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| We currently have a '89 Case IH 1896 with the 12 speed powershift. It is the "big tractor" on our produce operation. The hardest work it does is pulling a 9 shank chisel plow and it pulls a 3 pt planter that weighs about 3000 lbs. Overall it is a smooth running tractor with the 5.9 Cummins and usually lacks traction before power and it rides well and is laid out well. The problem is a 4 post rops and the electrical has been a pain. Between electrical issues and power shift problems I've sunk twice what I paid for the tractor into shop bills on something with 11k hrs.
Looking at cutting my losses but torn on whether to go a lil older but hopefully more reliable such as 986 or 1086 Internationals or maybe a Ford of similar size. Other option I'm torn between is going a little newer like 5xxx series or MX series.
Main considerations:
Want to upgrade to some sort of cab with air at least quiet enough to be able to hear phone ring/not need ear plugs
Has to be reliable because I'm sick of shop bills chasing electrical gremlins/failed pressure switches, clutches, etc. Power shifts are nice but not required for us.
Power to pull 9 shank chisel without working the snot out of it.
Would like to find low hrs enough that should get several years use before can expect a major repair (200 to 300 per year)
Trying to stay under $20k
Any recommendations from guys that have any of these models or have been in similar situation trying to balance reliability and comfort. Thanks |
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Stanford IL | For that price it’s gonna be hard but I’d try to get into a 7110 or 7120 |
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Stanford IL | For that price it’s gonna be hard but I’d try to get into a 7110 or 7120 |
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East of Broken Bow | If you can swing the $$$, I'd agree completely.
On our farm we have an 1896, might just be our least favorite tractor overall. For some jobs it shines, but it also has gremlins, the 3 point never worked all that well, and it is either 'tight' or 'loose', unlike the other tractors listed that you can set to be 'loose' when down, but 'tighten' when fully lifted so implements don't flop around when raised. Also, who ever came up with the top link on the 1896 should have their head examined. The Power Shift has been fairly reliable mechanically, but has had electrical gremlins and with only 12 total speeds it seems like the ideal gear to be in is in between 3rd power shift in one range, and 1st power shift in the next range up.
In addition, we have (between me and my brothers) a 986, 1066, 5130, 5088, and 7120.
The 986 is ranked higher in HP than the 1896, but the 1896 will pull about anything the 986 will due to better lugging power of the Cummins turbo engine, and it burns more fuel as well (probably due to the 986 not being turbocharged). Problem with the 986 is that it also had its share of problems. We got a last year one with the high pressure high flow hydraulics, and IH didn't have it quite figured out yet. 3 PT performance is above the 1896.
Cab is about equal for sound level, the heat is equal, the A/C is a little weaker. Cab is smaller and not as easy to get into or out of. Has a dry clutch compared to the 1896 wet clutch. The dual PTO sure beats reversing the shaft like on the 1896.
The 1066 is a better tractor with a worse cab. More power, near equal fuel efficiency (not as good on lighter loads, but will outwork the 1896 in about all respects. The 3 PT is far superior. In fact I like it better than on the 986 or 5088 because as they wear the linkages on the 986 and 5088 get a bit sloppy making it less precise. The 1066 lever works directly on the control valve, so control is much more precise when using something like a 3 PT blade. With the '10 you also move up to a CatIII. Hydraulics are not in the same class as the 1896, less pressure, less flow.
The 7120 is superior in every way. Better cab, better controls, full powershift, more power, better balance, more weight, and very nice 3 pt controls. It is electronic, and I have had to replace a sensor, but it was fairly cheap to fix. A little harder on fuel, but it is a whole different class of tractor, bigger frame and stouter all around. Probably out of your price range, but most tractor we have.
The 5130 is a little lighter than the 1896 and a little lower HP, but I think the 5140 would be about its equal. Still a little lighter overall, but a better tractor otherwise. The 3 speed power shift is upgraded to a 4 speed making shifts smoother, and the range shifting is synchronized so it doesn't grind like when shifting ranges like the 1896. The 3 pt is improved, as well. If you lack traction with the 1896, you will have the same problems with a 5140. Cab is equal to or better than the 1896, and has two entry doors. A little smaller physically, but more maneuverable. This would have the same 5.9 Cummins as your 1896.
