| Air hammer ????|
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
|View previous thread :: View next thread|
|Forums List -> Machinery Talk||Message format|
|What is a good air hammer. Will it work in tight places where you really can’t swing a hammer|
|Snap on makes the very best I think.|
|Snap on, cornwell, Chicago pneumatic, Ingersoll rand, whatever ya do get the big one.|
Columbia Basin, Ephrata, WA
|CP717 if you’re wanting to get some real work done. |
|Snap on is the only one.. for real work|
|Had a IR I got in a combo pack. Used it maybe 3 times in 5 years. Got a snap on and it’s used about every other day. The trigger is nice, you can make it go as slow as you want to just push snug stuff on and when you open it up it has really good power. I’m buying a Texas twister soon as well, idea seems good in theory.|
NE part of SW Iowa
What do you consider "tight places"?
I've seen older short barrel air hammers, that seem that they just bounce and vibrate = don't have enough stroke or weight to really put some "punch" behind their hits.
I just have cheaper "medium barrel" air hammers, and for the fewer times, that I've used them, they worked good, but they are a bit longer, PLUS I use the Quick couplers on them, too.
I'm guessing that my medium barrel air hammers, with the "hammer head" tip, is roughly 10-11" long; thus there are places it won't fit.
Some jobs, I've had to use a 3 lb Blacksmith's hammer, held sideways, and try and tap/hammer a chisel/punch/drift; when there is no way any air hammer will work.
One idea, I have never pursued, was one of the palm air nailers. Could a person ever install a short, round piece of metal, and make then "act like" a short air hammer????
|I bought a cheap Chicago Pneumatic when I got in the business of fixing cars and thought I didn't need an expensive ne as I don't use it very often I had it for close to 30 years and never realized what a POS it was until I spent the money and bought a Snap On. |
It was expensive but when I pulled the trigger, I knew where that money went.
don't know a model no. but look for a long barreled lower cycled hammer. The little buzz guns are good for massages only. Once you get a good hammer then get most every accessory you can find. Assortment of sized roll pin punchs, rivet chisels, different sized long punches up to 24-36" (you can reach deep inside a combine get something to move), a 1/2" socket drive with a hex wrench nut center portion. The latter works well to remove manifold and turbo nuts without breaking the stud. Taper punches, barrel head cutters, the hammer bits as in a hammer type head, a hammer head type tool with "u" in the hammmer head to vibrate a shaft or just stay on target.
Ignore their antiquated website. Good products and people.
|get a heavy hitting one, and you will be amaised what you can do. a cheaper/faster/lighter one is good for making noise and sheetmetal cutting, and not much else. |
|The expensive IR works great, don’t see how a snap on could be any better.|
|Snap-on. Had a cheap one for years and thought what a joke air hammers are. Finally brought a Snap-on and I'm amazed at what it will do. That's my go to tool now. Vary seldom do I have to use any heat on frozen objects.|
|Snap On, and the biggest they got. When the guys at work get done playing around with their Fisher Price stuff I bring in my SO and let it rip. generally only takes seconds.|
Fancy prairie, Illinois
|I own 2 snap on 3050b, a cp717, and a matco long barrel one. The cp717 is definitely the most powerful but takes .498 bits. Itll be hard to get GOOD specialty bits for. Beware using cheap bits, chunks will break off and go right through clothing and will definitely blind you, not a toy. The snap on 3050 has plenty of power, is easier to control, and has a wide variety of high quality .401 bits available. The matco is junk and wouldn't recommend for any purpose. If I could only own one it would be a snap on because of versatility.|
fort smith ar
|I had a cheap one for years that didn't do much of anything productive...borrowed a snap on one day and was amazed at how it made the old one look like a toy. I quickly bought a new snap on and snap on bits. Works great on bearings, race, roll pins etc. I then bought a Texas twister thinking it might be a joke, but I thought I would give it a try. It does work great on bearing removal on combines and it way out did my expectations. Only gripe I have is it is hard to keep the ends tight where they thread to shaft that goes to hammer. Also takes a little time to get it out and all rigged up and nuts tightened. When doing combine work before harvest the Texas twister was priceless and saved alot of torching and swearing. I would recommend!|
|I owned a tire shop for 22 years. Snap on or Ingersoll Rand with an actual hammer tool are the way to go. I owned several different brands over the years. You can get punches, cut off chisels, pipe splitters, etc. We found the hammer tool to be the one we used the most. I used it a lot to remove brake rotors/drums. Go around the bolts a couple of times, I never had a drum or rotor stuck on so tight I could not get them off.|
dirtguy - 11/11/2018 18:46
get a heavy hitting one, and you will be amaised what you can do. a cheaper/faster/lighter one is good for making noise and sheetmetal cutting, and not much else.
i agree however the small fast hitters are good for creating vibrations without causing a lot of damage. basically the little can be better for more delicate jobs.
I have a new IR long barrel and its worthless IMO. The snap on is on special this month, I was just in the truck on Thursday. I might have one... yet. Astro Pneumatic has one that's pretty good, I've only seen comparison videos, never had one in my hand.
|I totally agree with Snap On and also buy Snap On bits because when they break they are guaranteed.|
|Jump to page : 1 |
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
|Search this forum|
Printer friendly version
E-mail a link to this thread