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Heater core replacement - I have a strong urge to strangle a Ford engineer
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tumbleweed
Posted 1/1/2009 19:28 (#553957)
Subject: Heater core replacement - I have a strong urge to strangle a Ford engineer



Princeton, Indiana
Here is how I spent my New Year's holiday. I've been putting this job off for to long and it was time to change out the heater core and get some heat moving in my pickup. 1997 Ford F150 so the entire dash has to come out to access the core. All of the estimates I have heard say it's about an 8 hour job if all goes well and so far that seems to be pretty accurate. I have the dash removed and the new core in place and I am at the 4 hour mark. Now its time to go back together.

I will have about $200 in parts and the dealer wanted about $700 labor so I decided to give it a shot. The core was $74 and the the little piece of sticky foam to go around it was $48!

I think I'll try to find a new plastic blend door tomorrow and replace it while I have it apart. Sure don't want to do this twice.

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Various plastic parts and accessories

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Empty hole ready for a new core

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New core ready to drop in

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New one in place

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I hope I can figure out where all of these screws and various hardware goes.

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High Cotton
Posted 1/1/2009 19:33 (#553966 - in reply to #553957)
Subject: Re: Heater core replacement - I have a strong urge to strangle a Ford engineer


Southern Illinois
Wow, I bet your back is sore from rolling around on the floor board taking out all those screws. I feel sorry for you, its too bad everything has to be a pita now days, best of luck //bob
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tommyw-5088
Posted 1/1/2009 19:34 (#553967 - in reply to #553957)
Subject: Re: Heater core replacement - I have a strong urge to strangle a Ford engineer


south Texas , York Rife Freemason
did a neighbors S-10 chevy pickup ,just as bad.

class 8 trucks are notthat bad "yet" , but the dca4 coolant addative keeps them from going out .
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crowbar
Posted 1/1/2009 19:49 (#553999 - in reply to #553967)
Subject: Is DCA-4 Compatible with Light Vehicles?


Hazelton, Kansas
Tommy:

I've had good luck with test strips and DCA-4 in my tractors, combines, etc, so I have started using it in my older pickups. So far, no problems have been apparent.

I've been hesitant to use it in newer (aluminum head, plastic radiator tanks) stuff. Does anyone have any experience/advice?

MDS



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tommyw-5088
Posted 1/1/2009 19:55 (#554010 - in reply to #553999)
Subject: Re: Heater core replacement - I have a strong urge to strangle a Ford engineer


south Texas , York Rife Freemason
i do know our trucks have aluminum heater cores ,and aluminum radiators with plastic tanks ,the heads are so far all steel .
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Jon Hagen
Posted 1/2/2009 12:59 (#554836 - in reply to #553999)
Subject: RE: Is DCA-4 Compatible with Light Vehicles?



Hagen Brothers farms,Goodrich ND
Everything on our farm gets coolant filled from a 5 gal plastic jug of 50% Diesel spec antifreeze/50% distilled water. No problems with anything including 2000 Dakota 4.7 pickup with aluminum heads and plastic radiator. I seem to have a lot LESS radiator seam problems with the old gas engine trucks I have run for 30 years, since keeping fresh diesel spec coolant in them.
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Pofarmer
Posted 1/1/2009 22:15 (#554266 - in reply to #553957)
Subject: Re: Heater core replacement - I have a strong urge to strangle a Ford engineer



Actually, that's not all that bad. On the Jeep Grand Cherokee's, at least in the mid 90's, all you had left in the vehicle was the steering wheel and pedals. You had to take the rest of the dash completely out. Chrysler mini-van's were almost as bad.
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msb
Posted 1/2/2009 00:08 (#554443 - in reply to #553957)
Subject: Re: Heater core replacement - I have a strong urge to strangle a Ford engineer


Lapel, In
I bet you could do the next one a lot faster. Its not the worst one I ever replaced. The old Chevy that I used to have was a lot worse and some models, you have to remove the right front fender. Glad I forgot what model car that was. lol.
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davpal
Posted 1/2/2009 02:07 (#554490 - in reply to #553957)
Subject: RE: Heater core replacement - I have a strong urge to strangle a Ford engineer


Mid Michigan
I feel your pain brother. I had to do it to a 99 Navigator a couple of years ago. Worst job I had done in years. I had to take out both airbags, console, steering column. The bench only has half the parts I had. Ford dealer wanted over $1000 dollars to replace a $27 dollar plastic blend door. They should have installed an aluminum blend door and it would have never broke. I also broke the clockspring in the steering column when I took it out so I got the chance to change one of them too. That was about $80 bucks! Horrible job. I know the feeling.



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dave morgan
Posted 1/2/2009 02:39 (#554492 - in reply to #553957)
Subject: RE:TumbleWeed


Somerville, Indiana
Brett Meier told me this week that all Fords had to have dash completely out to replace heater core. Most of our problems with heater core is they get loose, rattle some, then the thin a@@ed tubes wear into the body somewhere.

