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| I have seen many questions on many forums about this issue. Just a thought. Maybe it will help. Ok here goes. You've gotten fuel to the pump. Good to that point. Rule number 1. Check the fuel filters. Are they full? Are they old? Are they clogged? Not certain. Cheapest place to start. And to be certain. Remove and replace them!! Make sure you have no leaks in the fuel lines from the tanks to the inlet of the primary fuel filter and follow the supply line to the inlet of the fuel pump. Any fuel leak also means suction of air. Not good. Suggesting system is sound to the fuel pump inlet and fuel is present to this point. The fuel system can be primed by utilizing the outlet hose from the fuel pump to the cylinder head and without using ether, and sometimes lots of it. The main thing is you need a tank of some sort to put fresh fuel in { about 2 gallons } and be able to pressurize it with air { about 35 - 45 psi. is suficient } but be able to shut it off before the fuel runs out in the pressure tank. I made mine out of and air tank. I have about $150 in it. On a detroit 60 series without a compu check fitting, simply connect the fuel supply hose from the outlet of the fuel pump leading to the cylinder head to the priming can and open the valve of the pressure can and you'll hear the fuel flowing into the tanks. Therefore priming the system. Note: remove fuel tank caps when priming the fuel sytem. If the breathers are plugged the tanks will build pressure. On a detroit 60 series with a compu check fitting on the fuel pump, the system can be primed simply by connecting to the supplied fitting. The only difference is that you will need to crank the engine until the engine starts which is usually seconds. It works very well. If you do not have a compucheck fitting, well you have a two options. 1 You need to locate a female compu check fitting to plug onto the supplied fitting or simply remove the fitting and get a fitting to work and simply reinstall the compucheck after priming is complete or 2. Remove the fuel outlet line { supply to the cylinder head } and connect the pressure tank to the supply line , prime the system and reinstall the fitting/line to the pump. Remember: It is notable that you may want to remove the fuel tank caps to do this. If a breather is plugged it will pressurize the fuel tank[s]. Usually the truck will start within a few seconds. Very few times have i ever had to repeat the priming procedure twice.
This seems like alot. It really is not. The nice thing I have found is that if you experience fuel in the oil, loss of prime issues, a good working fuel pressure tank is invaluable. The fuel system can be pressure tested by connecting the tank in the same manner as priming, with the exception of the compucheck fitting due to the fuel pump design. Then simply prime the system if not already done. Remove the return line from the back or side on newer engines, plug off the return line at the head outlet fitting leading to the tank and simply pressurize the system with fuel from the pressure tank. If you have a gauge on it [ the tank ], you can monitor it to see if the pressure drops, thereby pressure testing the cylinder head, fuel injectors, and injector cups. If you have fuel in the oil and pressure drops, and have no external leaks, remove the valve cover and visually look around the injectors. Leaking seals / o-rings will most likely be visible from fuel bubbling up around the leak source { injector body }. Another is the solenoid body, fuel can leak out the bottom of the solenoid due to broken screws. Both of these are very easy to locate [ most of the time ]. If you do not visually see the leak , pressure drops and there is definitive proof that fuel is in the oil, you can locate it 2 more possible ways. Most likely there is an issue with a fuel inector. Now !. The return line is reconnected and empty the fuel gallery of fuel. You can do this by simply emptying the fuel pressure tank of fuel and allowing the air pressure to clear out the fuel gallery. You can remove the fuel injectors and visually inspect for damages, look through the fuel injector cup hole to the piston. If you see excessive amounts of fuel on the piston, chances are that is a suspect injector. Take each injector and a connect a piece of hose over the nozzle [ tip ] connected to shop air. Place the injector in a bucket and check for air bubbles. Any bubbles present verifies leaking injector. The second way would require removing the oil pan and pressurizing the fuel system and looking up into the cylinders for fuel running down the walls. I prefer Step 1. because you most likely will be removing a faulty injector anyhow. therefore most of the time saving the oil pan removal. Of course always change the oil and filters. Dropping the pan is not neccesarily a bad idea. It allows you to inspect the main and rod bearings for damage. Also the cam bearings. Don't forget to inspect them either. Of course this all depends on how long the issue occurred and progressive damage as a result.
Fuel injector cups leaking usually appear as fuel in coolant and or coolant in fuel. Pressurizing the fuel system would show bubbles in the coolant surge tank if this were the case.
Air in the fuel system can easily be detected by simply looking into the fuel tank[s] for air bubbles inthe return line.
Fuel filter bases crack and leak air and sometimes not fuel. The see through filters can have the o-rings get pinched from improper istallation. Or not be there at all. Don't forget to think, did the fuel system just get worked on or recently and now the issue is present. have someone recheck previous work. Stupid mistakes are easy to make.
A loss of prime can come from any of the above, and also the return line check valve, and also the fuel pump itself. So don't forget about the fuel pump. It has to stop supply fuel from returning to the tanks as well. It can lose prime but still run fine after primed and started. I just experienced this about 2 months ago on a truckers rig. 30 minutes after engine shutdown, loss of prime and no restart would occur. Dealership had a $2000.00 bill and no answers. After 3-4 hours looking and going through the steps above we determined all was well with the internal components. Replaced the fuel pump and waited for 1 hour. Problem solved. Happy trucker. Well i hope this helps even just one person. If it does it was worth it. If any one has any input for me that i may need correcting please email me. ALways like to hear of better ways. Just some tricks that i've used in the past 9 1/2 years that worked very well for me. | |
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60 series Detroit Diesel won't start
