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Slick setup for early 4020 block heater Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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abordone |
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SW Indiana | Saw this at an antique tractor show. Don't know anything about it and didn't get to talk to the owner. Anyone know anything about it? (IMG_0885.JPG) (IMG_0884.JPG) Attachments ---------------- IMG_0885.JPG (106KB - 296 downloads) IMG_0884.JPG (134KB - 274 downloads) | ||
Phred |
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NE Mo | Concern I thought those perk type heaters need to mounted Vertical | ||
Offroadnt |
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Southern Alberta Canada | I can't find information on them but I think you're right, with the cord down. I have seen them installed different ways and actually work though, it seems like one of those things people buy, toss the instructions and just stick on their engines, most of the time it works. This one probably works but I don't think it would be very efficient due to heat loss in that large radiator hose, also I think it's actually flowing the hot water into the radiator hose and drawing from the block. | ||
steve c-il |
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Central Illinois | When I worked at NAPA 40+ years ago we sold Kats brand heaters. That was one of many unique fittings they had to adapt to various equipment. Cut a hole in the hose and had another curved plate and brass nut on the inside. Tees and y's and hose barbs of every size. I remember them having a 3/4" hose barb with 1/4" male pipe thread to replace the coolant drain plug in the side of engine blocks. They even had a Rod type heater to replace the cylinder head bolt on some engines. The regular tank style heater was to be mounted vertical but they also had another type that percolated like a coffee pot. Those were designed to be mounted horizontally with the outlet end having just a slight pitch up. Edited by steve c-il 12/24/2016 07:27 | ||
Ford 401 |
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Northeast Pennsylvania | That setup should work just fine. All the heaters we run are also the perk type and as long as there's an upward slant they will push hot water. | ||
farmwithjunkrrv |
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South west of Winnipeg MB | There is also one that goes right in the lower rad hose. I like freeze plug best if I can. | ||
JD 9400 |
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Southern Pa. | By the way fellows, that's a late 4020, not an early one. | ||
ccjersey |
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Faunsdale, AL | Looks like it would be easy to get enough slope by installing the nipple in the upper end of the hose next to the water pump. After seeing one of those little heaters burn the hoses off, i don't know if I could ever leave one unattended. Guess the leaking coolant should have put out the hose fire! Good thing it never gets that cold here for long! | ||
Ford 401 |
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Northeast Pennsylvania | If you burned off a hose it wasn't installed correctly, or you left a pepcock closed on your block. | ||
mcfarm |
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central Indiana | my heater is like that only mounted vertically on the other side above fuel pump | ||
steve c-il |
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Central Illinois | The "perk" type had a check valve so the warm water only flowed one direction. In the OP's pic,it would draw water from the radiator hose and push warm water in to the block. | ||
LNS8310 |
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N.C. Iowa | Noticed that also, the block has ears for an air compressor. | ||
School Of Hard Knock |
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just a tish NE of central ND | That engine block heater on a 4320 block.(my guess) Ive never seen one spliced into the lower radiator hose and I dont think that laying horizontally is the correct instalation. ..... There is a check ball in some of those heaters on the upper outlet so they only work right in upright position, I also have never seen a radiator hose port splice device like the one in the radiator hose.I do suppose that the unit could work though, Most run a 3/4 inch hose around to the other side and place the heater below a entry port into the head on the right side.Those heaters put out more heat and draw higher amperage than the soft plug heaters do.mine si at least 1500 watts. I use both in ours as it sits outside and when it gets below zero the wind will take out as much heat from the block as the soft plug heater can make.So I have the option to use both when it is real cold and windy. | ||
RickB |
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Lincoln County. NC | JD 9400 - 12/24/2016 09:01 By the way fellows, that's a late 4020, not an early one. So there's no good reason not to use a frostplug style. | ||
Tazzerblue |
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SW MN | Why heat all the water!!! OUR 1970 4020 came with block heater.. and I remember replacing it once. Edited by Tazzerblue 12/24/2016 11:10 | ||
jd8850 |
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Roseglen, North Dakota | Depends on what is meant by late mode . 69 and 70 have no place in block for soft plug. 71 and 72 do | ||
JD 9400 |
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Southern Pa. | jd8850 - 12/24/2016 12:05 Depends on what is meant by late mode . 69 and 70 have no place in block for soft plug. 71 and 72 do If you look at the right pic, you can see a frost plug on this tractor. I personally prefer the style that go in the block. It's a cleaner looking setup, IMO. But the canister style are 1500 watts, vs. 1000 for the other one. | ||
littlejoe |
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Big Sky Country | Ford 401 - 12/24/2016 08:21 If you burned off a hose it wasn't installed correctly, or you left a pepcock closed on your block. Or it was air locked. Had big propane fired one on a cummins 855, burnt 'em off ricky tick! More hose, let coolant flow thru, lite it again, worked for yrs. | ||
Gerald J. |
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The preside console Deere heater put the hot water in the right side of the head where there are few pipe plugs threaded into the head. Got cold water by adding a T to the block drain valve on the left side like the heater pictured above. I don't know about the side console 4020 heater. Gerald J. | |||
JD 9400 |
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Southern Pa. | Yep, I've seen them many times. | ||
mschultz |
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Oregon | I think you would see the turbo oil return line in the second photo if it was a 43. Also, the 4320 runs 2 fan belts. That tractor has one. So probably not a 43, even before you consider the old-style 1/2 chevron weight bracket. I do not like the pictured design as much as pulling from the top of the other side of he block because it may pull cold water from the radiator rather than recirculating water within the block. edit: Not to mention, the splice into the lower radiator hose looks like it leaks (rust). So, this just seems like an overall bad idea compared to pulling supply water from the top of the other side of the block. -Mike Edited by mschultz 12/24/2016 17:22 | ||
PatCMO |
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Pilot Grove, Missouri | I think that is a newer engine, maybe from a combine. The notches in the back of the damper puller are for a magnetic tach pick-up sensor, I believe. Patrick | ||
JD 9400 |
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Southern Pa. | PatCMO - 12/24/2016 18:12 I think that is a newer engine, maybe from a combine. The notches in the back of the damper puller are for a magnetic tach pick-up sensor, I believe. Patrick I have a '71 4020. I replaced the original damper pulley several years ago with a new one from Deere. My new damper pulley looks exactly like the one in the picture. I don't remember anymore what the original one looked like. So from my observations, that engine just looks like mine 100%. | ||
JD 9400 |
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Southern Pa. | Good observations. The block, single fan belt, and no turbo return line all lead me to believe its a late 4020. Looks 100% like my '71 4020. | ||
School Of Hard Knock |
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just a tish NE of central ND | Good eye, both my 4320's had double belts. | ||
KMech |
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Missouri | We've got an early model 4020 on the farm. It's dampener looks like that. To my knowledge it's original. | ||
PatCMO |
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Pilot Grove, Missouri | Not the first time I've been wrong. I'll have to look at my '66 4020, it's probably the same too. Patrick | ||
MacUsma1983 |
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SE Iowa, Henry County | Following | ||
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