As far as SCAs are concerned we have them in all water cooled vehicles here, cut antifreeze with distilled water only and test with strips at least once/year. Its an easy way to avoid a lot of work and money spent on things that need not be. Won't keep a cheap radiator core from wearing through thou.

Good to see you had something to do to keep you busy Thursday. Ryan painted the 9300 IH semi tractor. Cobalt Red. He decided to take advantage of my immobility and change from company colors of Victory Red with white wheels. Brett is switching engines in my pickup in our shop.

Really hard to imagine you driving a Ford pickup with all your experiences. Must to gotten a good deal?

Edited by dave morgan 1/2/2009 02:40
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tumbleweed
Posted 1/2/2009 09:22 (#554626 - in reply to #554492)
Subject: RE:TumbleWeed



Princeton, Indiana
Good morning Dave,

I found the new blend door in stock down in Henderson so I'm off on a parts run. The women of household think they need to go to the mall so I'll drop them off and jump over the bridge. I bet I don't spend as much on parts as they spend in the mall -:)

I was able to get the core out by just moving the passenger side of the dash straight back to the seat. I doesn't have to come all the way out. Still have to drop the steering column to get the dash to pivot back far enough to open the lid on the air box. That stinkin air box lid has FIFTEEN little 8mm screws in it and the 5 on the back are no fun at all. You would think 8 or 10 would have been plenty.

The 1/4" socket adapter for the cordless drill has paid for itself on this job!
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sawfly
Posted 1/2/2009 10:11 (#554675 - in reply to #554626)
Subject: Re: Heater core replacement - I have a strong urge to strangle a Ford engineer


never done one that tough , but have a 2000 dodge pu . with filth blowing out of heater, and bad smell sometimes.
was going to get in there and see what the hell was going on. looks like a nasty job so maybe i can live with it.

maybe the jap. cars are just as bad , but do we really think they need to survive when they build stuff like that.
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BSchroeder
Posted 1/2/2009 10:59 (#554727 - in reply to #553957)
Subject: Re: Heater core replacement - I have a strong urge to strangle a Ford engineer


Devils Lake, ND
I sold my 1987 Honda Accord ten years ago, 'as-is' instead to replacing the heater core.
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Bern
Posted 1/2/2009 11:58 (#554781 - in reply to #553957)
Subject: RE: Heater core replacement - not that bad for me


Mount Vernon, WA
I replaced the heater core in my 97 Explorer last summer. It was not that bad. The entire dash had to come out, but it came out as a unit. Radio, gauges, air vents, eveything, came out as one piece.

Can there be that much difference between a 97 Explorer and a 97 F-150? I doubt it. The key to my operation was a factory repair manual. It listed every step I had to take. If I had to do the job over again, I bet I could do the whole thing in under 4 hours. Dealer quoted me 8 by the way.

In summary, I was amazed at how easy the Ford engineers made this job. I was fearing for the worst until I actually did it.
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Joel Harman
Posted 1/2/2009 12:23 (#554808 - in reply to #553957)
Subject: RE: Heater core replacement - I have a strong urge to strangle a Ford engineer


N.C. Oregon
I cheated on an older volvo...ran heater hose to a core I put on passenger floor & put a 12v fan behind it.

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Jon Hagen
Posted 1/2/2009 12:51 (#554831 - in reply to #554808)
Subject: Re: Heater core replacement - I have a strong urge to strangle a Ford engineer



Hagen Brothers farms,Goodrich ND
Tearing the entire dash out is the pits for what should be a simple job like reaching the heater core. The best I ever saw was the 65-66 Ford full size cars without AC. To R & R a heater core, all you had to do was remove 4 little sheetmetal screws and slide the core out under the hood like pulling a book off a shelf. A 1/2 hour job including removing hoses and draining the coolant. Really no good reason to make it any more complicated than that.
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Redman
Posted 1/2/2009 14:43 (#554900 - in reply to #553957)
Subject: RE: Why?


SW Saskatchewan
I hate ford pick-ups, but always seem to end up with a few because of "good" deals.

Heater cores always fail.

And are a PITA to replace.

But have never had a replacement one fail.

Are OE cores just cheap? and replacements better?

Or is that factory anti-freeze just doesn't cut it.

Has always made me wonder.
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davpal
Posted 1/2/2009 17:41 (#555043 - in reply to #554900)
Subject: RE: Why?


Mid Michigan
Reason the factory one fails is because it's 11 years old and if people drive 25,000 miles thats 275,000 miles. You put a new one in and get rid of the truck next year. Hence, no failure of the second one. It just makes a nice junkyard find for somebody. I was just at the junkyard and took a spare rim off a 88 f-250. I noticed it had a brand new radiator in a junk truck. So he never had to replace the second one either. Hauled it to the junkyard instead. Just the nature of the business. I usually find it the opposite. OEM stuff like alternators and starters last 10-15 years and you put one on every two years from Autozone or CarQuest after that point.
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Redman
Posted 1/2/2009 20:25 (#555226 - in reply to #555043)
Subject: RE: Can agree on electrical stuff


SW Saskatchewan
But first heater core likes to go in about 5 years- replacements might go next 10 till junk yard gets truck.

