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| Too many MB for my verizon account. I compute the yellow test leads include a 100 ohm load from yellow to black when the button is pushed. Yes it works. Why I advocate the simpler scheme of using a dome lamp for a test light, where the dome lamp would need about an amp at 12 volts, it represents a hot resistance of about 12 ohms, but a cold resistance of less than 1 ohm. It will show up resistive connections if the load is used with any voltmeter or used alone. Many digital voltmeters are very high input resistance some are 10 megohms, some are virtually open circuits when the reading settles drawing no current from the circuit being tested which is fine for low power electronics, but without a test load is useless for vehicular power circuits where corroded connections are a standard problem.
The beauty of the dome lamp that I advocate as a test light is that its cheap, and its self indicating. Connect it to the battery, it lights. Connect it to a load with a corroded connection and it will be dim or not light at all. Trace the circuit till you find the corroded connection and fix it.
No need to pay $98 for test leads with a built in load button.
For alternator and starter testing I have a contact meter with slots for 50 amps full scale or 500 amps full scale that is essentially a magnetized pointer where the slots align the magnet with the wire and show the magnitude and direction of the DC current. I've had that meter for several decades and it still works fine. Using a compass goes back to the earliest days of electricity when that showed a DC current makes a magnetic field. A new concept at the time.
Gerald J. | |
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Gerald J.
