, then you have stop/turn. on our FLD it was a simple wire change in the cab. On a normal semi trailer it makes your turn signals light as brake lights also...which I consider to be an added benefit.
Unless your current trailer turn signals are amber in color. |
|
| |
|
Chebanse, IL..... | Chris I had the same problem as you once, only I gave up. Our semi tractors (Peterbilts & FL) use the 11 o'clock & 1 o'clock for tail & clearance...they split the load so you don't necessarily lose everything if one fuse/circuit goes out. Then I bought a air-operated elec brake controller. I think it's a Kelsey-Hayes product. That may solve the brake problem...not sure. I think also that using the powered relay type mechanism as Boog etal show above is probably going to be the answer.....I guess. We use 7 pin on everything...semi type 7 pin, not RV 7 pin, trucks, pickups, little trailers, big trailers, wagons, etc. |
|
| |
|
Brazilton KS | That would be a problem I had not thought of.  We don't have any amber turn signals so I guess I had no reason to think of it.  |
|
| |
|
Aberdeen MS | Simple change out to all red. |
|
| |
|
| Greywolf - 3/7/2010 13:33
Simple change out to all red.
Unless you are running combination strobe / turn signals. |
|
| |
|
Aberdeen MS | Things do change when all the information is laid on the table. |
|
| |
How to? 7 pin semi tractor lights to gooseneck?
