AgTalk Home
AgTalk Home
Search Forums | Classifieds (30) | Skins | Language
You are logged in as a guest. ( logon | register )

Removing cab on a 1066, worth time and effort and cost?
View previous thread :: View next thread
   Forums List -> Machinery TalkMessage format
Posted 4/15/2019 13:45 (#7440903 - in reply to #7440770)
Subject: RE: Removing cab on a 1066, worth time and effort and cost?

East of Broken Bow
I am in the same boat. Bought a used 1066 that had fire damage in the dash (ammeter shorted out). The previous owner sold the doors of the cab for $900+ and was ready to part out the rest when I bought it to repair. The cab has no doors, and some broken glass from the fire and/or putting the fire out. I asked a salvage yard about the doors (red cab) and he said there is a waiting list for people wanting a left hand door for $500 - $600, and $400+ for the right hand door. Made me decide to turn it into an open station. Besides, those old cabs made it louder and hotter than without.
An old IH mechanic said to unhook the PTO lever linkage, unplug the wiring, and check for anything else that might snag. Then remove the cab from the front mounts, and tip the cab back with a loader, onto a 55 gallon barrel, which is about the right height for it to sit level. Re attach the chains from the loader to go through the door openings, and use it to hold the cab in place (or even a forklift through the door frames if you remove the doors). Make it secure, and remove the big bolt in the rear mount where it pivots, then drive the tractor forward.
If you have a red cab, the open station floor is bolted to the tractor, it is not part of the cab. All you really need to add is steps & fenders, and you are good to go. If you remove the floor mat, you should see what I mean.
Yesterdays tractors dot com has IH 66 series flat top fenders under $200 each plus shipping for new aftermarket (primed but not painted). You will need to make or get the U bolts to the axle.

Alternatively, you can remove the glass, and kind of have a 4 post canopy.

Alternative to that, you can get a steel cutting carbide Sawzall blade for about $15, and cut the cab off above where the existing fenders are on the cab. Cut the front post off flush with the floor, then just follow the curve of the cab fenders. Looks a little goofy, but fast easy, and cheap (just use a loader or forklift to lift up on cab as you cut).
One blade will do all the cutting you need, if you get one with carbide teeth, and don't pinch and break it.
Top of the page Bottom of the page

Jump to forum :
Search this forum
Printer friendly version
E-mail a link to this thread

(Delete all cookies set by this site)