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NE SD | Thinking of getting rid of my sidedresser machine and just using sprayer with some type of drop hoses or tubes. Does anyone else do it this way and want to share how or what you use? I have a sprayer with 20" or 30" spacing. Can you fold the booms up without damage to hoses or tubes or whatever you use? Would a more stiff type hose such as the hose used in floor heat pex type tube work better or stay down better? I am thinking the main advantage of this if there is any would be that we could apply the N ten days to 2 weeks later than the pulltype tractor applicator I use now.
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| This is exactly what we do. We plant 24 spray 90' so when doing 28 we fold up and strap to 60' and go from there. We extended our mounting bar so the hoses don't drag on the tires. Works awesome and we can dribble in 6' corn. We have 20" centers so we added a hose and a nozzle in strategic locations and shut off others to get to 30. Every third is in the correct place one out of three is moved over 15" and one out of every 3 is shut off. We use our rtk for steering. It's actually one of my favorite jobs of the year.
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| If you what to go the y-drop way that is the going fad do a search on here and you will see nice home made setups that are quite innovated. Also do a search on YouTube for y-drops. |
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Central Pennsylvania | I am not sure what you mean when you say you extended the mounting bar. Could you send a picture of that please? |
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| I don't have a picture of it but on our 3185 the nozzles are right over our tires folded up so we extended the mounting bars out about 4" so the tires don't hit the drops in transport mode. |
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Central Pennsylvania | i will go look at mine. I have a 3150. I get out and put the hoses up on the boom every time I fold up. sounds like there is a better way
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| Yep did that a first. There are just a bunch of flat bars holding the bars. Cut a little thicker longer bars and bingo you don't have to fold them up. |
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| Are the Y drops worth to trouble ? |
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NE SD | Are the Y drops worth to trouble ?
According to any non biased research I have seen. No. In the years ahead we will learn more but as of now no way will I spend 20k for them. |
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| I would not spend 20000 either, but like I posted guys on here posted pictures of setups they made themselves that costs a fraction of what is sold commercially. I copied one with some minor changes and a 24 row setup was less than a 1000 dollars. |
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David Loberg Northeast Nebraska | That's what we do. We used rubber spray hose, and made a aluminum/stainless bell on the end for weight to keep down in the corn rows and don't ride up on corn leaves. I put a diaphragm inside the bell, so when stop at the ends, the hoses don't drain on the endrows, and doesn't make a mess going down the road. Next year I'm going to use 3/8 air line hose with a T at the bottom of the bell to make a y drop of sorts. We also put all the drops on 5 bars that clamp to the boom. The hoses are attached to stainless nipples on the bars, to carry the weight and drag of the hoses, and then just a loop of air hose with a nozzle body cap to hook to the nozzles. Our sprayer is on 15" spacing, so we alternate every other nozzle. With everything be on five bars, we can have everything off and on in about 30-45 min. If we know it's too windy to spray, we'll put on and sidedress, and go back to spraying next day when wind goes down. Edit: As can see in the photo, the hoses would catch the tires unless tied them up with bungees. This year will build a bracket that can hook those hoses on/stand them off to speed up process and not have to bungee each bunch.
Edited by dalobe01 2/11/2017 11:42
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NE SD | Can I get some more info on that setup? |
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Sw Ohio | I've been doing it this way for 20+ years. I have a 120 ' boom on a Miller 4275 that covers 49 rows. I can run at 10 mph so the biggest problem is keeping 28% supplied. Agrotain is used some, depending on rain forcast and residue on surface. |
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Frytown, Iowa | Buy two drop sticks and put them together, these are stiff enough to stay below canopy but will bend if boom hits the dirt. On the bottom put in a white (24) mesh tip screen... with an 89-120 sized orifice depending on flow/ac/tip, and a hose barbed quick connect to house the orifice and screen... attach a larger diameter 6 inch long rubber hose to the bottom for wear as well as allowing the pressure to dissipate and prevent splatter...
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David Loberg Northeast Nebraska | Sure. I attached some more close up pics. I am going to try the t at the bottom attached to the orfice inside this year to try and band up against the rows instead of the center. The bolt through the side of the pipe had a added benefit wasn't planning on, when going along it'll flip up little chunks of dirt running across the ground, and mix it in with the N.
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SE ND | . |
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N.W. Illinois | I would recommend applying the N every other row. We have been very happy doing it.
Every other row cuts your cost in half for equipment, greatly simplifies folding and unfolding, is half the weight on the boom, and is half the amount of equipment to maintain. Also you are not applying any N on the compacted wheel tracks rows from the sprayer. Finally and most importantly the corn plants does not care if it's pulling the N from just one side of the plant. We've never seen any adverse effects applying the N on just one side of the corn plant and have been doing it for a number of years.
Also consider 32% instead of 28%. You will get over 11% more acres done p/fill.
edit to add photos of what we came up with last summer to side dress bigger corn.
