| 4020 roll bar and canopy|
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|Who makes a roll bar and hard top canopy for a JD 4020 tractor? Found an outfit in Michigan called Saginaw County Tractor that does for $1200. Any other options? |
Edited by Rolling Prairie 1/15/2013 17:23
|Deere had a program to retrofit the older tractors at reduced cost. I would check with your dealer.|
|I got the roll bar from Deere and the canopy from the outfit in MI. Should have just got the whole thing from them. Great product.|
|I don't think they still offer that program but it wouldn't hurt to check with a dealer. I bought a roll bar for my 4020 back in the '80s thru deere using that program. The roll bar was 1/2 price but the canopy wasn't part of the program & cost list price.|
|Try to find an original one, they are out there. We had one, sold it 10 years ago. I forget the price, maybe $500.|
North Eastern Maryland
|I don't think that the roll bar from Saginaw is a real ROPS. |
I thought that they advertised it as a canopy and not a ROPS. Deere hase a steel bar inside of the tapered upright for extra stregnth.
Are you buying it for protection from roll over or protection from the sun?
|The one from deere is solid. |
I guess I should clarify that. Solid being a metaphor for very strong, not literally a solid piece of steel. Dad's 4020 rolled over down a lake dam into the lake. The only thing we could see was the corner of the ROPS. We attached a chain to the ROPS and *DRUG* the tractor out of the lake by the ROPS. The ROPS was the only large piece of steel on that machine that was not bent, dented, sprung, or otherwise damaged. It was even the model that hinged in the middle. I would think if any would be weak enough to bend or break it would be that one.
|This is what the John Deere rollbar (ROPS) looks like after the first time you use it. |
They have mounting holes on the top for a canopy, but I've never bought one.
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West Union IA
I put the same one on my 4020 also, can't really tell any difference.
|I have one of Saginaws roll bar & canopy on a 806. It is very well made. Salesman told me the reason they don't sell them as a ROPS is liability issues. He claimed to sell them as a ROPS they would have to be certified, which is cost prohibitive and would drive the price up several xs what they are now.|
|Even though it's strong enough to handle a rollover, I still recommend against it.|
|The canopy support they build is probably as strong as the original JD ROPS, but they don't want the cost of testing and liability insurance in it. Nobody would probably buy it if it cost twice as much. Similar situation when I was restoring some old JD's years ago. You could buy a new reproduction "water tank" for a JD D or GP, and you were not supposed to ever put gas in it. I'm sure no one ever did.|
|Deere does still sell the rops for cost. Looked into it a year or so ago.|
northwest IL Lee Co
|Put one on my 4240 a couple of years ago from JD, $800. We put it on.|
|Also had a 4020 go off in the creek several years ago. It had a JD retrofit roll bar which we had added a home made canopy onto. Driver left over the up-side tire before it went in on it's side! Anyway, we attached a chain to the top of the roll bar and were able to right the tractor with the off-side tire just sitting in midair. Then we had to figure out how to pull it forward to get it up on level ground. It worked out pretty good, just got a front wheel caught in a hole and bent one side. Worst thing was it managed to find enough water in the nearly dry creek to suck up some and bend a rod.|
Shaftsbury, Vermont (SW VT)
|I posted this a while back, but "here" there is a program where extension will rebate you part of the cost of installing a rollbar on an older tractor, just for safety reasons. Program is called "Rebates for Rollbars" and is a co-operative program between Vermont, New York, and Pennsylvania. The program in my state is funded through the University of Vermont, and reimbursed me 70% of the cost. I bought the kit for my 2030 from a dealer (my employer), and Deere does sell them pretty much at cost. If you have a dealer install it, the 70% applies to the whole job, with I think, a cap of $700 for your rebate. A canopy would not be part of this program, but the kit does include a seatbelt kit. |
I installed the rollbar myself at the shop, after work. I had to make a bracket under the seat to get the seatbelt attachment point out where it could swivel.
It would be worth contacting your extension agent or going online to see if your state has a similar program.
Edited by Oliver 1/16/2013 14:56
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|How did your ROPS fare in your rollover? |
We got lucky on the engine side of things.
Dad was mowing the lake dam. Got a little too far down on the sidehill, and with the weight of the mower cutterbar below him, could not get enough traction to back up. He parked the tractor, and was walking back to the shed to get another to pull it back up the hill, when it started to slide in. So, at least it went in with no one on the seat and the engine shutdown. There's no good way to dunk a tractor, but this way has to be the "least bad".
We drained engine and trans, turned the engine over by hand with a prybar on the flywheel teeth (water will squeeze around the piston rings if you go slowly enough), filled the engine and trans with new oil, hooked the batteries back up, and she cranked straight away. I think we had that engine running within 2 hours of it's "bath". The number one cylinder leaks an oily film around it's gasket at the exhaust manifold. I'm not certain, but I think the cold water might have pissed off that exhaust valve that day. Other than that, the damage was limited to a radiator, sheet metal (hoods are expensive), precleaner, and muffler. Before it was done, had to change the transmission oil twice to get it to stop turning that milky color it does when it's wet.
Edited by KinzeMech 1/16/2013 18:13
|I think I paid $375 from Deere about ten years ago for ROPS only. |
Its the rigid one, and its heavy. I rigged a hoist from the rafters to lift it into place. Then couldn't get the bolts to go in the threaded holes in the plates. Seems they drilled and tapped the holes, then didn't protect the threads while welding the plates to the tubes and so the threads had weld splatter anchored even better by the paint. You may save much effort and cursing by running a tap, probably still 3/4-16 through those holes so the bolts will go in.
|Roll bar was fine, stood up to the pulling it upright just fine too. |
Friday afternoon, teenage driver pulling silage wagons. The field road turns as it goes down into creekbed from that side. I think he realized he was a little hot, hit the brakes enough to leave skid marks, and then bailed as the tractor was going over. Didn't even skin his knees on the concrete! Forage wagon didn't follow it into the creek somehow. I believe they had it back up on the road before I even arrived because I can't remember anything about fixing it.
The tractor slid off the side of a concreted crossing, so it was laying on it's side in the small puddle of water on the lower side of the crossing. Just deep enough to suck it into the intake. Blew the head gasket and bent one connecting rod.
The sleeves still had crosshatching from the last rebuild, so we just put in another rod using the same bearing even, set of rings on that piston, new head gasket, changed the oil and it's been running just fine.
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