Next would be the 5088, probably my recommendation considering your price range. You might have to shop around to find a good one $20K or less, but they are a far better tractor. Cat III 3 pt, 18 speed transmission that is a big upgrade when compared to the 66 or 86 series in that the forward gears are synchronized. Hydraulics are somewhat better than the 1896. Other pluses would be a wet clutch and dual PTO. Cab is about equal to the 86 series, still a little awkward to get in/out of, but at least it has the double doors of the 86 series. Heat and A/C are about like the 986, maybe slightly better A/C. We have 2 of them, and they have been extremely reliable for us. One has about 10,000 hours, it was gone through when we got it, not much done since. The other has about 8000 hours, we bought it with a hair over 2000, and have done almost nothing to it other than normal wear stuff like belts hoses and alternators. One word of advice I'll give for a new 5088 owner would be to change the fan bearing when you get it, and every 1000 hours after that. It has the reverse flow fan that has a short drive shaft with a carrier bearing to drive the fan instead of having it bolt to the front of the water pump like the 66/86 series. Change it every 1000 hours and it will never give a problem. Run it until it starts to growl and it can cause problems when it goes out. Overall reliability has been about on par with the 7120, but it isn't as nice to operate. |
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NE WI | At your max price you are just going to buy someone else’s problem that was a trade in.
Maybe a 9700, TW20, TW25, TW30, or TW35 with the older Q cab since it doesn’t have a digital dash like the newer series II with the square top Q cab. These have crash box with dual power. Easy to work on with basic electrical gauge dash.
All use the 401ci engine with some differences. They can cavitate the parent block so make sure coolant conditioner was maintained. PTO break band is a weak point. PTO live power splines at the flywheel are another weak point. Probably want one with spin out rim option for easier wheel spacing adjustment.
1086 with the backwards door isn’t easy to get in and out of. |
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SE Wisconsin | We have had a 1086 here all my life, its ok. They sure dont shift great, T/A is less then reliable, and slow hyd. Just my two cents but i would look for a john deere 4840, heavier built tractor with better trans and hyd. |
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| A while back I seen a 4230 with a creeper transmission that would have been perfect for you. Most likely long gone now. I would get something that you can get parts for. |
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| My unpopular opinion, I've never understood why people will spend a pile of money on a tractor and then dump it. You might as well just burn the money in the fire pit and keep the broke tractor, because you are now guaranteed to have lost the money you spent on the tractor.
You've got a bunch of of money in a tractor, you now need to use the heck out of that tractor to recover your spent money. If the problems aren't fixed, you need to learn to fix it yourself, or have a long talk with your dealer that's fixing it.
We now have 3 old Case tractors on this farm, a digital voltmeter and a wiring diagram are dirt cheap. |
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swohio | I have a 5288, 2 friends have 5088, been great tractors for all. |
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Ec Indiana | I’ve got a 5000 hr 1086 fwa I’d sell if you are interested. But it’s a 4 post. |
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| Thanks for all that info on the various models. Our 1896 did seem like an upgrade from the 1256 we were renting before and most of the time I don't even mind the 4 post rops but would like a cab for spraying with our airblast sprayer.
I'm guessing then performance wise a 1086 would be closer to the abilities of the 1896 then as opposed to the 986? I don't currently do a lot of pto work with it and the 3 pt work isn't real precise work either really.
As far as the 7120 it would be a huge upgrade but probably out of the budget unless I stumbled on a deal. So the 5240 would be a slightly improved version of the 1896 as far as tranny/electrical reliability? Loading tires would probably help decently I assume because mine aren't loaded.
Appreciate all the info on the 5088 because I actually hadn't sae them as an option. From the specs I saw if I'm remembering right would be decently larger than the 1896? But guess the plus would be it wouldn't be working very hard or need to be loaded down for traction. Were those transmissions pretty solid then since they weren't used very long (I assume the merger was the reason) or were they carried into other model lines? Are most parts still available because I know with the 1896 a lot of the electrical, power shift parts, and hydraulic stuff is starting to disappear? Are they a pain to work on/service? Hard to say since most of the pics show them all closed up with panels which also wondered if that made them prone to overheat?
