central - east central Minnesota - | gene_champ - 1/31/2011 11:48 i am looking at the spray foam insulation. this is for a 42x60x16 morton country craft line using the monolithic slab instead of the poles in the ground. morton guy says he can get me a 15ft overhead door with the 16ft sidewall because of the raided lower chord truss. foam guy suggested something like a high density 1/2" foam board on first to prevent the spray from sticking directly to steel. makes any future repair much easier. anything else that would work? foam board will add quite a little extra expense for just the anti sticking factor. still deciding on weather to foam the underside of roof, or put in a ceiling with blown in. what is the way to go on the roof? didn;t get a bid on that yet. bid was $7640 for all sidewalls less door area. would guess i should still line it with liner steel or painted osb. this is for 3 inches of 2# closed cell rigid at a r7 per inch.
In the recent Menards ad, I see ¾ pink polystyrene sheets (R4 - extruded) for $8.89. It would take about 100 of them to do your walls. Or consider this, put up 2 in polystryrene extruded R10) and spray on 1½ inches - it seals up everything and would give you a R20- but remember, the building is now sealed so the insulation value is greater due to no air leakes. That would cost about $5700 (R10 (@ 18.67 sheet,$1867 + 1½ spray foam @ $3800) .
I like the idea of placing something on the wall instead of sticking the foam to the steel - if you ever have a hail storm - it would be a bear to peel of the steel sideing off the foam . . . .
Tyvak or cardboad would be a good idea . . ..
Oh, I see polystyrene expanded (beadboard) at menards also - it is 10.44 a sheet for R10 - That would save $800 more bucks . .. same insulation value.
Another way to look at it . . . . . |
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