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Tie bolts on NH 1412 discbine
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69zfarmer
Posted 7/26/2015 12:41 (#4700297)
Subject: Tie bolts on NH 1412 discbine


North Central Alabama
I just got my discbine home and of course it needs a little TLC.One of the tie bolts in back that is between the disc modules is missing a nut and loose causing the cutterbar to sag alittle.
I am guessing they are 3/4" bolts.I am going to address that first thing.What would the torque be on them?
Is it possible that it has the shock pro hubs under the disc's?How do I tell?
In pic #3 you can see the hood is bent over the disc.Will this cause any trouble?

Edited by 69zfarmer 7/26/2015 12:45




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durallymax
Posted 7/26/2015 15:53 (#4700577 - in reply to #4700297)
Subject: RE: Tie bolts on NH 1412 discbine


Wi

Get the tie bolts from the dealer. You may need to borrow their tool, or buy/build your own. They have to be torqued to 600ft-lb.

Shock Pro hubs use taller caps than the standard ones. Hard to tell in your pictures, doesn't look like you have them. You could remove the cap & turtle, then the 12pt bolt and you will be able to see if it is a shock hub or not. Shock hub only has a few splines, standard has every spline. Make sure timing is right when you reinstall it and torque to 140-150ft-lbs IIRC. Been awhile.  If you have any rocks its worth converting. 



Edited by durallymax 7/26/2015 16:16
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RickB
Posted 7/26/2015 16:48 (#4700686 - in reply to #4700577)
Subject: RE: Tie bolts on NH 1412 discbine



Lincoln County. NC
Book spec is 50 ft/lb plus 1 full turn. Having done many I'll say that is a fair bit more than 600 ft/lbs. Or feels that way.
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mike10
Posted 7/26/2015 17:55 (#4700804 - in reply to #4700297)
Subject: RE: Tie bolts on NH 1412 discbine


Time to take the bar down from the frame. You need to separate the cutter bar at that module so you can clean the debris that is now between the spacer and module. If it has run like that it has also worn the splines on the connecting drive shaft and probably on the pinion in one of the modules. If you catch it in time a new drive shaft should be all you need.

The latest procedure on tightening the tie bolts is to oil the threads with 80-90 oil, torque to fifty pounds and then tighten the nuts another 5 flats instead of 6 flats which is a full turn, I split the difference and go 5 1/2 flats. The oil makes tightening the nuts much easier.

To remove the cutter bar, put a floor jack under each end, remove the four mounting bolts, two each side, and lower the bar. Check the wear on the mounting bolts and bearings on the cutter bar mounts the bolts go through. To much wear will cause the cutter bar to sag forward. What this does is open the gap between the anti wrap rings on the cutter bar drive shaft and the gearbox. This allows material to take out the seal causing a gearbox failure. The other thing that can happen with severly worn mounting bolts and bearings is the yoke attached to the gearbox shaft will not slide fast enough under a load and will push the gearbox output shaft up breaking the gearbox.

Unless someone put shear hubs on the mower it does not have them.

If the material feeds through alright I would not worry about the hood. I would like to know how that happened though.
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jessbob1
Posted 7/26/2015 20:17 (#4701146 - in reply to #4700297)
Subject: RE: Tie bolts on NH 1412 discbine


NWWI
If you had 1 bolt break now the rest are probably not too far behind look underneath by skid shoes if you see some oil residue you probably have mod seals/bearings going out. Tie bolts are around approx 40$ per mod, I think. Agree with above oil and 50 ft lb. and 5-6 flats mark bolt and nut to locate on both sides, so you know what's turning, the whole bolt, or just the nut .
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