Thanks again for all the info. Don't want to trade just for the sake of trading but the electrical/hydraulic mess on this thing just gets expensive quickly and hard to diagnose. |
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coast of Maine | Veggiefarmer,,I was in your shoes decades ago,you realize how much veg/fruit needs treatments,many are quite rough ,exposure is real,you may only treat once a week with air say with Lannate and you will build issues in your nervous system.get a cab that has charcoal filters available.Im not an IH guy but I am sure you can find even a JD 4240 with a cab close to the cost or even a tad smaller 2955 or such,it will turn a good sized air blast.Keep the old horse as like others say,,you know what you have,,,I will bet selling it now you will get a reaming.I have no idea what a 1896 is as none here but if the rubber is good,block and trans work. run it |
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| That's the concern partly on going too new is ending up with someone else's problem due to budget. Honestly the powershift doesn't get used a lot on our farm like the design was intended. By that I mean we don't spend much time on the road or doing things that require a lot of speed changes. I typically have a few gears that we do most things in so a basic gear or shuttle transmission isn't terrible in our case and possibly more reliable.
I have liked the thousand series Fords but have never driven one with the dual power. What's the "crash box" just the 8 speed? I have also never driven the TW series but they look like they would be pretty good tractors. Is the digital dash the biggest difference between series 1 and 2?
On the ones you listed how are the cabs? I don't need anything really nice but only cab tractor we used on our farm was a IH 1256 with the year round cab I think it was called with no insulation heat or air. Just would like something for when I spray but don't want to go deaf doing tillage work. Does the a/c work decent in them or can they be fixed reasonably? Are most parts still available for them or a lot of stuff getting harder to come by?
Thanks |
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| Yea a creeper would be nice for planting. Yea parts availability is important and why I'm not even really looking at options in the AGCO line even though some decent stuff out there I know a lot of their stuff is getting harder to find parts for as is the 1896. So far I've been able to get most things but the power shift parts and electrical stuff is getting harder to find and pricey. |
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| I don't totally disagree with your opinion which is why I'm on the fence to a point on whether to upgrade and if so whether to go more basic in search of reliability or upgrade at more cost for more convenience.
With what I paid for it compared to where prices are now I could recoup some of my repair costs to put towards another option. Other factors for trading I'm considering is going to a cab even a basic one for when I'm air blast spraying but unless it has functioning or repairable a/c would rather not have the cab. The power shift is nice to operate but has cost a pile on switches and labor hrs trying to figure out the absolute hack job the previous owner did to the harness that is got to be affecting the switches and sensors. It works good now but a shop bill every other year for the tranny is getting old. Love the 5.9 Cummins and it runs well but at 11k hrs not sure how long before it's going to need costly work. So far it's just starting to develop a few leaks. Hydraulics are also starting to concern with intermittant pump noise though operation seems fine. So it's basically just a lot of potential expenses that I'm debating whether to see how long it will last or walk away before I'm in it for as much as a newer lower houred option.
That being said it runs well and does what we need it to when it's working and is sized well for our tillage equipment and I have mid sized tractors for the smaller equipment. |
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| I haven't really looked into the 5088 before because it seems decently bigger than my 1896 which if I had loaded tires would be plenty for most of what I currently do but if footprint wasn't much bigger the extra size might not matter a lot. What info do you have on the 5088 from your experience? How hard are they to service or repair? Most pics have them all closed up under pamels. Are they awkward to operate as far as location of controls? Parts available? |
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| Thanks for the advice regarding the spraying and the charcoal filter. Do you know if those are available for older cabs or bout how far back age wise. That may be an option as well if I can find something big enough just for a spray tractor to keep the 1896 for tillage/planting since it's working OK currently and motor is solid and rubber is good. Our airblast is probably 75 to 100 gallons I'm guessing as it's old and fiberglass. Don't even know what make or model. What kind of hp range do you need for most airblast sprayers? I don't feel like it takes much to run it.
