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N IL | What can you guys tell me about these? We would like to no-till all of our beans and this seems like it would be a good unit. From what we can tell the openers on the drill are the same as the 750's so we know it should work. But what about the cart? We are going to go look at so what should we look at? What wears on an air cart like this? How many feed rollers are on this, is there one for each run? Sorry for all the stupid question but we don't have these here.
Thank You.
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 jd787.jpg (67KB - 1008 downloads)
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North Western Alberta | Well, I have the 2320 Flexi-coil, which is pretty much the same one. These carts were just re-pianted Flexi-coil carts. They are excellent in my opinion. Not much to go wrong with them really. A shot of grease here and there, and the wobble arms will once every few seasons require some lube. The meter rollers are easy to change, and the book seems to be prett close in seedrates. I use the flexicoil density tester, that came with mine to fine adjust the seed rate.
I dont know about the 1850 seed tool, but the Flexi-coil 5000 is an excellent unit. |
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Findlay, Ohio | We had one. I can tell you the cart is excellant, the problem is the 1850 drill. John Deere had an update for the early ones and if your dealer didn't know it you probably didn't get it put on. The units were going to far down when in use and you will take the boots off in no time, we had one for ten years and just found it out, we were going through boots on less than a thousand acres, which is way too fast. I would stay away from an 1850 and try to find an 1860 or 1890. |
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| ive got an 1850 and heard all the horror stories about them, before i got it. i put the shoup closing arm/wheel conversion on it and its night and day difference between it and the oem setup. i also put on shoup extended wear boots and they have been over approx 4000 acres since the first of this year and still look new. i have heard of the rockshaft update that SFO mentioned above, but really dont know if mine has it or not. but i will say, i have no excesive wear on the boots as he is talking about. now my 1900 cart is a totally different story!!!! |
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Southeast North Dakota | Hi,
I own one of these drills. Mine has the tow-behind 787 cart but the metering is the same. The 1850 seed tool does a fine job of no-tilling soybeans into my corn stalks. I found it's better to leave the stalks stand rather than shred them. The reason for that is the more stalks standing the better your openers can penetrate and ALSO if it's a wetter spring you'll get more drying action with more dirt showing. There are two seed meters on the 787 cart, one for each compartment. I've found their accuracy to be top-notch, this drill has worked great for me.
I hope I helped. |
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Seaforth, Ontario | The cart is virtually trouble free. The one I bought was owned originally by a farmer that ran about 10000 acres for a number of years until he sold it to a friend of mine that runs about the same. He ran it for a quite a few years before I bought it. I put a scales on the cart this year and it makes it a lot nicer for accuracy. These carts and 1850 drills can be rebuilt to new. |
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NE SD | The 1850 drills were better drills than the 1860s that replaced them. The 1890 did fix all of the issues that the 1860 had but that is another story. We had two 1997 1850 drills that we drug over a pile of acres. One we bought new and the other one when it was 3 years old. Got rid of both of them in 2006. The Flexi-Coil carts like the 787 are top-notch. The only thing you need to watch with them is the plastic wear strip above the meter. I'd love to have one here for fert. application. The problem with these 1850 drills is that they are at the age where things are starting to wear bad enough you are looking at needing to modify/replace more than just the typical wear parts. Bushings and mounting holes are starting to get worn out on them and that is what you need to be looking for. The boot mounting holes are likely worn. The unit mounting bushings as well as the bushings for the packer and closing wheel arms are likely getting bad. The packer wheel arms are a PITA to remove after they are stuck. We ruined a 1/2" impact removing the bushings for the closing wheel arms with a homemade puller the last year we had ours. Lots of people claim to have had problems with the closing wheel bearings but we never did. When we rebuilt the drills we took them apart and re-used the bearings with new seals. I know that some neighbors had major problems with them but they were installing them with a hammer on the tailgate of their pickup. We did ours in the press. Maybe 2 or 3 per drill per year. |
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N IL | Thank you everyone for the help so far, all of you helped greatly. It is a 1997 so it is getting to the age where we know that we will have to re build whatever has to be rebuilt. Not a huge deal we're used to buying older equipment and rebuilding it.
Do the runs or hoses plug very often and if so what usally makes them plug?
Thanks |
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Findlay, Ohio | No, we didn't have any trouble plugging. |
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Brazilton KS | The flexi-coil cart works. It just works. I would not expect any plugging problems blowing soybeans. Ours would carry 00 lbs per acre of 66 lb/ft3 fertilizer at 10 mph if you wanted it too. If the cart has seen a lot of fertilizer it will require a lot of work. They like to corrode. |
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NE SD | No, we've never had a hose plug and the runs only plug occassionally. The reason the runs plug is because the blockage monitor sensors will catch a rock, or plywood, or some other crap that usually comes in from the fertilizer industry. We could have probably prevented some of that, but in order to have the hose on the auger long enough that it would stay in the tank it was resting on top of the screens which slowed down fill time way too much so we threw them in the scrap pile. One thing you may consider is trying to get the dealer to split the cost of putting new primary hoses on it. They are likely worn and replacing them is no small job especially price-wise. The manual states that you are supposed to turn them 1/4 turn every year. I wonder if the guy that said that has ever tried it. If they wanted it done than they should have put fittings on the end of the hoses that allowed a person to do so. For us they only lasted about 4 years before we needed new ones. |
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| heat them up with a propane torch a little on the end and they will turn easier |
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| The problem SFO describes is what was remedied by Deere's "drop kit" to lower the rockshaft in relation to the frame. The kit is no longer available as a kit, but all the parts are available individually. You can accomplish something similar by turning the rockshaft hangers upside down. It was the first couple years the 1850s were built that have the problem, although I'm not entirely sure that it was corrected by '97. You can determine if it has been corrected by looking at the rockshaft in relation to the frame -- This pic shows a drill that needs to have the rockshaft lowered: http://exapta.com/knowledge/images/tip_drill.gif |
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N IL | Here is some more pictures. Looking at the openers can you guys see if theses are original closeing wheel or not? Anything else that you can notice? I think I may see a few welds. I don't think it would have been used for fertilizer because they don't really do that around here but you never know.
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1850.jpg (69KB - 779 downloads)
1850-2.jpg (71KB - 757 downloads)
1850-3.jpg (66KB - 748 downloads)
1850-4.jpg (63KB - 752 downloads)
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| yes, those are the oem closing wheels. i updated to shoup, and have had no bearing trouble. make sure the disk and boots are in good shape. i spent 11k on my drill lastyear getting it up into shape. |
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N IL | Thanks again for all your help guys but I called the dealer and they sol it. He tried to sell me a Hiniker but I think those look cheap.
We found a 1690CCS so tomorrow I am going to call and see if it is sold.
Thanks again.
-Dave |
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John Deere 787/1850 air drills. Need help please.
