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Keymar, Maryland | I don't know a whole lot about the firing systems on these, but my Grandads tractor isn't getting spark. I put a new solenoid and cool on it. The coil has power to it and to the distributor cap. The cap and rotor button look fine, but I can not get a spark out of the fairly good looking plugs....I'm lost on what to try next... |
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| New points and condenser always come before a new coil. Adjust the point gap to whatever Ford specs are with rubbing block on top of the cam lobe. You say model 4000....is it a 4 cylinder or 3 cylinder engine?? There are two model 4000 Ford farm tractors. |
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Keymar, Maryland | It's a 4 cylinder. And like I said, I don't know much about how the points and all that work. Still learning. Any help is appreciated |
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just a tish NE of central ND | Point problems is probably what you have. They are very simple. They are just a on-off switch for electricity flow. Get a point file or an abrasive and file the contact points. Remove corrosion and burn spots . On high cam on the distributer cam there should be a gap, in the points of probably .023" gap. or so. (I'm just guessing at the gap size though)On low cam, they need to have a positive contact.
You may need new points if the old ones are in burned up condition.
Edited to fix the point gap error to realistic measurements....
Edited by School Of Hard Knock 12/27/2014 19:19
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E.Central MN | On the Ford 4000 we used to own, if it sat outside it seemed to burn the points out once in a while. New set of points and condenser and it would start fine again. Dealer parked it outside on his lot and called one day that he had a customer coming from 3 hours away to look at it and it wouldn't start, did we sell him a lemon? Told him about the points and it was fixed by the time the guy got there and they made a deal. Would have kept ours but hated that SelectoSpeed. |
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NW Central Ohio | ...Remember, those points have current through them constantly when you have the ignition on. So if you have a habit of leaving the key on at times...you'll burn the points. To see if they're working, you leave the key on, and see if there is spark when you push them open with a screwdriver. JUST MAKE SURE YOU ARE USING AN INSULATED SCREWDRIVER!!! or you might not like it! If you have no spark...get a new set of points and condenser. Also, pour a little lacquer thinner in the distributor cap...let it soak for a minute, and then dump it out. Look for cracks that don't dry immediately, that will tell you if there is a distributor cap problem. Good luck!!! |
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| Has it been wet out. My tractor had sat out in some moist conditions. An the distrbutor was wet inside. Got a hair dryer an blew some warm air in in there. Started right off after that. Not saying thats whats wrong with your but worht a try. |
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Mount Vernon, WA | I suspect you mean .023", rather than .0023". |
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Washington, Kansas & Lincoln, Nebraska |
to each his own, I guess! But I've got three of those prior 4000 SOS tractors, plus a 5000 and a 6000. Wouldn't want any other transmission in any of 'em! |
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Washington, Kansas & Lincoln, Nebraska | Actually . . . I think the proper gap is .025 |
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southern MN | I've had more than one new condenser that didnt work. Don't assume a new one is working.
There are some tiny insulation pads on the bolt through the side of the distributor where the wire passes through to the points. Common for those pads to shift and ground out the bolt to the distributor body.
A Ford uses that little springy clip on top of the distributor shaft to keep the rotor on tight. Folks not familiar with Ford take the rotor off and don't realize they even lost that tiny clip. Won't work without it.
Some of the deals you could run into.
Paul |
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just a tish NE of central ND | Bern - 12/27/2014 09:56
I suspect you mean .023", rather than .0023".
LOL! Right! My typo, |
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Ford 4000 gas won't fire
