Dallas Center IA 515-720-2463 | There was some questions about my 15 row 16" soybean planter over at Crop Talk. I will answer them here on Machinery Talk.
First the planter started out as a Deere 7000 non folded 12 x 30". The planter was hauled on a Donahue Trailer. I never had it folded, always felt the trailer was a better deal than those manual wing folds, and I still do.
Larry Webb who used to post on these forums, he went by Notiller, and me did some talking about a wheels forward 7000 for narrow rows. Larry did it right away. he used a 8 x 30".
I believe he increased the number of wheels the second year to six.
And he talked about the negitive hitch weight.
Several years later. I had purchased a White planter and had decided to made a narrow row soybean planter out of my Deere 7000. Only the Good Lord knows how many different designs I had dreamed up.
I started in Feb of 2004.
Four of the six wheels on my 7000 were placed on the front side of the bar. The fertilizer bar in in front of the
7 x 7 bar was cut off.
I still had two wheel assemblies left. After I had figured out where the outside rows would be I bolted these two wheels on the very end of the bar. And in the normal behind the bar location. I felt this would take care of the negitive hitch weight problem. It probably helped a great deal, but I still have negitive hitch weight if the planter is raised. In other words, it didn't help as much as I felt it would.
Transmission - Larry used the Deere drive system and tranny. He made a set-back for the row in the middle.
I cut off the standard Deere tranny and used a top of the bar tranny that I build with some guidance from Bob Jamison, The Jamison Contact Wheel Drive fellow.
I used Jamison Contact Wheel Drive.
Ever other unit set-back - I wanted set-back on every other unit, but did not want to spend the money for the Yetter Set Back Kit. I wanted to set back seven rows. At 2010 Shoup catalog prices that is 7 x $135.95 = $961.65. Probably about half that in 2004.
So I used regular Parallel upper arms from Shoup, the top arms that do not have a cross piece.
Bolted the new arms to the old with the down pressure spring holes, and welded them together.
See the 3th picture.
There is a 5" set-back.
Because of the lap, I had to drill two new holes on each row for the regular Deere 7000 down pressure springs.
This parallel arm lap weld allowed me to do some playing with parallel arm width. A standard Deere 7000 unit will not fit right behind a 7000 wheel assembly. Or will they fit between the rows. But by making the parallel arm width a bit wider I mounted the wheels right in front of rows. The arms are outside the wheel assembly.
Note - You can mount parallel arms on the U-bolt side of the bar angle. But you must grind a bit off the front corners of the arms to allow them to move the full range.
Bolts too close together - This is a BIG problem with row units 15" or so mounted on a toolbar.
It makes me think Mr Kinze is a whole lot smarter than quite a few other planter designers.
Note the 4th picture. The parallel arms for the right unit [with the drive sprocket] are as normal 7000. The parallel arms for the left unit are lap welded wider to alow row to mount a wheel assembly in front.
Those 5/8 bolts are PD close together, not a lot of fun to work on. And my units are 16" apart. Squeeze them in another inch and it would be real hard.
Note the 5th picture. This is a Bobby Greif idea. Two parallel arm mounting angles with a heavy tubing welded between. A single longer 5/8 bolt holds two parallel arms on. Much easier to work on.
And it will fit inside a 7000 wheel assembly. = Allows the wheels to run between the rows.
Why 16" and not 15"? Picture number four explain that pretty well. Also standard Deere 7000 box lids will not stay on in 16" row.
16" is close enough!!!
Two other things - I have a seed box that Shoup had for a couple years. It is narrower and higher than the regular Deere 7000 box, also goes back farther. They hold 2.4 bushel each. The Deere box with the extenstion will hold 2.6 bu.
Now use the narrow box on every other row, standard 7000 box on the rest.
The narrow boxes fixed the lid staying on problem.
I have the narrow 3" gauge wheels on every other row. And I have a stack with more than enough to do the other seven rows. Just have not ever got them on.
Trash between gauge wheels has not been a problem.
But then I plant soybeans behind a field culitivator.
The second year - I added two more wheels in front of the bar, Now six in front, two on the backside. This did nothing for the negitive hitch weight, but it now carries the weight a lot better.
Running eight wheels off of one master cylinder did cause a problem which I figured out. I was real worried for a day or so.
And I had Ag-Express made me a monitor harness. I use the Dicky John made White 3000 for my White planter on the bean planter. But I still do not have sensors on all 15 rows.
I did have a chain come off the first year without a monitor. But losing a narrow row is not as bad as losing a 30". Still looks bad, and it is always by the road where everyone can see.
The Hydraulic Motor - Someone asked about it from the picture over at Crop Talk.
Last picture number 6
Once you have a hydraulic drive planter and can run the planter standing still - You do not want to be without it.
Oiling chains, checking stuff, etc:
The motor is off my corn reel. With the chain on, it drives the shaft on the Jamison drive.
I really don't want to get into it now, but this deal cost a lot of money. $7,100- the first year. And I am not counting the planter to start with, or markers off of a White 5100.
And $2,200- the next year.
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Bobby Greif Soybean Planter
