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West Central Wisconsin | I planted our 4020 loader tractor this afternoon and after failing to pull it out with a chain, (some ground is still frozen), came back with the two inch rope and clevises. The very end of the drawbar was sunk in the semi-frozen ground so I attached the twist clevis further ahead on the drawbar. My brother took a running start with the 4230 and the twist clevis opened up sending it flying towards the back of the 4230 ending up on top of the cab with clevis still attached. We definately dodge the bullet, so to speak, this time and I have decided to scrap the rest of the twisted clevises we have on the farm for the standard u-shaped type. Joe
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| The - running start - may have something to do with it |
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East Central MN | The only kind to use for doing what you did is the style that has a threaded pin. |
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Sumner County Kansas "The Wheat Capital" | MJ is right any clevis will spread, especially with a rope. Threaded bolt type is the only way to go. |
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MI | The use of a clevis was the problem, not the fact you used a twisted one. A shackel is the proper tool |
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algona iowa | Use a rope or strap use a clevis with a threaded pin . |
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Martinsville, Ohio | Be careful with chains and straps, too. The end came of on a friend and took the top of his forehead off. He survived but disfigured for life. I have had chains come close to getting me too.
Ed |
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West Central Wisconsin | Please explain the use of a shackle. I had a threaded clevis on the end of the drawbar but it was buried in the mud with a chain on it and also a threaded one on the 4230. Joe
Edited by JoBob 3/27/2011 19:59
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Brazilton KS | Don't see how that could happen unless the nut fell off or the pin broke. Either way, it has nothing to do with whether it was twisted or straight. |
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Near-north Ontario, French River | I'm guessing they just used a drawpin in the clevis instead of a bolt with nut. Either the keeper pin in the clevis broke/pulled through the clevis or there was no keeper in the draw pin , the clevis opened up until the pin came out and ziiiiiiiiing away it went. |
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West Central Wisconsin | Like Thud said. Joe |
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Mid-Missouri | Yes, need threaded pin in that clevis. Nothing wrong with a soft moving start, given the proper setup.
I prefer to put the rope through an old tire in the mid-section so if something happens, it is less likely to become a projectile. |
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Brazilton KS | That would be my guess, also.,...if so, that is definitely not a problem with the hardware, it is a problem with failing to do stuff right. Could have killed someone, too. |
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Brazilton KS | What is the difference whether it is a threaded shackle, or a pin with a nut? Either should be equally strong. |
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E.Central MN | You were multiplying the load on that clevis quite a bit by doing the running start. Something has to give so you're just asking for trouble by doing it that way. Some guys hook a tire in between to absorb some of the shock load. It helps to hook up short to try and pull up hill a little rather than pulling on a tractor anchored solidly in the ground. Be careful. |
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68340 | He was looking back when the clevis came and hit him square in the face. He lived, but his face is a bit altered, should we say. Do you think this might have made him a bit smarter? Nope. |
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algona iowa | Mark It is only my personal preference to use a heavy duty threaded shackle's over a bolt and clevis. I also have employes that are going to be useing these things and I don't want them to use something that could fail and some one get hurt. |
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S.E. IL | I had a chain break a few years ago and come inside the 4440 with me. Not pretty!
Lucky nothing was broken. Had dings in my sunglasses where the broken glass hit my face and pefect pattern of log chain on my right arm.
Next day the inside of my right arm was black and green from where it was hooked around the back of the seat.
You won't catch me pulling with anything but cables and screw pin shackles now.
I would of bet that I got my head turned before it hit until I found the dings in my sunglasses..
Point is it happens faster than you can react.
Everyone be careful and have a safe 2011 planting season.
Glenn |
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S.E. Sask. | The only time I will use a "running start" to pull a stuck machine is with a good stretchy tow rope. There is no shock loading that way as with a chain. Even then I will keep it slow. |
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Seaford, Delaware | Lost a friend and customer 9 years ago when he was operating a tow truck pulling out one of their fuel delivery trucks. Cable broke and clevis came back and hit him in the face and killed him. Be careful out there!
Alan
L. Marvin Chance Sr., 49
FEDERALSBURG, Md. - L. Marvin Chance Sr. of Federalsburg died Tuesday, Oct. 15, 2002, in University of Maryland Medical Hospital, Baltimore. He was 49.
Mr. Chance was born Aug. 16, 1953, in Easton, son of Betty Willey Chance of Federalsburg and the late Charles Edward "Hot Dog" Chance.
He was a graduate of Col. Richardson High School in 1971.
Mr. Chance was director of fleet maintenance for Tri-Gas & Oil Co. and had worked for the company for 33 years.
