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Wisconsin | If it's like the trucks around here, the various outlets and the pump will have their own drain valves and work quite well. The "auxiliary engine cooling" and pump cooling valves and circuits are required, a complete joke(1/4" plastic tube is not supplying much cooling), so I'd get a small guy in there and eliminate most of that sort of thing. Probably eliminate most of the valves and gauges also, just need two or three gauges at most, and those could be run high enough so they only see air if they're not already.
I doubt your son's engineering abilities if he says the pressure and flow are right for a pivot. Fire pumps are designed for a very specific purpose, to have a user friendly pump curve, that's not the sort of pump you'd want to run more than an emergency backup. And then you'd need the drive cooler if there is one, the engine cooling and pump cooling would still be irrelevant.
Ebay, or other auctions sometimes have nozzles. The common thread is NH, in 1.5" or 2.5", you may have 1.75, 2.5, or 3" discharge hose, but here you'd only have the two thread sizes. A straight stream nozzle will have just a valve and straight nozzle, then there are adjustable nozzles that can make a fan pattern to more straight, which is useful for rinsing a large area after blasting the dirt loose with the straight stream. Look into a deck gun, you might be able to rinse the whole facility from one parking place with no hoses involved. Don't have to use the nozzle on it, you can use a smaller nozzle to make the water last longer and get more cleaning per gallon.
edit: adapters are easy to find online, you may have to go from NH to NPT to camlock. I would only do that for the suction, not the pressure side. You can probably buy more pressure hoses for a few dollars each that are fine for your purposes, they fail testing regularly and come up on auctions here and there, or get thrown out.
Edited by junk fun 11/2/2025 21:10
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My new pressure washer....firetruck questions.