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| I would vote for 5088 as well. Have one currently and grew up on a 1086. If you get a 5088 make sure it has a circuit breaker update. |
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| What are your thoughts on the 88 as far as how difficult are they to service/repair? Is there much of an issue getting parts for them? Do they seem like much of an upgrade from the 86 for the price difference? |
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Winkler, Manitoba Canada | Veggiefarmer09 - 11/30/2024 14:57
Thanks for the advice regarding the spraying and the charcoal filter. Do you know if those are available for older cabs or bout how far back age wise.
One supplier of charcoal filters. I think Dutch has most tractors/sprayers covered if you look down the list. https://dutchopeners.com/cab-filters/
Edited by WTW 11/30/2024 18:10
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Winkler, Manitoba Canada | Veggiefarmer09 - 11/30/2024 14:44
I haven't really looked into the 5088 before because it seems decently bigger than my 1896 which if I had loaded tires would be plenty for most of what I currently do but if footprint wasn't much bigger the extra size might not matter a lot. What info do you have on the 5088 from your experience? How hard are they to service or repair? Most pics have them all closed up under pamels. Are they awkward to operate as far as location of controls? Parts available?
I think a midrange tractor would suit you better than a large frame like a 5088. Would be a lot of tractors I would look at before considering a 5088. A lower hour 1896 or 2096 would be a lot more attractive to me. Perhaps a 2090 Case would be more to your liking as it eliminates the electric shift stuff. Trying to stay under $20K and get a reliable tractor will not be easy.
Edited by WTW 11/30/2024 18:16
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| Thank you for the link. |
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| Is the 2090 basically just the predecessor to the 1896 with Case motor and the same power shift trans just with mechanical linkage to the solenoid valves? |
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Winkler, Manitoba Canada | Veggiefarmer09 - 11/30/2024 18:48
Is the 2090 basically just the predecessor to the 1896 with Case motor and the same power shift trans just with mechanical linkage to the solenoid valves?
Yes, very similar tractor. |
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| They pretty reliable comparatively? How were the cabs on those compared to IH? My 1896 is just the open 4 post rops |
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SENE | A 2094 was actually the predecessor to a 1896. Only reason I know is my 2094 has 1896 parts in the powershift now. And a 2090 and 2094 are very similar mechanically except as wtw said a 2090 have a mechanical powershift. I'm partial to case for what it's worth. Finding a good mechanic to fix case tractors and know what they are doing is getting harder all the time! Cabs on a 90 and 94 series case are not even in the same category as a 86 series in my opinion. A lot more room and better ac.
Edited by pigshephard 11/30/2024 21:05
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Winkler, Manitoba Canada | Forgot the 94 series between the 90 and 96. Yes getting harder to find both knowledge and parts to fix older tractors. |
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| Thanks for the clarification |
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East of Broken Bow | Veggiefarmer09 - 11/30/2024 15:03
Thanks for all that info on the various models. Our 1896 did seem like an upgrade from the 1256 we were renting before and most of the time I don't even mind the 4 post rops but would like a cab for spraying with our airblast sprayer.
I'm guessing then performance wise a 1086 would be closer to the abilities of the 1896 then as opposed to the 986? I don't currently do a lot of pto work with it and the 3 pt work isn't real precise work either really.
THE 1086 WOULD BE A STEP UP FROM THE 1896. OUR 1896 WAS RATED RIGHT AROUND 100 HP, A 1066 WILL BE 130+. YOU WILL ALSO BE GAINING A CAT III 3 POINT HITCH 986 WOULD BE MUCH CLOSER IN SIZE, I THINK A HAIR MORE RATED HP, BUT WITH THE BETTER LUGGING OF THE ABILITY OF THE CUMMINS ENGINE, THE SEAT OF THE PANTS IMPRESSION IS THAT THEY ARE ABOUT EQUALLY MATCHED. SHIFING ISN'T ANY BETTER THAN THE 1896 FOR 80% OF THE JOBS, WORSE FOR ANOTHER 15% AND BETTER FOR MAYBE 5%. DITTO THE 1086/1066
As far as the 7120 it would be a huge upgrade but probably out of the budget unless I stumbled on a deal. So the 5240 would be a slightly improved version of the 1896 as far as tranny/electrical reliability? Loading tires would probably help decently I assume because mine aren't loaded.
