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TX Panhandle | That’s the regulating valve for the vane transfer pump of the injection pump.
Vane pump is in the head where the aluminum housing bolts to that you took the valve out of. The set screw is under the 90.
You need either the new metal piece or the old rubber piece that was in the end of the sleeve to keep the piston and spring in place.
As the driveshaft turns, the distributor rotor turns the vanes pressurizing the cavity that’s below the screen and above the oring. There is a square cut oring under the filter that should be replaced as it seals the top parts of the pressure chamber. The fuel pushes against the bottom of the piston towards the spring and the dump slot to control pressure by the setting screw under the 90. Closer to the dump slot yields less pressure as it’s dumped back to the inlet of the vane pump. Once regulated the fuel moves toward the charging annulus and advance piston. The end of the metering valve, that sticks and causes a no start is controlling fuel coming from this annulus to the pumping plungers.
Note if your pressure setting of that valve is low you won’t charge the pumping plungers correctly and you won’t like the performance. Too high of pressure can make the advance work different also.
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Roosa-Master injection pump -- can someone confirm this part orientation?
