|
|
SW MN | Went to state my truck with the transplant TR85 combine 3208 engine. First would'nt start, would crank but not fire. checked fuel tank, electric lift pump working, then checked the electric fuel shut off syloind sounds like its working. Next pop 4 injectors loose, crank agin and pow starts ringht up on the other 4 cyl. Now problem is engine won't shut off, and runs at high idle, disconnected battery to shut off fuel syloind and still won't quit. it finnally dies on its own. Next tighten 4 injectors and start again runs wild, fuel linkage is loose and at Idle position. pinch fuel line to kill motor. Cleaned up and went home.
What's wrong? fuel rack stuck at high Idle?
Also bad fuel syloind? does sylonid control fuel rate input?
This has been a good running truck for 12 years, had it running 2 months ago and it was fine.
any Ideas?
Edited by Tazzerblue 9/19/2008 16:02
|
|
| |
|
Thumb of Michigan | The number 1 problem we've had with fuel systems on 3208's/1160's has been the solenoid. Easy to get at and fairly reasonable to replace. If you can rob one from a known working motor, should at least pinpoint the solenoid if thats the problem. Another thing to check is for leaky lines. I don't recall the symptom now, but we had a line rusting under one of the clamps on top of the motor. Wasn't always leaking fuel, but it did suck air when it wasn't leaking. |
|
| |
|
| On the combine its just an on/off thing. There should be a plug close to the selinoid. It needs to be wired so no power when key/kill switch/extra switch(whatever) is flipped. Should be no power to seloniod engine dies. The runnng at fast idle would be somebody elses category??? The bleeding the injector lines is common procedure for us on a tr86. Usually loosen 3 or 4 before it takes off. |
|
| |
|
| As far as the not shutting off, try unhooking the plug on the alternator. If it is a delco, the 2 wire plug going into the side. It will backfeed to the harness and keep the fuel solenoid turned on. Easy to fix with a diode available at Radio Shack.
As for the high idle, Need someone else for that.
INDY |
|
| |
|
NW Washington | Have you changed the fuel injection pump from a combine/tractor application to a truck? I suspect you need to chat with your local Cat engine shop or pump shop. I am pretty sure there are some differences in the pump/ governor set up for these two applications.
|
|
| |
|
Southeast Florida | You've got gummed up diesel fuel in the system. The selinod operates the rack in the pump and the governor is gummed up too. How long has it been setting? Another idea is the pump housing seeped down and it condensation inside and rusted together. |
|
| |
|
Mid Michigan | Pull off the fuel shut off solonoid and run it through a dry cycle with it out of the truck. It is pretty simple and it will go up and down when you turn the key on and off. Now look down into the top of the injection pump where it came out of and there is a little flapper that goes up and down and that is what shuts off the fuel. It can get really dirty and rusty in there and not allow the flapper to come back up like it should. I have shot pb blaster down in the opening and cleaned it out in there with a Qtip and it should start going up and down again. You can stick your finger in there and it will flip up and down. |
|
| |
|
SW MN | thanks I'll try that tomorrow.
Dealers shop $100.00hr. This Site Priceless!!!! |
|
| |
|
| Pat and Indiana got it right according to Websters but when I was trying to spell it earlier I couldn't even get it close enough to find it in Websters. All in fun---no judgement call on my part but that word (s-o-l-e-n-o-i-d) always gets me. Still doesn't look right but I'm not going to argue with Pat, Indiana and Webster!! (-;> |
|
| |
|
Iowa | The no-start problem is probably as davpal described with sticky shutoff housing linkage, but could also be gummed up interal linkages as Fla Veggie Farmer describes. Maybe a combination of both, too. The "runs at high idle" complaint could be gummed up internal parts, also. There are other possibilities inside the governor also that could cause it to run at high idle with the lever at low idle(externally) but I personnally haven't seen this complaint before on truck engines. If you buy some gaskets for the top of the fuel injection pump and clean that area REALLY, REALLY good, then remove the top plate of the pump,you could take a "turkey baster" and suck out the fuel from the fuel injection pump area, and spray some carburator cleaner in there and let it soak and lightly move the linkages back and forth easily. You could let the cleaner set there for 24 hours, then suck out the cleaner with the turkey baster, install a new top plate gasket(DON"T forget the relief spring under the top plate towards the front) and reassemble. Hand pump or use your electric lift pump to fill that fuel injection pump area before you try to start. Important: have a board or flat plate nearby to shutoff the air(cover the intake) if the engine revs too high. These will require two people(one has to ready to slam the board over the intake in a split-second to prevent engine damage if something is terribly wrong inside the fuel pump). This is common practice WHENEVER someone is into the fuel system! If you worried about this, call a qualified mechanic. I won't talk about the rear governor part; to easy to lose the over-fueling spring or crack the rear housing. I would like you to check and make sure that your fuel return line from the top,right of the fuel injection pump to the fuel tank is open and fuel can flow thru it. On some larger fuel systems, a plugged fuel return line can cause the rack to bind with excessive fuel pressure, BUT I have never seen type excessive pressure on a 3208 because only firetrucks run an electric fuel pump(booster pump) to assist the internal 3208 transfer pump.(in my experience) Another question: Do you have a regulator on your electric fuel "lift" pump? I assume it has been OK, if you have been run for 12 years. If your lucky, carb cleaner may do the trick. Do you feel lucky?
Edited by CATGUY 9/19/2008 22:35
|
|
| |
|
Iowa | Tazzerblue; I thought of one other area that you could put carb cleaner and let it soak. The governor area on these 3208 don't drain out well with the turkey baster. If your 3208 is a non-turbo, then you can remove a drain plug (9/16" socket) at the rear, lower portion of the governor. Then you will have to remove the timing pin plug (that is on top of the fuel setting cover) to provide a "vent" for that area. Once drained, reinstall drain plug and fill the governor area with carb cleaner thru that timing pin hole on top (use small funnel). These procedure will get carb cleaner into the governor area also. Hopefully, this will loosen things up in there without disassembly. After soaking, you will drain and pump in diesel fuel before starting. Note: these governor areas tend to trap air, If you have a hand pump, then pump up with fuel while the timing pin plug is off OR loose, tighten after you see fuel coming out(all air is removed). IF your 3208 is turbo'b, you may have to remove the intake manifold ( not very friendly) to do this procedure. NOTE: If you try any of these carb cleaner suggestions, you need to move linkages/throttle lever/shutoff lever around while cleaner is in those areas to allow cleaner to get into the problem areas. Using carb cleaner is a CAT procedure when they had problems with gummed up REMAN fuel injection pumps about 10 years ago. [Sitting in storage in the parts dept for too long, I assume.] |
|
| |
Need help Cat 3208 running away