THAT WOULD BE A GOOD WAY OF SAYING IT. THE 5240 WOLUD BE ABOUT THE SAME HP AS THE 1896, A 5250 WOULD BE A BIT MORE HP. THE PHYSICAL SIZE OF THE TRACTOR IS SLIGHTLY SMALLER, A LITTLE LIGHTER, AND SLIGHTLY SHORTER WHEELBASE. THIS MAKES IT MORE MANEUVERABLE BUT ALSO A LITTLE BIT LESS STABLE FEELING WITH LARGE LOADS. KEEP IN MIND WE HAVE LOTS OF ROLLING GROUND HERE, AND DO HAY ON FAIRLY SEEP GROUND IN PLACES. IF YOU ARE ON THE LEVEL AND WEIGHT IT DOWN TO EQUAL THE 1896 YOU WILL PROBABLY NEVER NOTICE THIS. IM PRETTY SURE THE 5140/5240 WOULD BE CONSIDERED AN 'IMPROVED' 1896. SHIFTING IS MUCH SMOOTHER, AND IT HAS POWER SHUTTLE WHERE YOU CAN GO FROM FORWARD TO REVERSE WITHOUT CLUTCHING. I'M PRETTY SURE THEY WERE DESIGNED WITH LOADER WORK IN MIND. THOSE FIRST GENERATION MAXXUM TRACTORS WERE SOME OF THE MOST RELIABLE OUT THERE FOR THEIR SIZE AND HP. VERY, VERY FEW PROBLEMS IN OVER 10K HOURS.
Appreciate all the info on the 5088 because I actually hadn't sae them as an option. From the specs I saw if I'm remembering right would be decently larger than the 1896? But guess the plus would be it wouldn't be working very hard or need to be loaded down for traction. Were those transmissions pretty solid then since they weren't used very long (I assume the merger was the reason) or were they carried into other model lines?
MOST OF THE TRANSMISSION PARTS AS FAR AS GEARS, BEARINGS, AND SHAFTS WERE CARRIED OVER INTO THE EARLY MAGNUM SERIES. THE 5088 WOULD HAVE AN AVANTAGE OVER A 1086 IN TERMS OF MORE GEARS, A TRUE POWER SHIFT INSTEAD OF A T/A, SYNCHRONIZED GEARS, A WET CLUTCH, BETTER HYDRAULICS (THE OLDER 86 SERIES HAD LESS FLOW PRESSURE, THE LATER ONES UPGRADED THE FLOW AND PSI, BUT WEREN'T PERFECTED YET AND HAD SOME ISSUES - MAINLY THINGS LIKE CRACKING LINES DUE TO THE HIGHER PRESSURE WHICH WOULD CAUSE LEAKS UNDER THE CAB . TRIPLE R TRACTORS CAN GET PRETTY MUCH ANY REPLACEMENT PART FOR A 5088 YOU WOULD EVER NEED, BARRING SOMETHING EXTREME LIKE CRACKING A TRANNY HOUSING OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT.
Are most parts still available because I know with the 1896 a lot of the electrical, power shift parts, and hydraulic stuff is starting to disappear? Are they a pain to work on/service?
PARTS AVAILABILITY HAS BEEN NO PROBLEM FOR ME FOR THE FEW PARTS I HAVE EVER NEEDED. ENGINE IS IH 400 SERIES, TRANSMISSION SHARES MOST WEAR PARTS WITH EARLY MAGNUMS, REAR END AND HYDRAULICS ARE ALL BUT IDENTICAL. I KNOW LOOKING AT THEM SERVICE ACCESS SEEMS LIKE IT WOULD BE TIGHT, BUT FOR MOST THINGS IT ISN'T BAD AT ALL. THE SIDE DOORS COME OFF IN LIKE 10 SECONDS EACH OPENING UP THE ACCESS TO THE SIDES ABOUT LIKE WHAT A 1086 WOULD HAVE. I'M NOT JUST TALKING ABOUT OPENING THE DOOR, BUT POPPING IT OFF COMPLETELY. OTHER THINGS LIKE CHANGING OIL AND FILTERS IS NO WORSE THAN A 1086, EITHER. THE ONE AND ONLY HARDER THING TO ACCESS WOULD BE THE RADIATOR TO BLOW OUT THE DUST, THAT TAKES MAYBE 15 MINUTES OF TIME TO GET THE FRONT GRILLE OFF TO GET TO THE RADIATOR INSTEAD OF 30 SECONDS LIKE THE 1086.