He loved to hunt and fish. He loved NASCAR racing and his favorite driver was Dale Earnhardt Jr.
Mr. Chance was a member of Federalsburg Veterans of Foreign Wars Post 5246.
In addition to his mother, he is survived by his wife, Valerie D. Breuil Chance; three sons and three daughters-in-law, L. Marvin Chance Jr. and Kelley Chance of Stafford, Va., John E. and Cynthia Chance of Owings Mills and David W. and Diana Chance of Beaufort, S.C.; six grandchildren, Jacob C. Chance, Kelcy R. Chance, A. Brennen Chance, Cameron V. Chance, Lilian P. Chance and Chase A. Chance; a sister, Della M. Sinclair of Preston; three brothers, Ernie R. Chance of Hurlock, Edward L. Chance of Moss Point, Miss., and Vernon D. Chance of Denton; and many nieces and nephews.
Services will be 11 a.m. Saturday in Union United Methodist Church, Federalsburg, where friends may call 11/2 hours earlier. Dr. David Charles Salmons of New Bern (N.C.) Church of God will officiate.
Interment will follow in Hillcrest Cemetery, Federalsburg.
The family suggests memorial contributions to the Shock/Trauma Unit, UMMS, 29 S. Greene St., Baltimore, MD 21201.
Arrangements by Framptom-Hawkins-Eskow Funeral Home PA, Federalsburg. |
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MI | An amazing amount of stretch. Don't think it won't come back and get you if it breaks. The use of proper equipment is what will keep it safe. Making sure the load is not greater than the strength of the equipment used |
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Eastern Half of Kansas | I thought the same thing when I first saw it but didn't comment. Ditto what you said. Clevis wasn't the issue, its just whats getting blamed. |
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Strasburg North Dakota | The problem was with the hardware. It was not just the twisted clevis it was the fact that a clevis was used that just had a pin in it with a haipin to keep it in If the clevis decides to open that hairpin means nothing. Only use THREADED clevises when using a rope and make sure it is a big one . I had a clevis open up on me and it had a hairpin on the bottom of the pin. nothing bad happened but scared the hell out of me.
Edited by CaseIH2388 3/27/2011 23:53
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Pontiac, IL. | The proper term for a clevis with a threaded bolt is a "Shackle". The problem with using a bolt and nut through a clevis, is the bolt is probably still the weakest point. I agree it is a LOT safer than a pin and hairpin, but ALL the shackles that I have seen, the threaded bolt is Oversized, Making sure that the pin never fails. |
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Somerville, Indiana | Its the running start in my opinion...There is absolutely no reason for that to ever be necessary...Use your head for something besides catching the clevis...There are better safer ways...Never jerk on a machine of any kind...Auto matical pink slip here.
The open pinned clevis is another big mistake to never again happen, we used that sized clevis on the Ms with they were stuck...Use a proper shakle or clevis with a pin that matches the hole in the drawbar...I hope this gets thru at least one person's head, no matter who gets their feelings hurt.
Edited by dave morgan 3/27/2011 23:26
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| Thank you for posting JoBob. If this discussion saves someones life it was sure worth it. I'm guessing we have all made some mistakes when pulling something out and lived to tell about it. Glad you are all okay. I just got through explaining to the wife what a twisted clevis is. I think I should invest in a shackle and my wife thinks its a good idea too. |
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Sask | What you want is an anchor shackle.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#anchor-shackles/=bmgp39
A good shackle will have it's load rating in tons forged onto the hoop. Don't buy one without it. The listed size is the diameter of the hoop, not the pin which is larger. They come in carbon steel, stronger alloy steel and weaker stainless steel. The screw pin type is handy and safe for farm towing, and you can wire the pin if it's for long term use. Breaking strength is 6 times working load limit, and I've seen a 1" carbon steel shackle make a Steiger Panther spin on dry ground while it was pulling a 4" gas line under a road. |
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SW Ontario | I have one of those in the shop from trying to pull a little tree out or something. Looked back and said, 'you idiot'..... |
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Huntley Montana | Here I perfer Chain. Grade 70, 3/8" Use a quick hitch on the pulling tractor, hook botth ends close to something solid, lift as much as possible, FIRST gear @ idle to start, if it kills the engine, then just enough throttle to slip the tires. seldom need much more.
All but 3 of my tractors have PS, & only 1 of the non PS's will get used for pulling. |
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| With the running start, you might need a torch to unhook the screw pin shackle. Crosby has some good 1 1/8" - 1 1/2" shackles.
http://www.thecrosbygroup.com/html/default.htm
For heavy lifts, 2160's, MPI tested before use.
