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MN | Planning on putting up new shop approximately 80x100 with 20FT sidewalls wondering whether to do stick frame or pole barn style? And also what your thoughts are on a washing stall, floor heat, and spray in or batting insulation? Thanks!! |
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Central ND | For that size I would price steel too, might be worth the extra money, and since I'm spending your money use spray foam and floor heat! Is it a shop you will be using every day? If just periodic use then floor heat probably isn't the way to go |
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Northwest IA. Near Ft. Dodge | Stick frame. Dig footing, go with cement wall or that insulated block form stuff up 2 or 4 feet. Then the stick frame and tin is in 18 or 16 foot lengths and safe from water and maybe rodents. On our shop 16 foot walls with hip rafter for 15 foot overhead door and pole building. Using a footing and up 1 foot would have made a huge difference for 1 more foot of door clearance. |
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Southeast Washington | I also agree with checking on a steel building. Ours is 80 feet wide and steel was cheaper than wood. It's nice to have a nice clean vaulted ceiling inside also. |
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sw ontario | Agree with steel---we went with pole barn but turning it into a shop cost is 2x building cost so spend a little more and get a shop for life |
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Findlay, Ohio | We have them both but also have a Butler steel building which we like the best building |
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NEMO | My 2 cents. Steel doesn't burn and doesn't rot. |
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nw illinois | Vaulted ceilings in steel shops seem much quieter to me than flat steel lined ceilings common in wood structures. In floor heat is real nice. Radiant tubes probably more economical if shop is not in use every day in the winter, but in-floor provides a much more comfortable workspace. We try to wash everything outside on a concrete apron and leave the mess outside. Our 80 x 120 steel was same money as pole barn and im guessing less then stick built on foundation.
Edited by pigfarmerj 3/6/2018 18:00
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Lincoln, North Dakota | If I only had the choice between stick or pole. My pick would be stick built. But I would rather put a steel up again. |
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EC IL | Look up an EPS building before you pick either of those. Price isnt cheap. But you are not buying insulation, and your inner "liner" is cheap. The OSB is already there. |
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SW MN | XXX Never been in one. |
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South West Michigan | My initial thought was STICK framed,but the 20' sidewalls has me second guessing myself, would have to say(gulp) pole barn style. |
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| We just built a shop with 20’ wall, stick built with 2x8’s. We chose to put 16’ piles down and a two foot grade beam 10” wide, 20’ walls on top of grade beam. |
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mn | If I were to build one that size, I would look into hybrid. EPS walls and steel roof trusses. Kind of get the best of both worlds. |
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| I dont think wood is cost effective over steel is your rafter is over 50- 60 ft. So my vote would be steel if price is anywhere close. I had a poll barn with 20' side walls And they catch a lot of wind. After tearing it downI would never build another pole barn That tall and 50 would probly be my cut off point on the rafter width. |
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Homestead Montana | We did one of these http://eaglerigidspan.com/ and just love it has the vaulted ceiling and at the time it was the same price as a steel building. We have bat insulation but if I were to do it again I would go sips panels https://www.r-control.com/ Would love to talk shop feel free to email me |
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MN | What brand steel building did u go with? |
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MN | What brand steel building did you put up? |
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| Fiberglass bat insulation is a large mistake for longevity and R values compared to cellulose or spray-on. |
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SW MN | This is what I put up for shop http://www.americanbuildings.com/ |
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Lincoln, North Dakota | Star |
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SC Kansas | Stick built or steel, build on concrete. |
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SW MINNESOTA | Did you build it yourself? What size you build? Where in sw mn are you? |
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Owensville Ohio | Perka steel building . Uses steel wall posts with steel rafters, but uses wood roof and wall nailers . |
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MN | No someone else would put up 80x100 Ada, MN |
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Fairbury, NE (Southeast) | In order of preference
-Steel
-Foundation with stick frame
-way last....pole barn.
Have you ever seen a properly done foundation rot? Have a half dozen older sheds build from the late 50's to the early 70s and the foundations look like the day they were finished. Have been in Morton buildings built in the 70s and 80s that look sketchy at best at ground level.
Edited by dt4020 3/6/2018 20:30
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SW MN | No I didn't put the original shop up my self. It was a 60x75x18. I did add a lean-to some years later that was same size as shop, that 4 of us put up in about 5days. I'm at Jackson
Edited by nav698 3/6/2018 20:38
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NEIA | If I had to choose between the two, stick but first choice would be steel. Spay on Urethane insulation (I did fiberglass and wish I had urethane) , and radiant heat. My opinion infloor heat is nice but over rated. A good 2 stage radiant heater is efficient and comfortable as it heats objects and in return heats the air. Plus you can turn it up or open a door and recover quickly. Put insulation under the concrete too. |
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just a tish NE of central ND | I dont know a darn thing about shops. A late dear and good friend pointed out that if you use 4 ply posts 8 feet apart, or a 3 ply post spaced on 6 feet or stick build with a 2x6 every 2 feet you have the exact same material in the side wall support, but stick build is alot more ridgid between the spans due to no big span between the wall studs like poles spaced out 6 and 8 foot have. And finishing and insulating and wireing is MUCH nicer.
Edited by School Of Hard Knock 3/10/2018 09:03
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nw illinois | Star |
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SHOP STICK FRAME OR POLE BARN????
