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eight![]() |
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South Texas | I'm going to use electric fence to build a heifer pen in a heavy deer area. Heifers are already pets and have been on electric fences all their lives. The fence will be permanent. Planing on using t-posts for line posts. I usually use the snap on insulators, but have problems with deer some times. Wondering if there is anything stronger? How about these? Pin locks http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/zarebareg%3B-black-pin-lock-w... Screw on? http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/zarebareg%3B-yellow-screw-on-... | ||
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Ben![]() |
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North Mo. | If you are making a PERMANENT fence why in the good name use a GROUND ROD FOR A POST.? Ben | ||
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hedgewood1![]() |
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central kansas | I used black insulators on wood posts. After about 3 or 4 yrs , they seemed to break down . Iguess it was from UV rays . Look for something better if it is perm . | ||
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Douglas![]() |
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Central North Carolina | Those tractor supply pin lock don't cost much, and you get what you pay for. | ||
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Douglas![]() |
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Central North Carolina | http://www.gallagherusa.com/electric-fencing/permanent.component.as... I like these for tpost | ||
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forageone97![]() |
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S.E. LA. | Mr eight Ben is correct why would want to build in TROUBLE, snap-on insulators, run from terrible to good, cost is the factor. Best fence would be built with 7/8" or 1 " Fiberglass post, drilled every 2". You attach the wire with a cotter key type connector no shorts ever and you can rest at night not having to worry if the deer shorted the fence out. We can shock the deer when they walk up and encounter the fence, but if they dive thru they will not be shocked, like a bird landing on the hi line. Good luck and good grazing. | ||
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fowllife![]() |
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NC Ohio | I used some of the screw on ones for a temp fence in the winter parter last year, most of them didn't make it through the winter. IMO they are junk. I used some of the pin lock's that snap over the t post to keep the cows out of the pond at a different fam & I liked them much better. I don't know if I would use them for a permanent fence though. | ||
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Jim![]() |
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Driftless SW Wisconsin | I've had very good luck with these insulators on steel Tee posts in black for a permanent fence. Pin lock is better than non since you can take a tight wire in and out. They seem to be UV resistant and flexible even after a few years in the sun. Make sure you use smooth, not barb, wire for the hot wire. I assume you are building a high tensile fence. I am building one now with 6 wires, 2nd and 4th from the ground will be energized. As much as I like my Gallagher fence chargers, I had an absolute disaster with Gallagher insulators. Evidently their supplier forgot the UV resistant ingredient. Have had to replace a hundred or so of their Gallagher standoffs found dangling from a loose wire. Get denials from the company. Local supplier will no lonnger sell them so I guess I am not the only one who ran into this problem. I like the ceramic insulators on the ends. Only had one ever had a problem as discussed in the charger thread below. In a heavy deer area I would not energize the top hi tensile wire. Spread the posts a bit to maybe 15 ft with a wood post every 4th or 5th post. Good luck. Jim Edited by Jim 8/8/2013 15:25 | ||
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feelnrite![]() |
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northwest tennessee | I have had a ceramic crack on the corners too and that is why I stopped using them. I use a yellow one now that is real hard and plastic but made for high tensile fence. I cant remember the brand name though. I have never had a problem with them. | ||
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Jim![]() |
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Driftless SW Wisconsin | I would be interested in brand of those. I have had trouble with standard black plastic end insulators so I went to the ceramic. Only one cracked so far but if there is something better I'd sure like to use it. Building more fence over the next couple weeks around the new shed. Jim | ||
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Texas Papaw![]() |
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Central Texas | +1 on the fiberglass post. Also use high tensile wire. Doubt the deer will ever break it. If anything is damaged it will most likely be the fg post but fence will pop right back up. Edited by Texas Papaw 8/8/2013 16:37 | ||
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feelnrite![]() |
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northwest tennessee | <p>I will see if I have some in the package. I am bad about opening and dumping in a container so I can get to them fast. The coop here is where I buy them though. I will tell you another thing I have had trouble with. The strainers that have the spring loaded flapper that automatically pops in place and holds the tension. In about 3 years the metal in the flapper just falls apart like wood and there is nothing there. I am buying the older style that have the peice of wire you have to move by hand.</p> Edited by feelnrite 8/8/2013 18:31 | ||
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IL cow man![]() |
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Buffalo IL | IT is completely stupid to use a steel post of any sort to build an electric fence!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! | ||
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mo1566![]() |
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North central Missouri | Built fence around some ponds and along lane to house. Don't know how long they will last as have only been up a year. These were cheaper than tposts and no insulators to buy. (IMG_20130808_193336.jpg) (IMG_20130808_193350.jpg) (IMG_20130808_193359.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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feelnrite![]() |
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northwest tennessee | Are they plastic? Will they go in a post driver? | ||
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68milkman![]() |
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Monett Missouri | I like pasture pro posts. fiberglass would work if you like the price better. deer and t posts are a poor combination. | ||
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Ben![]() |
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North Mo. | yes and yes think power flex sell them at least that is were I bought a pallet from. Have not used them yet look on stockman grass farmer magazine they are advertised on there. Ben | ||
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mo1566![]() |
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North central Missouri | Yes they are plastic and yes they willing in a post driver. A hand driver that is, we tried pushing in with skidsteer but had several issues. | ||
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forageone97![]() |
