SE PA | HuskerJ - 4/15/2019 02:45
An old IH mechanic said to unhook the PTO lever linkage, unplug the wiring, and check for anything else that might snag. Then remove the cab from the front mounts, and tip the cab back with a loader, onto a 55 gallon barrel, which is about the right height for it to sit level. Re attach the chains from the loader to go through the door openings, and use it to hold the cab in place (or even a forklift through the door frames if you remove the doors). Make it secure, and remove the big bolt in the rear mount where it pivots, then drive the tractor forward.
If you have a red cab, the open station floor is bolted to the tractor, it is not part of the cab. All you really need to add is steps & fenders, and you are good to go. If you remove the floor mat, you should see what I mean.
Yesterdays tractors dot com has IH 66 series flat top fenders under $200 each plus shipping for new aftermarket (primed but not painted). You will need to make or get the U bolts to the axle.
The fender skins themselves aren't too pricey but you'll need the brackets to mount them as well, and they cost almost as much as the skins. Fenders, brackets, U bolts, grab handles, fender lights, battery trays, and steps. It comes close to $1000 till you're done, at least $900 I think.
The cab platform is different than the fender platform but does not need to be changed, it just isnt quite as wide, and is made in 2 pieces, which does make it easier if you ever have to take it off.
PTO handle can stay hooked up when you pull the cab off, or at least I have never unhooked it and has not ever been a problem. |
Removing cab on a 1066, worth time and effort and cost?
