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Middle Tennessee | Years ago in farm show I saw an air assisted clutch do any of you have one and is it store bought or home engineering. Need to be able to adapt a clutch for a guy with bad knees. Hydro would be a good idea but instead need to be able to retrofit to a different tractor. Any information will be apprecited.
Toby |
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Hagen Brothers farms,Goodrich ND | How about the hydraulic clutch booster cyllinders that were stock on IH tractors. Their small enough to mount inline in the linkage on almost anything and relieve about 90% of the effort needed to push the clutch. I had one on my 3788. |
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| I don't know what type of tractor you working with, but about 10 years ago Dad had a tractor that had a clutch pedal that had 2 springs (mounted under the dash) that created most of the pressure you felt when you depressed the clutch. One afternoon (one) spring broke...it made the clutch pedal as light as a feather. I doubt your situation is the same, but it might be as easy as putting in lighter springs on the pedal (or just breaking one). |
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| Can you tell me more?? Our 2950 deere is really tough to push and on a loader to boot. How would I go about adapting??? Its hydrulic activated. Master and slave. |
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Callao Missouri | My advice is not to spend any time and money engineering a pile of crap. If the customer is serious about this problem have him trade on a 5000, or 7000 series Case IH, or a 6000, or 7000 series Deere. Find something with a partial power shift and a directional reverser that uses hydraulic oil to change direction or stop instead of a clutch and shift collar. On a tractor like this all you are doing if you even use the clutch pedal at all is move a valve, after the initial getting used to the machine you will never use the left pedal at all except for delicate maneuvers.
You say that is expensive, well how much did the knee replacement that your buddy is going to have or has had going to cost? ( presuming that is what is going on ) Jon |
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Hagen Brothers farms,Goodrich ND | The clutch on that old 3788 2+2 was a real bear to push with the engine off and booster not working, I would guestimate 60-75 pounds clutch pedal effort.
With the engine running and the booster working it took between 5-10 pounds pedal pressure to activate the built in control valve in the booster cylinder. I am sure this could be adjusted down to near 0 pedal pressure just by putting a lighter spring in the control valve.
I always thought that it was a really neat little widget, and not much larger than a small car type shock absorber.
Edited by Jon Hagen 6/12/2007 00:25
 (IH clutch booster cyl.jpg)
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 IH clutch booster cyl.jpg (31KB - 208 downloads)
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McLeod County Minnesota | I totally agree with Jon. Buy a tractor that doesn’t require the driver to use the clutch except for intricate work. I have a Case 8920 that we use for planting. The days I ran it I didn’t use the clutch for anything besides squeezing into tight spots in the building or hooking up. I didn’t use the clutch in the field. In fact, they don’t call it a clutch. It is an inching pedal. |
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Germany | Provided the tractor justifies the expensions, this might be worth a thought:
http://www.fte.de/oe_kupplungssysteme_druckverstaerker_en.FTE?Activ... |
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Fruita CO | Assuming he can't trade tractors, find an old 5020 Deere & look at the mousetrap on the clutch pedal. It's a spring assist that comes over center when you push the pedal, it must help 'cause it's almost impossible to push the pedal when it's not working right...shouldn't be too hard to engineer something like it. It's similar in principle to the old Harley clutch mousetrap, if you've seen them...
Ron in CO... |
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clutch for bad knee
