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IL | Your problem is probably more electrodes than your machine, they don't like humidity. Might be polarity of your leads. 6010 or 5P are reverse polarity aka dc electrode positive. 7018 and other low hydrogen electrodes are ac unless it's a 4R then its dcep. Those are the only rods we use on the pipeline and in structural iron.
Settings for 7018 is really really easy, I don't know how so many people mess it up. Convert your electrode size from a fraction to a decimal and that's what you set the welder at, +-10% depending on position. 1/8 converts to .125 so set the machine at 125 amps. 6010 is just as easy if you can subtract. Subtract 1/32 from your electrode diameter, convert that to a fraction, round down to the closest number divisible by 5, and set your machine there +-5% depending on position. 1/8 - 1/32 = 3/32 which converts to .93 so set the machine to 90 amps.
Personal preference for me is to have dedicated machines for each process. I do a fair bit of welding for different people in a trade for labor. I've run a number of different machines in other people's shops. The multi process welders do many things mediocre compared to a single purpose machine (aside from a miller s-32 or Lincoln doubleheader for a cv655).
Auto set features on welders are a gimmick to get people who know nothing about welding to buy a more expensive machine. They're selling people hopes and dreams that they to can weld without learning the most basic thing about welding, HOW TO SET THE MACHINE! I've not yet come across one that welds even close to where it should be if set manually.
Practice on scrap metal out of the junk pile to fine tune your settings. Practice body position and electrode travel before ever striking the ark. Order a used/outdated Larry Jeffus "welding principles and applications" text book off Amazon. I used to teach out of the 7th edition and they're $40 on Amazon "used like new" condition. | |
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Upgrading from stick welder to multiprocess welder