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SW Illinois | . |
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| I did something like that my last corn year in 2007. I started to side dress corn nearly 4 feet tall with my 4020 and my home made three point sprayer. The 4020 had 11.00-16s on the front and 12.4-42 on the rears for better row clearance from the rear tires. After I broke my coulter bar the first pass across the field, I changed to drops instead of the hoses with orifices feeding the same coulters and ammonia knives I used on the planter (and I have posted pictures of the planter several times on this forum). My sprayer used an electric pump so it was easy to shut down pressure at row ends and let the hoses drain. The hoses were probably 3/8" id plastic sold for ammonia and I taped on 3/4" steel hex nuts for weights. I spaced them on 60" centers. Occasionally a corn leaf lifted the hose up and got a burn streak from the 32% but that didn't seem to hurt much. I had put down 11 pounds of N with 100 pounds of MAP just before planting and put down 60 pounds of N as 32% with the planter. I applied 40 pounds side dressing and with a good choice of corn number I harvested 173.2 bushel corn dried at the elevator that year. There was rain in the forecast in a couple days that I'm sure helped get more of the 32% into the ground though there is a little evidence that the stream soaks in fairly good by itself.
The late application of the side dressing did show. In August when all the neighboring corn fields were firing the lower leaves mine were dark green. I did a late season stalk test and it was something like 238 ppm, really low and by the time the corn dried the stalks were thin and looked so weak they would fall over soon but the harvest went well. I think the last side dressing was one of the reasons I got that much yield on that little N.
I can see in ND that 32% wouldn't be a popular item because it salts out at about 32 degrees F. 28% doesn't salt out until about zero F.
Gerald J. |
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SE ND | . |
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SESD | I noticed this in c and r supply catalog. Looks like a good alternative to y drops.
http://www.crsupply.com/products/dropnozzles/
Edited by JRthefarmer 2/11/2017 17:04
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Scott City KS | Good posts in here, thanks for sharing guys.
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NE SD | This looks very interesting also. Where did you get it? Cost?
Thanks |
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West central Ohio | Hey fourcubs. What is the reason you don't you sidedress 90'? |
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West central Ohio | I love sidedressing corn when it is waist to chest high. I always used old 3/8" air hose out of shop. Nice and limber, doesn't try to curl up. Bought 1/2" barbs to go in caps and now use 1/2" drop hose. Some old hose works best, even if it is stiff. If starting with new hose, lay it out in sun and tie rope or wire to each end and fasten each end to something and pull it tight and keep stretching the hose couple days for so it will stay straight when you cut drop hoses. I have always dribbled a single stream so I put the orfice disc in cap at the top where drop attaches to nozzle body. If you have trouble with hoses riding up, you can insert a short length of pipe in bottom of hose. I try to run my boom height as low to corn as possible. Middle 6 rows or so I usually use the 24" nylon drop tubes with orfice at top. Some people use the nylon drop tubes with a length of rubber hose clamped to bottom end of drop. I like to stream every row for no more than it costs for equipment to do it. I used to do 24 rows with 23 drops with each end drop getting a 1.5X rate. Some years those rows on each end of boom would get a little pale before they caught the sidress N. Usually have at least 60 units N ahead of sidedress. Find it works well to attach hose to nozzle body and loop hose up over boom and secure with 2 wire ties. That's how I do the rows that don't have a nozzle body in right spot. Sometimes in tall corn the nozzle body would rotate out of positiion so I loop all the hoses up and over. If I want to switch back to spraying, I just disconnect the hose and flip them up and zip tie them to boom. Don't take them off until done sidedressing. |
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Edited by Boone & Crockett 2/12/2017 01:56
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N.W. Illinois | My nephew, son, and myself crunched it together right before side dressing last summer.
We have been dropping in N for a number of years on a limited number of acres with just regular drop tubes and swivel nozzle bodies. We started expanding it to most of our acres a couple of years ago and the extended time frame to do it meant dropping the N into much bigger corn. We are starting with the corn at knee height and finishing at shoulder height.
Cost to build the drops wasn't much.
The fiberglass tubes are 1 inch diameter 4 ft long we purchased here https://www.mgs4u.com/ecommerce/product/1-od-round-tube/ They run about $7.00 a piece.
Our local welding shop made the boom mounting brackets and also cut and pressed the steel used on the bottom of the tube to protect the nozzle bodies and add a little weight to the bottom of the drop tube.
I think the swivel nozzle bodies are from teejet and run about $5.00 Our swivels are white and the ones in the pics shown on this link are black some I'm not sure https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie...
The nozzles are just regular plastic nozzles we drilled out to about 1/8" to stream instead of spray. We matched up our gal p/ac with the pressure and speed we wanted to run and kept drilling them out until they matched.
The rest is pretty much just hose, fittings, and lots and lots of stainless steel clamps.
The fiberglass tube is mounted to a 1" rubber hose for flexing. It hung down pretty good between the corn rows unless on big corn there was a cross wind blowing the corn leaves to one side. Then the drops wanted to ride up on the corn causing N burn. We had some 4 ft fiberglass fencing rods sitting around and clamped them onto side of the the down tube for more resistance. They worked great.
We are hilly here so running the drops with boom auto height was a joy. You just have to remember to manually bump the boom wings up going through waterways or the booms will settle fast.
We call the them I-Drops :)
Edited by mounder 2/12/2017 08:21
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| Run the planter tracks and capacity get to be an issue. Physically can pump it fast enough. |
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NW IA | saving for later |
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Manitoba | nt |
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NC IN | . |
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Applying 28 with drop hoses/tubes with sp sprayer?