Agree old clunkers may not get as many miles, but hrs and yrs must count for something.

Plus after the new wears off, get a lot more chaff, hay and just dirt sucked through the vent when it ends up being a field truck.
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detroitdiesel
Posted 1/2/2009 14:59 (#554912 - in reply to #553957)
Subject: Re: Heater core replacement - I have a strong urge to strangle a Ford engineer


Chillicothe, Missouri
well, on the home from a family trip, the front heater core started leaking, and the dealer wanted 5-600 dollars to put it in, they said they would have to discharge the A/C, and take the whole dash out to put in the heater core. we started looking at it, and the found the access panel, took out 5-6 screws, removed the hoses on the firewall, removed the one screw that held the core in place. pulled the one out put the other one in and put it back together. the hardest part of the process was getting the spring clamps off the heater core down behind the turbo. had the whole thing done in about 2 hours.... prob. less. GMC Professional Grade!
another $500 towards the value of having a shop.
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ElectricKid
Posted 1/3/2009 22:41 (#556555 - in reply to #553957)
Subject: RE: Heater core replacement - I have a strong urge to strangle a Ford engineer----- Stand in line


Ontario

Before I start let me say we have had a Ford truck ( and a few other brands from time to time as well)on our farm every year since 1963 maybe more before my time!

Had the same problem as some of you. 2002 Ford F150 ...2 wheel drive 4door pickup. 1st year truck never seen the field or anything much like dirt, the old truck didn't die as quick as I thought it would. In the second year the 2002 was inthe field from spring till fall (April13- Dec5).  Dec 6 took truck to the dealer because I couldn't defrost/defog the windows , no heat. Dealer had no clue as to why it wasn't working spent 5 hours on it the first day only to discover by the end of the day air wasn't moving. Duh!. Second day they pulled the dash and bled the air conditioning system to get at the heater core. Found the problem , heater core was plugged with mud. Apparently in the summer the air con coil would sweat and get the heater core wet and being in a dusty fiekd ,dust turned to mud and plugged the core. Solution was the core out. It took them almost an hour with a pressure washer to get it clean before they reinstalled everything. End result was heater worked but not like new. But what do you expect for 11 hours of labour. The dealer was very good and ate half the bill because they had never done one before and had never had any training for that job so they wrote time off for their learning/training. They also suggested I call Ford Canada to se if they would do something since ford had no complaint history for that problem. I called and got consumer relations dept for Canada. I asked if there was a possibility that maybe there was a slight design flaw in these trucks in that the openings of the cores being too small and placement could cause the problem. The response I got was interesting and I Quote " Sir  we have no design flaws in out trucks!" click and they hung up on me and I couldn't get back thru to them after. In the end it ended up costing me about 6-7 hunderd dollars to fix the nonexistent problem and end up with a shaking and squeeky dash.

 The intersting part is that 2 years later had to do it all again. This time both heater and air coils had to be replaced because they couldn't get them clean. This time I ate the whole bill which was around 11 hundred dollars. Good thing was they finally got the dash tight and stopped the squeak.

SO far this truck has been a repair pit. It has had the stearing wheel replaced,fell apart. Bumpers replaced, rusted. Seat came un sewn. Transmission failed at 90,000 kms. Transmission is now leaking again. Spring shackles rotted out, not broke, rotted. Cd player has failed 3 times.Tie rod ends fell apart. Upper and lower ball joints premature failure. Universal joints failed at 61000kms. 1000KMS out of warranty and failed again at 100000kms. Last time replaced with greaseable.Rear cab doors lower rotted prematurely because Ford mounted the door seal over the drain holes which work great if you leave your doors open but seals the holes shut when you shut the doors which lets them fill with water. The dash fills up with dust over time so its hard to read the gauges. if you hit thr right spot with an air blast it gets sort of clean in there. The latest thing is the howling from the rear end. Just found outall the bearings and gears in the rear axle are wore out and need to be placed ... estimate is around 2 thousand dollars.

 Some say I should get rid of it but theres not much left to fix and I hear the new ones arn't much better.

 Now before you go and say I got a lemon let me say my brother has a year newer truck and his repair list is much longer, much longer and grows at a faster rate than mine. I also have many neighbours who have the same trucks of different years and all have the same problems depending on mileage, preengineered repair times ? And don't say I should get a chev or ram, been there done that ,they have lots of problems too. And to think our tax dollars on either side of the border are bailing this crap out!

Interesting side note, have been asking around and I have yet to find a Toyota or Honda truck with any problems other than maybe a mileage issue.

 Now for can you guess what I'm thinking my next truck will probably be?



Edited by ElectricKid 1/3/2009 22:42
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