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Electric fence wire question
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Fenceman
Posted 5/8/2007 08:20 (#147776 - in reply to #147703)
Subject: RE: Electric fence wire question


NE
Jim ,
I also agree with the hi tensile wire usage. Its by far the cheapest and least problematic of all your wire options. If you're talking about approx. 240 rods of fence or close to 4000' you'll only have $80 /wire invested . Use the 12 1/2 gauge class III galv with a min of 1750- 1850 # breaking strength and you'll be fine for many years. Couple of areas to take note......IF you have deer population ? Try to stay lower than top barb wire and inside of exsisting fence 8-12" if possible will really help with deer jumping fence and tangling the barb fence with your hot wire. If you're running cow/calf pairs I'd be inclined to run two wires and be done with it, also having the capability of shutting off the bottom wire if not needed some of the time ?
As regards to the lane fence...If its just a travelling lane to a water source, its probably not a problem. If you are crowding them thru this lane for other purposes, you will most likely get some cattle pretty excited when they get shoved in to it by accident making them hard to handle. 16' isnt very wide so you may have to keep it closer to fence than you would normally like . Another idea is you could always put a cut-out switch in the lane to make it easy to disconnect the juice when you concerned about it ?
I'm not a huge fan of steel posts with elec fence ( altho it is cost effective option) I prefer to eliminate as many potential problems day 1 that I can . When you have a insulator break or become unhooked ,usually you'll have a short in the fence because its grounded against the steel post. The best solution in my mind is using plastic posts that can have the wire stapled directly to the posts with no insulators required and also with the hi tensile strainers (tightners) you can tighten the fence much tighter than using steel posts because in your dips in your terrain the pull upwards can cause you some grief also unhooking the steel post insulators . Even if you have some small used wood posts, I'd use them every 60 -100'(depending on terrain) with staple on insulators and still be able to tighten fence really well elimainating loose fence problems. All kinds of posts will work, some just require more upkeep than others, I prefer to do it once better than all year long ?
One other suggestion ..if you have a area where tree limbs, creek crossings, or potential problem spots in the fence line......put yourself in a cut out switch half way in fence or in that area that you figure could give troubles...it will save you many times over trying to find shorts in fence quickly when you are already late for work ? Lastly , pick yourself up a good fence tester..then you'll know how well fence is working for sure and also indicate where your problem is at if you have one ...well worth the $. Mine is always in 4 wheeler glove box, use it about everyday during summer ,you'll soon learn what it should read when working properly and know instantly if you need to check fence anymore . Good luck with your project.
Fenceman
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