AgTalk Home
AgTalk Home
Search Forums | Classifieds (159) | Skins | Language
You are logged in as a guest. ( logon | register )

Question on 4430 clutch and pressure
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
View previous thread :: View next thread
   Forums List -> Machinery TalkMessage format
 
johndeere1
Posted 1/25/2011 22:19 (#1573008)
Subject: Question on 4430 clutch and pressure


Central Saskatchewan Canada
4430 clutch slips bad. in C4 and stepping on the brakes i can let the clutch out and the engine doesn't load down vwey much.

I have 180 psi of clutch pressure, so does this mean split the tractor and replace clutch? or should i check something else before i do this?

thanks for your opinion.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
JDTECH
Posted 1/25/2011 22:41 (#1573098 - in reply to #1573008)
Subject: Re: Question on 4430 clutch and pressure


NEMO
Does it slip in 2, 4 and R2? Sounds like the 2sp is slipping. Need to install pressure gauge and check clutch pressure and lube pressure. A pressure drop when shifting to 2,4 or R2 would indicate a 2sp problem. There could be a problem with a piston packing in the 2sp or the tube on the right side of the 2sp may have blown out. If the pressure remains steady when shifting from 1-2, 3-4, R1-R2, and it still slips only when in 2, 4, or R2, then the clutch disks in the 2sp are probably shot. If it slips in all gears, then the Perma-clutch is most likely in need of repair. Possibly blown piston seal or clutch facing gone. Good luck.

Edited by JDTECH 1/25/2011 22:46
Top of the page Bottom of the page
johndeere1
Posted 1/25/2011 22:58 (#1573153 - in reply to #1573098)
Subject: Re: Question on 4430 clutch and pressure


Central Saskatchewan Canada
The tractor slips in every gear and range. I didn't check the lube pressure but the clutch pressure didn't fluctuate more than 5-10 psi when engaging the pto and shifting 2 hi low.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
JDTECH
Posted 1/25/2011 23:41 (#1573257 - in reply to #1573153)
Subject: Re: Question on 4430 clutch and pressure


NEMO
Probably be a good idea to check lube pressure as well, but it sounds like the perma-clutch disks are shot. Did this tractor get run out of hygard or lose all hydraulics recently? Will it pull itsself at all? Good luck.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
johndeere1
Posted 1/26/2011 00:05 (#1573298 - in reply to #1573257)
Subject: Re: Question on 4430 clutch and pressure


Central Saskatchewan Canada
Hydraulics have been good and always had oil in it. It has a loader on it and goes back and forth all day long. It will move in all gears until you put a load on it or press the brakes. It was our main tractor for the feedlot and cows. Bought a 7800 to take its place. Talk about moving up in the world.

edit- what should the lube pressure be? got a tech maual on order but its taking a while to get here.

Edited by johndeere1 1/26/2011 00:06
Top of the page Bottom of the page
TD15
Posted 1/26/2011 00:15 (#1573313 - in reply to #1573298)
Subject: Re: Question on 4430 clutch and pressure


Water in the trans oil will eventually cause the clutch facing material to separate off the clutch disks.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
JDTECH
Posted 1/26/2011 08:31 (#1573546 - in reply to #1573298)
Subject: Re: Question on 4430 clutch and pressure


NEMO
Lube pressure will vary according to oil temp and engine speed. With the oil at operating temp, the lube would only be around 10 psi, IIRC. Not so much worried about what the psi is as if there is a modest fluctuation when engaging/disengaging different elements, ie, pto, diff lock, 2sp, clutch. Good luck.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
pirlbeck
Posted 1/26/2011 10:44 (#1573802 - in reply to #1573008)
Subject: RE: Question on 4430 clutch and pressure


West Central Iowa
The perma clutch is designed so that when disks wear to a certain point, operating levers ( fingers) bottom on clutch cover causing severe slippage. Early 30 series did not have enough travel in fingers before the levers bottomed on the cover, causing clutch slippage before disks were worn very much at all. Deere has a service bulletin on this from back in the mid 70's. To check for this, when clutch adjusting tool is set up on clutch, with adjusting nuts backed way off you need at least .200 lever travel before they bottom out on the cover. I always use a 1/4" bolt between tip of lever and adjusting tool ring to check for clearance. If not enough clearance, grind top of cover where finger is contacting it with a die grinder until you have enough off so bolt will go in. We check this on every clutch we do as it only takes a minute to do.

Also, if this is an early tractor with manual by-pass valve, and the valve is left open, it will rob the lube oil circuit and shorten clutch life.

I hope this makes sense, if not let me know.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
pirlbeck
Posted 1/26/2011 13:10 (#1574010 - in reply to #1573802)
Subject: RE: More info on manual by-pass valve


West Central Iowa
This is a reply i typed up to an email I received this morning. I thought I just as well post it here as it may help someone else.



Early S/N (prior to S/N 44904 for 4430) 30 series QR & SR tractors had a manual by-pass valve that could be opened to allow a single acting cylinder down. By opening this valve return oil was dumped back to sump instead of staying in the charge circuit. Later S/N tractors used a directional control valve built into the RH SCV/rockshaft valve sandwich plate that automatically returned the oil to sump when using a single acting cylinder and no longer had this manual by-pass valve. The manual by-pass valve was most commonly used for wagon hoist cylinder and corn planters (in this area) as they did not have enough weight to over come system charge pressure to allow the oil to return to the sump.

This valve sits in the valve body directly behind the hyd oil filter. It screws in from the bottom and can be identified by a long hex cap sticking down. If you remove the hex cap there is a large screw driver slot in the valve stem. It should be screw in (up) until it is seated. The owners manual should have some info on this if you have an early owners manual. I have been advising my customers for years to just leave it closed and it they have a wagon or something that only sees occasional use to just shut the tractor off to leave it down. JD did offer a kit years ago to upgrade the early tractor to the late design.

Pat


Top of the page Bottom of the page
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
Jump to forum :
Search this forum
Printer friendly version
E-mail a link to this thread

(Delete cookies)