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Faunsdale, AL | I had my local shop roll or really they used a brake to bend 14 gauge steel. I used a piece of heavy wire to get the curve out toward the outside where the floor was less worn.
I like the new steel to be curved slightly more than the original floor. That way when I removed the rear stripper bar by torching all the nuts off. Most of the old bolts wouldn’t come loose. I loosened up the bolts holding the strip along the rear of the stainless steel seals and slipped the front edge of the new steel under the strip. Then I drilled up from underneath along the rear of the header where the stripper bolts were, and then used new carriage head bolts through the stripper bar and pulled pans down tight forcing them to flatten slightly and bottom into the curve of the old steel. Then we drilled up through the bottom and replaced the bottom strippers.
I started on the outer edges and laid the first pans in. Butted the next ones against them as tight as possible and worked toward the middle bolting them in. In the center I had a lap of about 6” because I didn’t want to trim the excess off.
Last thing, I welded the seams between the pans and where the lap was in front of the feeder house. If I caught the old steel below, great, but with all the bolts through them and the stripper bars etc sandwiching them down, I don’t think having them welded down was important. I just didn’t want to leave an edge where dirt could get under the new steel. | |
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635F jd bean head wear