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ecmn | on a threaded shackle you dont screw the pin in tight, back it off a 1/2 turn from tight, that way it comes loose.
use threaded shackles with tie wire on them or threaded pins with nuts and a safety clip in them. if both are rated for the load either is safe.
most shackles (clevis in farm terms) will have a rating on them. I know that if we got a loaded semi stuck next to the crane and i use a couple 20 ton shackles we can lift the trailer and swing it out of the mud and set it on the road safely. if i use a couple shackles that "look good enough" someone can die or we bought a company a new trailer. |
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Southwest ND | OK guys, how big of shackle do you need between two 4-wheel drive tractors with a 105,000 lb rated tow strap. Was at Mac's hardware last week and they had big ones(probably 1 1/2" threaded pin). Looked very heavy but walked on by it when I seen "made in China". How many ton rating do I need? TIA |
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Brazilton KS | I hear you there. I've not yet figured out how to foolproof that kind of stuff, and it's especially difficult because I myself will sometimes do things which aren't right...but I don't want them doing it. |
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Brazilton KS | A 30t shackle with a bolt and nut is just as strong as a 30t shackle with a screw pin. The only reason to prefer one over the other is if there is a reason you do or do not want the pin to be able to turn. The pin diameter should be the same either way. Screw pins are generally used for things which have to be taken apart frequently, while bolt type is more likely to be found in a permanent installation. |
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MI | I believe he is talking about using a bolt in a clevis, not a threaded pin and nut designed for the shackel it is used in. |
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West Central Wisconsin | Thanks for all the replies on this subject. There was alot of useful information brought up and some constructive criticism, (which I can handle). My intent was like the title says, "Be careful using a twist clevis", plain and simple. I learned a valuable lesson and luckily noone was hurt. Did I ever imagine that clevis would open up under load, NO! It did, however, and I accept that. As JDpastor mentioned if it prevents someone else from getting hurt it was well worth my embarrasment. To clear up a few things, by rope I mean 2 inch tow rope made for pulling stuck vehicles. They are meant to stretch relying on momentum to sling shot the stuck vehicle out. The pull tractor was on semi frozen ground, would not dig, thereby makeing the first attempt with a short chain impossible. The tow rope was attatched to the pull tractor using a threaded clevis, or as I learned here the correct name is threaded shackle. The stuck tractor also had the same shackle with the chain still attached although by this time it was buried in the ground. This is when I should have gotten a shovel and dug down to access it. Instead I dropped a draw pin through the twist clevis further ahead on the draw bar. This is where I did wrong. I did not use a hairpin key and I don't think it would have made any difference. Using the forward momentum of the pull tractor with the tow rope obviously was too much for the draw pinned twist clevis. I am not blaming the equipment, I blame myself. I picked up some larger threaded shackles this morning and will never use a clevis with a drawpin again. If someone else can learn from my errors I have done what I set out to do by posting this thread. Joe |
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Sask | Check out the charts at either of the two sites linked above. The pin is larger than the listed diameter, so a 1 1/2" shackle has a 1 5/8" pin and won't fit in a 1 1/2" drawbar hole. |
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Brazilton KS | What is the difference? Looks like a bolt with about two threads removed so it can be struck with a hammer to knock it out, and a hole for a safety pin to me. They usually even have grade markings on them. |
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| Thanks again JoBob. A sucessful business man was once asked how he became so sucessful. He replied, "good decisions." He was then asked how he learned to make so many good decisions. He said, "experience." He was then asked how he got his experience. He firmly stated, "bad decisions!"
I admire those who admit their mistakes and learn from them a lot more than those who try to make it look like they have never made any. Realizing how short we have all come is what drives us to the Savior. |
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Omaha | Not surprising that you sprung the twisted clevis.....a straight clevis will do the same thing. You need to use an alloy Screw Pin Shackle designed for this application. We sell tow ropes and recommend screw pin shackles when pulling or towing. They provide a positive lock to prevent the pin from coming out like your picture. You will certainly need to match the rope and shackle to the job....you don't want the rope to break either!
Let me know if you have any questions. |
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algona iowa | We use these shackles we have only bent one still came apart I would rather cut the pin than have it hit some one. |
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MI | For instance, the pic provided by the original poster shows a clevis that looks to be about a 3/4" thick with oversize 3/4" holes for a 3/4" pin. A look at Crosby's site will show you a larger pin dia. compaired to the shackels' dia. If you look at the original posters pic, one of two things most likely happened. Either the pin fell partially out(out of one side), or, the pin bent which allowed the clevis to expand out until it it slipped off the pin. |
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| Thanks for this thread . I make some of the mistakes . listed here. like using a hair pin. ( won't anymore)
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Be careful using a twist clevis.