Hard to say since most of the pics show them all closed up with panels which also wondered if that made them prone to overheat?
I HAVE RUN MY 5088 AT FULL THROTTLE, FULL LOAD WHEN IT WAS WELL OVER 100 DEGREES OUT, AND IT MAYBE RAN A NEEDLE WIDTH WARMER THAN ANY OTHER TIME. UNLESS YOUR RADIATOR IS PLUGGED IT WILL NOT HEAT UNLESS THE FUEL IS TURNED UP AND YOU ARE WORKING THE SNOT OUT OF IT. I ACTUALLY LIKE IT FOR HAY AND SILAGE BECAUSE WHEN YOU OPEN UP A FIELD LEAVES AND STUFF DO NOT PLUG THE GRILLE. AIR COMES IN THE TOP (WHERE YOU CAN SEE IF ANYTHING IS COVERING IT FROM THE SEAT) AND BLOWS OUT THE FRONT. I THINK IT STAYS JUST AS CLEAN AS THE RADIATOR IN THE 986 OR 1066, EVEN THOUGH AT FIRST YOU WOULDN'T THINK IT WOULD.
Thanks again for all the info. Don't want to trade just for the sake of trading but the electrical/hydraulic mess on this thing just gets expensive quickly and hard to diagnose.
I AGREE. WE HAVE REPLACED THE LITTLE SHIFTER RELAY BOARD IN THE RH CONSOLE UNDER THE THROTTLE/GEARSHIFT 3-4 TIMES NOW, PLUS HAD SOME WIRING UNDER THE CAB TO THE SHIFT SOLENOIDS GO BAD (WHICH TOOK QUITE A BIT OF DIAGNOSIS TO FIGURE OUT AND A PARTIAL NEW HARNESS TO FIX). ADD TO THAT THE 'SURGE' YOU GET EVERY TIME YOU DEPRESS THE CLUTCH, AND I'D MUCH RATHER DRIVE THE 5088. WE'VE ALSO POPPED THE MAIN HYDRAULIC PRESSURE HOSE UNDER THE CAB I THINK 3 TIMES (REAL FUN TO REPLACE, WE WOUND UP CUTTING A HOLE IN THE FLOOR OF THE CAB LAST TIME JUST SO IF/WHEN IT HAPPENS AGAIN WE CAN GET TO THE FITTINGS WITH A WRENCH) AND EVEN BROKE OFF THE ODD LITTLE EYEBOLTS IN THE HYDRAULIC LINKAGE AT THE SPOOL VALVE.
OH, AND THE 5088 AND 7120 CAN CHANGE HYD FLOW FROM THE CAB INSTEAD OF REACHING AROUND THE CAB STEPS WHICH IS NICE, TOO. OURS HASN'T HAD MUCH FOR BIG PROBLEMS, BUT HAS HAD A LOT OF LITTLE ONES. BIGGEST WAS THE TORQUE PLATE GOING BAD WHICH WASN'T A CHEAP FIX.
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East of Broken Bow | Another thought on service: It uses the same filters as the 86 series as far as fuel, oil and hydraulic filters. It has an additional spin on hydraulic filter that is the same as the spin on one on the very latest models of the 86 series. Parts have been easy to get, and they have more aftermarket support than you'd expect for only being made a few years, but that might be because a lot of parts interchange with other models.
In my opinion, they are an upgrade from the 86 series:
The T/A has been replaced with a true 2 speed powershift, MUCH more reliable.
Dry clutch replaced with a wet clutch.
Better hydraulics.
Better transmission overall - 18 forward speeds instead of 16 but the big improvement is that all forward gears are synchronized, and they shift very well on the go, both between gears as well as between ranges.
