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EC Indiana | I am rebuilding my old 7000 and want to upgrade the closing wheel brackets. Not sure what to go to though. Would I be best to replace with the 7200 series or go to the 17xx series brackets. Am thinking of going with something spoked for a closing wheel or maybe the Schlagels - not interested in the old roll pin system on the current setup. What have others done here and what would you recommend. Want to be able to repair/replace wheels & bearings alot easier than is now possible on the 7000. Thanks.
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DE | IF, and I'm not sure about this you will have to check, if the 1700 series arm will fit the 7000 planter that would be the best choice if you want to run dawn curve tines. Dawn no longer has bearings for the 7200 series arm which is what I have. I would like to try the Dawns myself but I have installed the r-k products bearing kit where the metal bushings use to be to eliminate the metal to metal grinding and sloppy play. Once you get them set, you never have to worry about them again! Can't weld the bearing setup on the 1700 cast iron arm. They have the old metal to metal grinding bushings. You can put the schlagels on the 7200 arm which I think I will try one this year myself. I should add, the 1700 cast iron arm is much thicker than the 7200 arm at the bushing location plus cast iron is longer wearing than the 7200 steel arm so the 1700 arm and replaceable bushings would probably last a good while longer than the standard 7200 setup. That's why I put the bearing kit on mine. Not even sure if the 1700 were out yet when i did it.
Edited by cowhater 2/16/2008 17:45
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north central Oklahoma | Thread hihack alert!!!!!!. Sorry, but have a question for ya cowhater. Am installing the R-K bearings too. It looks too simple, but once you get them in, there is no adjustment like the old cams. Did you have a trick in getting the collars in the correct place from the get go. I have an older 7200 8 row with the vertical slot in the block below the shank, but no horizontal slot underneath to adjust from that angle. It just seems that I need to be real precise with collar placement or I could be asking for headaches later. Save a fellow NATer from pulling his hair out, and I don't have much to start with. Putting Schlagels on also, which by their looks would not be as critical for lineup as the spiked closers the way I look at it. |
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Macon, IL | I put the Shoup 7200 knockoffs on my 7000. Been fine, using Dawn Curvetine and Martin Closing wheels-both bolted up fine. |
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Aberdeen MS | Dawn has a "stub" that can go into the tube making an axle of sorts for the curvetine to then bolt onto.
The one con with that system is the Timken bearing isn't available for that setup, you will have to use the older ball bearing style curvetine. But that isn't the end of the world. It's still a step up from the rubber tired/water pump bearing closing wheel.
I will be setting up my 7000 with them this spring. |
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Driftless SW Wisconsin | Thanks for the clarification Bruce. We (Dawn) DO have Curvetines which will fit the JD7000 and older Kinze style tailpiece with the waterpump style bearing. We also have Curvetines for the JD 7200 stud type tailpiece as lng as they are post 1993 style with the little removeable sleeve. No matter whose closing wheel you use please check the tail piece for lateral play. These are 10-30 years old. I have been in Louisville for the past four days. Large crowds and a lot of interest in the Curvetine and Striptill especially. Nice to have folks paying attention to their planter. Thanks to those from NAT who stopped by to say hello. Good to put a face with a name. Jim at Dawn By the way, one of the key discussion points on closin wheels is how do they work in VARIED tillage systems such as when you do some notill, some mintill or strip till and some conventional.
Edited by Jim 2/16/2008 19:43
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southern Illinois | I put the Sloan Express knockoffs on my 7200& they worked fine! |
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Lac qui Parle County Minnesota | Cowboycorn, I know what you're talking about. You want them pretty straight to begin with. Years ago a bought a kit that had a tool for setting bigger replacement bushings. Make a long story short, and a different planter, I ordered the RK replacements and used the old tool to set them. It was for a 7000 series but the principle would work on others. Basically it was t shaped with a pipe for the short piece that goes across. I found a couple of old bearings that fit the bearing holders and put a bolt through the whole works. I then lined up the long end with the middle of the tail end and then tightened the bolt. That way I knew the bearings were lined up with each other and were perpendicular to the end. Clear as mud right? If you like I can post some pictures tomorrow of the tool I used. |
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DE | My 7200 is 1995 model and the arm stop (piece that arm bolts to) has slot in the rear and round hole in front where it bolts to shank. this allows the arm stop to be moved from side to side thus moving the closing wheel arm. Little awkward to adjust (need socket and extension) but once they are adjusted, never have to worry about them again. If you don't have that rear slot in your arm stop, then I can think of two solutions. One would be to remove the arm stop and get a carbide die grinder or milling machine and cut the rear round hole into a slot to allow for side to side adjustment. Shouldn't take much of a slot for adequate adjustment. Two, which since you already have the r-k bearings you may not like, but Shoup has a weld on bearing kit (PF7200) that actually has eccentric bushings that fit in the bearings providing side to side adjustment, page 24 of the Spring 2008 catalog or here is link: http://www.shoupparts.com/Catalog/View.cfm?type=Product&ShoupID=PF7...
Edited by cowhater 2/16/2008 21:50
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DE | Jim, the reason I stated that Dawn curve tines would no longer fit a 7200 was because of this email that I received back in August of '07 ( my 7200 is a 1995) :
I'm sorry but we have decided to stick with Timken bearing hub versions only. To put Curvetines on a 7200 requires that you change the tailpiece to bolt-on style cloosing wheels. Most of the original lightweight sheet metal tailpieces are about worn out now any way. There are some parts you can get from JD to change a 7200 to the 1700 style cast tail piece:
These pn's may have been superceded but will get you started at a dealership: Parts reqd:
1 pc A-55889 Pivot Casting
1 pc A-61351 Tail piece casting
2 pcs A-55888 Bushing
1 pc A-55143 Pin
Total cost is about $70-80/row but money well spent in most cases. This fixes the pivots plus gives you a great all-condition closing system.
