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 Ideas for a Morton barn sliding door center (floor) latchJump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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BBfarms |
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| Barn has (2) sliding doors (20 & 21' wide) The set of doors facing south gets used allot, that is my main entrance (end doors). On that end, I have a concrete floor / 1' wide "dirt" area and a concrete apron on the outside. That "T" latch has never been an issue. The other door set faces east get used seldom and has gravel floor / apron on either side of the doors. I can't seem to work out a way for that floor "T" to stay in place in winters, always heaves and pushes the doors up and binds in the track. What are my options for a floor latch system? That ground seems to heave allot, even with no latch it will still bind the doors if I am not careful. the pic below is the south facing door, the east facing door is facing the smaller barn Thinking about digging way down and filling a 1' wide area with concrete possibly 3-4' deep with something to attach the doors to like a pipe in the ground that I can slide another pipe into that is attached to the doors ?? Ideas?? Pic's ???? I should also note that anything that enters that door needs to be driven in at an angle since there is another barn just east of that one so I don't want anything that could cut a tire. Edited by BBfarms 7/1/2021 19:57 (FBTB8232 (full).JPG) Attachments ----------------  FBTB8232 (full).JPG (143KB - 151 downloads) | |||
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| frank l |
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| tedbear |
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| I'm in somewhat the same situation. I have a Morton shop/shed. The main door on the shop end is a 30' overhead door which is fine. The door on the shed end (cold storage) consists of a pair of sliders that Morton installed with the building. That end consists of a pair of 18' sliders that slide in from each side. Currently it still has three posts with guides in the ground with no concrete anywhere. This is how Morton handled that door. The guides get pushed out of alignment and can be hard on tires. By having three, it is difficult to straddle them with combine duals etc. Upgrading that end to an overhead door would be very expensive. Beside the cost of the door and installation, that end of the shed would need to be beefed up considerably to handle an overhead door. If I can get some help, I plan to follow what my neighbor has on his shed with sliders. He has two 18' sliders also. As shown on the attached pictures, he dug out a large hole for concrete and rebar. The hole was the width of the door (36') x 4-5' width x 4-5' depth. This took a lot of concrete but he didn't want it to move. As shown on the pictures a piece of angle iron was used to make lip for the door. He used a single removable guide for the center. If he is moving equipment in/out that straddles the center, he just leaves the center guide in place. If the equipment might run over or have a clearance issue with the center guide he can remove it. This means that for the majority of the time he doesn't need to remove the guide but can if necessary. It is likely that such a large cavity is not necessary. A smaller cavity with some holes dug down deeper below the frost line would likely be acceptable. I just don't have the experience to know how large a cavity is necessary. I certainly want to do it right the first time. Having the slab move would mess up the whole plan. One would need to be careful when removing something like a field cultivator that might catch the angle iron as the wheels drop over the lip. I have an older shed where my Dad had used an angle iron for a lip but it got caught and pulled out of shape. I now have an overhead door there and removed the distorted angle iron but it is not pretty. Edited by tedbear 7/2/2021 06:52 (DarylDoor1. (full).JPG) (DarylDoor2 (full).JPG) (DarylDoor3JPG (full).JPG) Attachments ---------------- DarylDoor1. (full).JPG (151KB - 77 downloads) DarylDoor2 (full).JPG (140KB - 85 downloads) DarylDoor3JPG (full).JPG (137KB - 76 downloads) | |||
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| 4WD |
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I just install this Cannonball unit, for 2 smaller door (8 foot wide, 11 feet tall) in the center of doors, with a concrete hole that is 42" deep. (below frost) Edited by 4WD 7/2/2021 07:55 (door guide_shows adjustablitiy (full).jpg) (Cannonball center door guide (full).png) Attachments ---------------- door guide_shows adjustablitiy (full).jpg (42KB - 84 downloads) Cannonball center door guide (full).png (15KB - 138 downloads) | |||
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| Ken in MN |
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| This is what my Dad did for our Morton doors years ago. Pipes mounted on bottom of each door with a pipe that slides through to lock both doors together when closed. Works great. (6E51D897-AC3F-463D-A474-968B1AC3678E (full).jpeg) (10FBF91B-A184-4261-8318-0CC2B85DF5EB (full).jpeg) Attachments ---------------- 6E51D897-AC3F-463D-A474-968B1AC3678E (full).jpeg (116KB - 86 downloads) 10FBF91B-A184-4261-8318-0CC2B85DF5EB (full).jpeg (125KB - 68 downloads) | |||
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| scott312 |
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| scott312 |
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| This is how I like to do them, you don't even notice running it over. If the cement heaved much more than an inch it'd be a problem though (KIMG1223 (full).JPG) (KIMG1224 (full).JPG) Attachments ---------------- KIMG1223 (full).JPG (106KB - 90 downloads) KIMG1224 (full).JPG (98KB - 104 downloads) | |||
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| MN Dean |
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| Here is what I did . 4 large post holes 4' deep. (door stop (1) (full).jpg) (door stop (2) (full).jpg) Attachments ---------------- door stop (1) (full).jpg (165KB - 85 downloads) door stop (2) (full).jpg (198KB - 66 downloads) | |||
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| DiamondDoors |
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