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SE Wis | The foundation is the single most important part of any home so don't scrimp. Poured walls, 5000 psi concrete for footings and walls. 12"x24" footings, 9'x 10" thick walls. Let the footings set for at least 10 days before you set and pour the walls. at least 8" of 3/4" clear stone under the basement floor with 6mil vapor barrier, 1 or 2" foam insulation under the floor is optional, but give it some thought.
Place the 4" drain tile beside the footing not on top next to the wall, remember not all of the water comes from above and by putting the tile on top of the footing you may be raising the water table around the foundation by 4". If you have an opportunity to run the drain tile out to daylight, do it, even if it's quite a distance and make the tile from the corner of the foundation to the point of discharge non perforated. The idea is to remove the water from around the foundation, not he 6 or 8 feet either side of the tile running towards the side of the hill.
Try to use an I beam that will allow at least 16' between support columns with concrete pads at least 36" x 36" x 12" thick. Blanket the foundation with 1 1/2" pink or blue foam. Asphalt coating of the walls is optional, it's a good idea to tar over the tie connections, especially if they have been broken off. The asphalt is really only helpful for the first year or two while the water veins are being established in the backfill material beside the walls to promote drainage.
If you have access to inexpensive stone, backfill to a height of 4 to 5' around the entire foundation. The stone is 90% self supporting and it doesn't hold moisture the way clay soils do. Remember this to, wet soil of any kind and the lateral forces caused by frost penetration is responsible for more cracks in foundations then even improper backfilling.
I hope some of this help you. I was a contractor for thirty years and we poured hundreds of foundation and as much as 8000 yards of concrete per month. | |
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