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| Have a friend that needs to put a block heater on a 4020 diesel for grinding feed 3-4 times a week think it is a 1965 model. He priced a JD version and it was over $300 for the kit. Did some searching and saw all the warnings about if putting one in a radiator hose to make sure it is not mounted horizontal, warnings on the high amperage draw units that can present fire hazards by overloading cords and outlets. His does not have a freeze plug to install tone of those units. Also saw the mention of the Kat circulating tank heater Any idea what one of those run and where does a person order or get one of them. Any information, ideas, suggestions and most of all pictures of what you have installed on your 4020 woudl be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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sc ia | Won't this one work? https://www.amazon.com/BLOCK-HEATER-ENGINE-Deere-Tractor/dp/B00L3M7T... |
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| Have something similar on mine and had worked well for 20 years.
INDY |
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| He said he has no freeze plug to accept this type unit. How/where is yours installed ? Have a pic ? |
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Walnut Grove MN USA | Tank heaters work just fine. That's what I have on my '65 4020. For a tractor that will see a fair amount of use and is needed for an important job like that I would install a shutoff valve on each side to make it easy to replace the heater when it craps out. Seems like they quit at the worst possible time and it sucks draining out the antifreeze at -10F. Mine is installed on the left side of the engine near the front . |
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swmn | Have one on a 2510, took the petcock out and plumbed in a tee and hooked heater up to one side if the tee and ran the other up on top of the head somewhere. |
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Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80 | Here's some internet photos: (I don't have any pictures from Dad's 1964 JD4020 with this external heater, but plumbing is similar) Outlet (HOT) goes to cylinder head Bottom hose (cold) comes from left side of block {See photos} Edit: I'll add that Dad did use JD's heater for awhile, but when it failed, a few times $$$, then he just used the hardware store's brand(red one) and it worked fine = I think it is held onto the original JD bracket with 2 big hose clamps(with heater in vertical position, just like John Deere heater, that is shown)
Edited by 4WD 12/15/2016 21:29
 (heaterhoseblockheater[1].png)
 (john deere heater.jpg)
 (4020 left side_coolant hose in block_2.jpg)
 (johndeere-4020 with external block heater.jpg)
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 heaterhoseblockheater[1].png (10KB - 505 downloads)
john deere heater.jpg (86KB - 388 downloads)
4020 left side_coolant hose in block_2.jpg (74KB - 431 downloads)
johndeere-4020 with external block heater.jpg (155KB - 400 downloads)
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| Have installed several of these for people. John Deere option. Works good for our needs here. Started the nieghbors 4020 today (10 degrees) to get out another piece of equipment fired like it was sunny and 75.
PN: AR42326 $184.97
The one t-boss listed will not work.
Von can I email you about something equipment related?
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Central Illinois | I assume you need a tank heater like I have on my 4020. The Kats heaters are available at NAPA.
Shoup has a tank heater available. http://www.shoupparts.com/2204037/ |
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| The factory heater takes coolant from a T added at the block drain valve on the left side. Runs a small hose to the right side of the engine and plumbs the hot coolant into one of the pipe threaded plugs on the head. After 50 years those can be HARD to get out. I've seen installation instructions in my manual or shop manual.
Gerald J. |
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| If he wants one to work, guaranteed, the JD kit is highly recommended. If you want to try a different heater at least source the JD fittings that screw into block and head for easier hose hookup. Hope this helps. |
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| Gerald J. - 12/15/2016 21:13
The factory heater takes coolant from a T added at the block drain valve on the left side. Runs a small hose to the right side of the engine and plumbs the hot coolant into one of the pipe threaded plugs on the head. After 50 years those can be HARD to get out. I've seen installation instructions in my manual or shop manual.
Gerald J.
They have came out best for me when everything is warm. Could be just me. |
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| That's exactly how our 30 and 4020 were plumbed up for a heater. They were on a dairy so they were plugged in everyday. The main thing to remember is to mount the unit low enough in relation to the block so that is circulates the water properly. The hot hose should always go upward as it travels toward the head. It shouldn't have a dip in it. The heater should be mounted as vertical as possible also.
Edited by baler brian 12/15/2016 21:18
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| I have had a tank type on a 3020 since back in the early 70's. I think the one on it now is the third one. When I have livestock and used it everyday I had it on a timer so it didn't run all night. Works great. |
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west central wisconsin | Same here... on our 4020 and 4520..... very long lasting and do a great job for us. |
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N.C. Iowa | The one mentioned above is the best, kats are ok also. Borrowed 4WD picture, this is what we have on our 3020, works great.
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Hagen Brothers farms,Goodrich ND | I have a lower hose heater in my 64 4020 gas. It works well, but is limited to about 600 watts. 600 watts is less likely to melt your power cord, but also if the tractor is outside in very windy cold winter weather, 600 watts might not be enough.
It's a real clean fit in the slanted part of the lower hose that runs up to the engine.
I prefer block heaters or lower hose heater if block heater is not available. The only thing I don't like about a tank heater is that they add clutter and have a lot of exposed surface that loses heat to the air.
http://www.partdeal.com/zerostart-lower-radiator-hose-heater-600-wa...