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S.E. LA. | Those plastic t-post look good, but stringing all that wire in the holes looks like a headache, If you have trouble driving with loader try making a steel sleeve to fit over them with solid top and they wont be able to twist or buck going in we do that with fiberglass on some jobs if the soil is right. If you have problem with pin lock insulators in Gallagher off set brackets us porcelain do-nut instead of plastic, the porcelain bullnose end insulator is hard to beat if it is installed right, check manual to see correct way to install. Good luck and good grazing. | ||
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Ben![]() |
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North Mo. | best way to fasten the wire is use the long cotter keys. Id hate to string a mile of wire thru each post. Ben | ||
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landman![]() |
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mo 1566 how much trouble to run the wires through before are after driving post, timeless sent me a sample just like that just looks like a lot of hassle to try and string the wire through the post | |||
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landman![]() |
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Good point Ben i have a lot of t post electric fence and deer and wild hogs i use the ones that wrap around the back side of post i think i get them from valley vet supply, i only use these on fences were the barb wire has been removed and we replace with electric, taking most of the t post out on a new fence i would not even think of t post just use the fiberglass or similar put a small wood line post every so often with screw on insulator | |||
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mo1566![]() |
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North central Missouri | Pulling the wire was no problem at all that said longest run is maybe 1/4 mile but I liked the idea of no insulators to break. | ||
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eight![]() |
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South Texas | This will be my first try with high tensile. I've been using double wire slick in higher pressure areas, regular 14 ga galv in normal areas. Expect the high tensile to be much like the double slick, but cheaper and have to crimp it. I like those fiberglass posts, will have to see if I can find them local, or where do y'all buy them online? Pretty sure the plastic posts would have no chance of driving into most of my ground Y'all must have some crazy cows. Here 50' spacing is considered close, and usually just 1 wire. My standard non-electric cross fence is 4 wire 4 prong gaucho on 18' space. Electric is single wire on 65' space or double on 50' space if I'm concerned with keeping the little calves on the right side of the fence. Edited by eight 8/8/2013 23:10 | ||
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Aaron K![]() |
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Stratton, Ontario, Canada | I use t-posts with these insulators in very wet places or in near-solid rock. Lots of deer pressure, no issues. http://www.kencove.com/fence/T+Post+Insulators_detail_ITDB.... | ||
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Gary Lyon![]() |
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![]() Southeast Wyoming | IL cow man - 8/8/2013 17:57 IT is completely stupid to use a steel post of any sort to build an electric fence!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The difference is that some of you guys are fencing "garden" plots in regard to size and the moisture in the ground. Steel is all that will penetrate the ground in some livestock country. Also, in dry country, running a "ground" wire above or below the hot wire helps livestock "understand" what it is all about.. Steel helps with lightnig issues also. I've said it before, just because YOU don't understand something does not mean that it is stupid, but stupid may be involved. lol | ||
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bake321![]() |
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Allen County, Kentucky | Here on "Rocky Ridge Lane" we would be out of luck without steel t-posts. They were also the only way to go when I lived in Arizona. | ||
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Texas Papaw![]() |
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Central Texas | Kencove is where I get most of my e-fence supplies. They have quality products at reasonable prices and good people to work with. Have found most TSC stuff is low quality crap made to sell for a cheap price. Here's a link to Kencove http://www.kencove.com/fence/Fiberglass_products.php Highly recommend the Suncoat fg rods over the bare uncoated. You will get a handful of tiny fg splinters handling the uncoated. Not a pleasant experience. Just another 2 cents worth. | ||
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Ben![]() |
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North Mo. | Uh know guys in the west Utah Colorado Wy. and others they will all say the same thing about steel and electric fence. Friend of mine has moose or elk problem uses electric with post that give, steel would be a mess those critters run into and over that fence. Also I understand the need to run a ground wire, still no real reason to run steel post. I would give you the lightning thing maybe. Not real garden here 300 head normally under fence all electric. Ben | ||
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Ben![]() |
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North Mo. | Ok what is DOUBLE STICK WIRE? 50 ft. is about our max due to hills and low spots. These plastic T post I'd think would drive, they use them in the Ozarks mostly rocks there. Fire would do them in so if in fire country guess they would be out. Ben | ||
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eight![]() |
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South Texas | Slick. Like barb wire, but no barbs. | ||
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landman![]() |
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eight you can call southwest livestock supply in SA they are up on the north side on hwy 281 i get a lot of my stuff from them or Kencove either will ship UPS. depending how many post you need they will ship or you can go get um. also if you want a good charger google Taylor fence company in Mississippi if think, they used to make fence chargers for twin mountain fence company out of San Angelo, they have a good charger for the price and do the repair work on them also | |||
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feelnrite![]() |
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northwest tennessee | The only problem I see would be when you had to make a splice in the wire. | ||
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forageone97![]() |
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S.E. LA. | This post has sure generated some interesting thoughts, just goes to prove there is more than one way to skin a cat !!! There are situations in each region that cause the same fence to be built differently, ask around your location get different thoughts and build what fits you best. Good luck and good grazing. | ||
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Douglas![]() |
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Central North Carolina | Have a trick to get t-posts cheap. Ever time I ride by TSC I check their lot out front with t-post. When I see a couple bent one laying to the side I stop and buy 5. Then I talk the loader into giving me the bent ones. Easy to straighten. I use them as tomato stakes, and all kind of way. They last forever. | ||
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Douglas![]() |
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Central North Carolina | feelnrite - 8/8/2013 16:05 I have had a ceramic crack on the corners too and that is why I stopped using them. I use a yellow one now that is real hard and plastic but made for high tensile fence. I cant remember the brand name though. I have never had a problem with them. same here. | ||
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