Then you can use our Dawn 1201-R and 1201-L Curvetines.
You can also reuse the original 7200 rubber tires if desired, just needs the JD bolt, spacer and nut.
Regards,
Jim Bassett
Dawn Equipment Company
370 N Cross PO Box 497
Sycamore, Illinois 60178 USA
Tel 815-899-8000 or toll free 800-554-0007
Fax 815-899-3663
email: [email protected]
website: www.dawnequipment.com
----- Original Message -----
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 10:04 AM
Subject: Curvetine closing wheel
What model number of curvetine closing wheels are used on a JD 7200 planter? thanks.
Edited by cowhater 2/16/2008 23:39
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sc kansas | we used the 17xx's series closing wheel bracket and adjustable bushings. just machined off the raised lip on the left hand bushing and bolted on. still had all adjustment needed to align properly and ran them for years. |
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DE | another option that will probably fit right on to your existing arm stop is the kinze arm that shoup offers on page 9 of spring '08 catalog. The kinze uses an eccentric bushing in conjunction with a hex step bushing that fits into the arm. So instead of replacing the entire arm when things wear out, you just replace the hex step bushing. link: http://www.shoupparts.com/Catalog/View.cfm?type=Product&ShoupID=SH0...
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north central Oklahoma | I think I catch what you are describing, but, heck, if ya got some pics, yeah send 'em. Post either here or to me email in profile. Wouldn't take up bandwidth here anyway.
Thanks,
CC out |
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north central Oklahoma | Yeah Cowhater, I saw those in Shoup after I ordered R-K. I have used R-K in the past and they have never let me down, good products, I just felt the cam may have been a better option to have here. R-K suggested I grind out the back hole too, not a big deal they say. He also had a handful of reasons why R-K was better than the ones Shoup carries. I will make it work, and I think they will be longer lasting once in, just wanted to get t hem in right the first time. |
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Driftless SW Wisconsin | Sorry about that - we had a change in plans since that email and some equipment additions to our shop. Due to demand ( and Joe's convincing me) we now also offer a ball bearing version, the 1302, which is the same wheel casting as the rest of our Curvetine XR's but machined with a ball bearing hub to fit the JD7200/7300 tailpiece's welded in stud and the JD 7000/older Kinze with the original waterpump type tailpieces. The 7000's require our stud kit also. Any toothed type closing wheel is tougher on bearings than a smooth rubber wheel due to the intermittent ground contact of the teeth compared to the relatively smooth continuous rolling of a rubber tire. We/I still prefer the Timken tapered roller bearings but there is no way to put them on these two std tailpieces. The 1302 has a spread, non sealed ball bearing arrangement that is NOT pre sealed but uses our same CR triple lip seal and nylon ring arrangement and regreaseable Supercap. By the way, due in part to the increase in in-furrow pop-up fertilizer use we are now recommending that the zerk be left in the Curvetines (but NOT in Trashwheels nor coulters). We suggest that you give the Curvetines a shot or two of grease every couple days to purge fertilizer and dirt from the seal. All of our products use a purging type triple lip seal - you CAN push grease past this type seal without hurting it - in fact it helps seal life. This is very different from a U-cup type seal which can be damaged by over greasing. To repeat - it is recommended to grease Curvetine hubs every couple days especially when fertilizer is being used. I also feel the Timken bearing model 1201 or 1301 Curvetines should be used wherever possible. Planting time is too valuable. The tapered roller bearing is best running at an angle as closing wheels do. I am sorry I did not remember to inform you of the change since that email. Most of those older tailpieces do need changing however due to wear. Regards, Jim at Dawn I'll add a picture of one per row, two per row and the action of the Curvetine as it exits the soil more vertically.
Edited by Jim 2/17/2008 01:53
 (Dawn Curvetine XR IMG_0492.jpg)
 (Dawn Curvetine XR two per row on JD XP tailpiece.jpg)
 (Dawn Curvetine in action no till corn on corn WI dscn0260_small.JPG)
Attachments
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 Dawn Curvetine XR IMG_0492.jpg (36KB - 572 downloads)
Dawn Curvetine XR two per row on JD XP tailpiece.jpg (41KB - 579 downloads)
Dawn Curvetine in action no till corn on corn WI dscn0260_small.JPG (84KB - 569 downloads)
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| I think the Kinze set up is probably the cheapest bought a 2000 replacement(which would bolt right on a 7000 planter) has two sets of holes, in case you want to offsest the wheels and is set up for bolt on wheels the frame was about twenty dollars and the adust handle was about $5. This was from Sloan, I figured the chances of always getting the Kinze parts to replace were pretty good, some of the aftermarket setups even the ones sold by Deere have come and gone. I have some 7200 arms I would give you if you can figure out a way to make them work.
Edited by dixonman 2/17/2008 08:24
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| I would avoid the 7200 closing bracket -- it limits the possibilities too much. The 7200 closing bracket's stud shoulder is a metric size, which is a bit of an oddball in the USA's closing wheel options. Also, with the welded stud, you wouldn't be able to add any toe-out should you at some point decide you need it. The brackets using a bolt to hold the closing wheel give you more options. The Kinze closing brackets (like the one shown from Shoup) are a good choice. |
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JD planter closing wheel brackets