Edited by Jon Hagen 12/15/2016 22:32
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| Sure just remove the NOSPAM out of the email address in my profile. |
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East central Indiana | JD4230 - 12/15/2016 21:10
Have installed several of these for people. John Deere option. Works good for our needs here. Started the nieghbors 4020 today (10 degrees) to get out another piece of equipment fired like it was sunny and 75.
PN: AR42326 $184.97
The one t-boss listed will not work.
Von can I email you about something equipment related?
Have one on my 1969 4520 and one on my 730D works good, but takes about two or 3 hours to heat things up if you plug in on a cold morning. Have been on tractors a the lot of years. Put 2 or 3 heating elements in over time. |
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| we have had very good results with the kats tank heaters--they are available in 1000--1500--and 2000 watt capacities depending on your system capacity and your local temperature range.we also have some original jd heaters but they are becoming cost prohibitive to replace.with the kats units we bolt a piece of angle iron to the frame and anchor the heater to it with two worm gear hose clamps set up so the circulation is the same as the jd unit.also one extremely important thing is don't skimp on extension cord wire--we use 10-3 cords none of this 12 to 16 gauge wire for this application. BE SAFE !!! |
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Nusbaum Farms LLC Bellfountain, OR | Von, I have one of the JD tank style that I purchased for our '67 4020 but never installed as I wound up rebuilding the engine and that solved the starting problem.
Email in profile is good if he's interested. I'm not particularly proud of it. It's moved from shelf to shelf for the past 18 years :-)
-Orin |
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Lincoln, North Dakota | I would install a tank heater. Have them on several tractors and they do a good job |
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Oregon | Jon:
I thought a lot about this back in my Minnesota days.
The advantage of the tank style (plumbed as described above) over the lower-radiator-hose inline style is that it circulates water, primarily, around the block rather than through the radiator. The tank heater draws cold water from low on the left side and returns hot water high on the right side. As that hot water cools, it is pulled down to the return and recirculated. The recirculated water on the cold side is, in time, warmer than the ambient air temp.
If you have felt these in action, that cold return is no where near as cold as ambient air temperature. This means that the heater tank is eventually heating water that is warmer than ambient air temp, once the block has warmed a bit. Therefore, as the return supply warms, the properly-plumbed 404 tank heater becomes more efficient / produces a warmer engine.
The problem with the lower-radiator-hose design is that it basically guarantees that the heating element will be getting a supply of ambient-air-temp water rather than water that is being recirculated in a warm block. The reason that the in-hose style must heat colder water is because it is drawing from the radiator where there has been ample opportunity to cool any warm water back down to ambient air temp. That is the radiator's job, after all. The tank heater no doubt loses some heat to the radiator- but because it is circulating primarily in the block and not pulling from the radiator, I think that it is a more efficient design- even considering tank surface area.
For that reason, I believe that the concern for a tank heater surface area is less than the certainty that an inline element in the lower radiator hose will always be pulling and heating the very coolest possible water from the radiator. Add wind, and I do not see any way for that radiator to retain any heat for the supply side.
I've never experienced a 1500w tank heater in a Minnesota winter that was not more than sufficient to make a 404 start like summer.
-Mike
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West Central IL | We have an aftermarket one that looks like the deere kit on our '66 4020. It was on there when we bought it at a sale probably 30 years ago and it still works great. One thing about it, that tractor will start down to 25 degrees without heat. I always heard of the hard starting 4020's and my father in law had one, but the two we got are pretty good starters in the cold. We use our '66 to grind feed with too. Our '72 runs our load out auger at our bins, but it's in the shop getting split now, rear seal on the hydraulic side went out the other day. |
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Western Iowa | I have installed the Deere one on several tractors as well
I use one on my 4010 on the feedwagon. Been 3 years in a row I have had to replace the element due to the thermistor going out. Any of you guys having that problem? Seems silly to buy a new $90 element for a little thermistor that costs a few dollars, but I haven't been able to source them separately.....
I never had that problem in the past, just the new ones I have purchased the last few years. |
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Hardin County, Iowa | I found some on-line and ordered four or five. They aren't exactly the same but I was able to make it work. The shipping was more than the cost of the parts. I can't remember for sure, but I think I just googled the numbers on the part. Paul |
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Jefferson MA | Have the same as Jon on my 3020. Works good but is a bit slow on cold days like today (0F). It will take 3 hours to get warm. Had the Deere style on a 4020 and it worked much faster. |
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WC Ohio | The green tank type from Deere are good. A lot better than newer style that are red canisters. I like them better than the true block heaters because they are easier to work on. |
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scmn | Freeze plug style only used on '71 and '72 models. |
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ecmn | yeah you mount a tank heater and run hoses. |
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SW Indiana | nt |
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Hardin County, Iowa | Here is the link for the "thermodiscs" that I ordered and used on our 4020 tank heater - the John Deere one.
http://www.electronicsurplus.com/therm-o-disc-36tx21-2310-l230-40f-...
It is not exactly like the John Deere part but we were able to make it work without too much trouble. It has worked fine last winter and this one so far.
Paul |
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Early 4020 block heater source.