Instead of a complex MCV valve that controls oil flow between the T/A, steering, brakes and lube, the 5088 has a separate tranny lube pump so if a line or seal blows in the shift mechanism, brakes or steering it will not starve the tranny bearings for oil.
Planetary final drive instead of pinion and bull gear.
Those are the main things I can think of off the top of my head. |
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East of Broken Bow | Veggiefarmer09 - 11/30/2024 15:44
I haven't really looked into the 5088 before because it seems decently bigger than my 1896 which if I had loaded tires would be plenty for most of what I currently do but if footprint wasn't much bigger the extra size might not matter a lot. What info do you have on the 5088 from your experience? How hard are they to service or repair? Most pics have them all closed up under pamels. Are they awkward to operate as far as location of controls? Parts available?
Our 1896 is 2WD with 10-16 front tires and 18.4-38 rears. My 5088 has 11-16 fronts and 18.4-38 rears. Overall, the 5088 has a slightly bigger wheelbase but the front wheels turn to a sharper angle, so the 5088 will turn around into the next track just as easy as the 1896, maybe easier (both are 2WD). I have some furrow irrigated crops, and can turn the 5088 around and hit the proper row without backing up, just turning short and hitting the brake with a 3 PT mounted 4 row 36" spaced ridger. I may have to shift down at the end, but I don't have to back up. Controls are about equal as far as convenience as the 1896. In fact, most of the controls are pretty much in the same place except that the throttle is next to the steering wheel and the gearshift levers are lower down. Hydraulic and 3 PT controls are in similar locations. The biggest thing I notice with the 5088 over the 1896 would be while the 5088 isn't that much 'bigger' it has a lot more 'iron' in it. When doing things like pulling a gravity wagon, the 5088 handles my big one just fine, but in hills it seems like all the 1896 wants as far as the wagon wanting to push the tractor around. If you unhook the wagon from the 5088 and put it on the 1896 you will be all but skidding at the auger the first couple times you drive to it because it has notably less weight to it. Overall maneuverability is pretty close between them, though. I would say they are like comparing a normally set up half ton pickup to a big block 3/4 ton. It is about the same size, and maneuvers around pretty close to the same, but everything about it has a heavier 'feel' to it. Keep in mind you are going from about 100 HP in the 1896 to about 135 or more in the 5088. More power, more weight, more 'heavy duty' feel, but on the other hand not really more clumsy to drive as much as just 'different'. Another thing to keep in mind the 5088 will handle any job the 1896 can do with ease, but the 1896 will not at all be able to do the work of a 5088. |
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| That explanation has clarified a lot on those models. I would think 5140/5240 would handle about the same as long as I could get enough traction with loaded tires. May need front weight to balance the transplanter that's about 3000 lbs. We are pretty flat and don't tow real heavy loads.
A lot of good info on the 5088. That makes sense with that design why they would stay cool. Good to know there aren't part availability issues.
Yea so far the 1896 has been mostly shift clutch solenoids, pressure switches. This year though ended up both clutch pedal switches, that circuit board, and the range selector switch ($1300 and getting real hard to find). Then lots of time tracing boogered up wiring trying to figure out what parts were wrong because things weren't metering out or checking out the way they were expected to. Biggest thing at this point is just back half of injector pump leaking and intermittent noise from the hydraulic pump.
Thanks again
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| Those sound like a pretty decent set of upgraded features regarding the design. That and it definitely helps having overlapping parts and filters etc |
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| Oh ok so that's good to know so probably handle my 9 shank chisel with less effort and without the occasional spinning even without loading tires. Guess an advantage there too would be if I ever wanted to increase size of tillage equipment tractor power wouldn't be an issue. As long as footprint not much bigger I wouldn't have to change block sizes, plant bed spacing, barn space etc. Thanks |
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East of Broken Bow | The tractor is physically bigger, but the front axle it tucked back a little and the front wheels steer to a sharper angle making it turn as short as our 1896. It may take a little more space due to the nose sticking out past the front axle, although in my situation (36" rows) anything the nose will hit, the front tire (2WD) will usually hit, too. Narrow rows may be different. |
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Looking for upgrade options for Case IH 1896
